I have a wolf 4.0 which has two hall effect sensors, I believe I damaged one of them. I talked to Chris, a dealer for wolf and it can take up to 2-3 weeks for a replacement. Does anybody know if that sensor is used for any other vehicle so I might be able to get it sooner.Thanks

 

i use a mostly stock CAS. I moved the magnet a little closer, and i ground off a few teeth =]]... i have 0 timing issues. no 8509 or anything, wolf v4

 

ps. expect some detailed information on my ignition setup in a few minutes. need to run to pep boys to get a coolant hose, then i'll take some pics of my CAS and such.

 

1 every 180, 1 every 90

 

top one isnt hooked up btw. only bottom. sorry bout bad shots best i could get

 

Looks like my V3.1 CAS. I did not think the V4 needed any CAS modifications. Or did you just use your old CAS because you had the V3.1 before?

 

I did it that way because we've seen less problems with interference and such that way especially at higher revs

 

Any chance you can do a 'how-to' for all us soon to be wolf owners

-Jacob

 

AFAIK, the new Wolf doesn't use the top wheel/pickup either, like my V3.1.

Modifying the CAS wheel is pretty straightforward. Remove the 2 screws that hold the wheel section in at the top (I had to use some heat). Then remove the pin from the CAS gear (the one that goes into the engine...). You should now be able to pull the whole thing out.

Then just use a dremel to cut the unused teeth off the wheel. Then smooth with sandpaper...

I removed the whole top wheel with a saw, then smoothed out the top on a Lathe.

 

So do you just grind all the teeth off the top wheel and just leave the buttom wheel the way it is? Alright I can do that. How about the wiring, because when I talked to Chris he mentioned something about switching a wire or something like that.

 

these pictures show 18 teeth ground off the bottom wheel and the top real unused/removed

 

So what ones are removed from the buttom one? How do you know which to remove?

 

Does it matter where we start removing the teeth? Does one of the single's or doubles have to line up with the key? or do we just remove them so we get a pair of apposing single teeth 90* offset from a pair of apposing double teeth as the image shows?

-Jacob

 

going clockwise its 2 teeth, 3 space, 1 tooth, 4 space, repeat

 

clockwise from what though? Does it matter where i start?, so i have to set the cas so it would be at TDC? BDC? etc?

-Jacob

 

The V4 is supposed work with the stock CAS. (Haltech can do it just fine). I wouldn't modify the CAS unless you had to.

The V3 required CAS modification, so I had no choice. I thought that crap would be over and done with the new version.

 

Have a 10th Annie TII running the stock CAS. /shrug
"No Runs no Drips No errors"
I called Chris IIRC and got the wiring diagram faxed to me for the hookup of the wiring IT IS NOT WHAT IS "STOCK" via the outdated manual we were shipped via Wolf AU.
I have 4.56 versions of the 4.x wolf BTW.
There was a seperate wire I had to hook up during the un-modified CAS mod.
I will try to locate the Fax etc when I get off work Thursday Afternoon. (I work 3 14 hour shifts over 3 days.. but 4 day weekend starting Thusday)

I have the old school modified CAS via Ron Foreman/Old wolf manual 3.X style in my 91 with my 3.0 Wolf in it. Yep I get a crank error once in a blue moon.. but I dont have the CAP in it either. But the wires are run decent.. so I dont have interference probs in this car or the last one.
I also have a CAS modified for the 20B.. little different.. but nice all the same. In the style of the 3.x wolfies.

 

Id be Very intreasted in seeing this

-Jacob

 

Ok, as you know, wolf will work with a dual pulse setup as you've most likely read the threads and seen a ground down CAS. There has been no real answer as how to configure it to use the stock CAS.

I'll be talking about s4/s5 since i dont remember tooth count of an s6 offhand. I think there are 12 teeth on it but it only makes one revolution so you should be able to use the same settings if this is correct.

Now, the stock cas has 24 teeth on the reference trigger, and 2 teeth on the sync trigger. The thing is, it takes 2 revolutions to turn the CAS 1.

Now, this can only be done through a laptop. And it has to be hooked up to the ecu to make all the options available.

First, you need to set the engine/ignition setup in the configuration to type 29. I'd do this on the hand controller since I don't know if doing it with the PC software will fill in all the values right. This is 2 rotor, inj2sec, ign2multi2seq 2 rotor 2+1 trigger poitns per shaft revolution, 2 seperate injector outputs, multi ignition coils.

Now, since this uses dual pulse with a ghost pulse, those with the ground down CAS can leave it at that.

But, since this isn't about that, you'd now need to fire up your laptop, and hook it up to a running wolf. Under Configuration -> Engine -> Trigger Sequencing you want to change Trigger Mode from Dual Pulse to Reference+Sync. Make sure the CAS is wired properly. the Reference pickup is the one with 24 teeth, the Sync has 2 teeth. If this is on an FD, 12 and 1 respectively.

Now, half the battle is over, but 3 options will appear if this is connected to an ecu. I'm not sure if youll have to disconnect and reconnect the software or not, or how it comes up, but I read they will not be available unless the Wolf is connected.

You will want Ref/Sync Mode to be 0. This is Multi Tooth reference. 1 is for Subaru crank/cam sensor.

You will want Trigger Ref/Sync Offset to be 0. This tells it that tooth 1 is right after the Sync tooth (0 skipped teeth).

You will want Trigger Ref/Sync Skip to be 5. This tells how many reference teeth to skip until the next ghost pulse (when rotor 2 is at TDC). It will skip 5 teeth between ghost teeth, so you get 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 .... so forth so on. I go back to one again even tho there are 24 teeth on the s4 reference, because it gets a Sync trigger right there. If it was an s6, it would get a sync because it would have completed a full revolution.

any questions?

 

you DO NOT NEED to modify your CAS with the 4.0, only the 3.1. I know this because ive had a version 4.0 in my car for a couple years now and it works just fine......


Graham

 

*laugh* glad people notice my posts.