Wolf 3D put put put.. spudder.. spudder *shrug*
#26
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Originally Posted by nyt
when you line up the dot and install it with the motor at TDC, the CAS is at either the sync or the dual pulse. there are no teeth skipped because tdc is right there, not 4 teeth away. if you install it before top dead center, then you start to use the offset.
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Sorry took so long to get back to this thread, im having a bunch of unrelated issues, making this take longer than i expected
Right now im using NYT's map with the offset set to 0, I havent had enought time to try to stablilze the idle, make sure 100% the CAS is zero'd, and try the exact same timming/fuel settings with the offset set to 4 so i cant say which way works better/is correct
Going way wolfems offtopic, is it common for an engine that hasnt been run in a while to smoke like a bastard when its let to warm up its first time. It was a thick white smoke, that didnt smell like anything
-Jacob
Right now im using NYT's map with the offset set to 0, I havent had enought time to try to stablilze the idle, make sure 100% the CAS is zero'd, and try the exact same timming/fuel settings with the offset set to 4 so i cant say which way works better/is correct
Going way wolfems offtopic, is it common for an engine that hasnt been run in a while to smoke like a bastard when its let to warm up its first time. It was a thick white smoke, that didnt smell like anything
-Jacob
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Little more follow up, I was running with the zero offest
So i tried setting offset to 4
Car idled the same, and had the same 14.9afr (what afr should i shoot for at idle. Im using your fuel and igntion maps to tune from , well before i start im going to richen them up a bunch, and work down )
So i tried setting offset to 4
Car idled the same, and had the same 14.9afr (what afr should i shoot for at idle. Im using your fuel and igntion maps to tune from , well before i start im going to richen them up a bunch, and work down )
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And that right there shows how diff motors really are. Ive got a stock port cosmo re, using your map got over 15:1afr's before i droped em down a bit
I will do the timming light thing tommorow, i dont have a light with a advance/retart function, and i cant get my motor to run at 0*, so i have to buy a good light. Tommorow will tell
-Jacob
I will do the timming light thing tommorow, i dont have a light with a advance/retart function, and i cant get my motor to run at 0*, so i have to buy a good light. Tommorow will tell
-Jacob
#34
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You don't need an advance timing light, or have the car running to zero the timing.
The way I set my timing, was to set the crank igntion timing to whatever number I wanted to check with the light. I'm my case I had a 10*BTDC timing mark. So I would set the cranking timing to that value, disable the fuel injectors and just crank and adjust until it was at the mark.
Does that make sense? Been drinking a lot of single malt scotch tonight...
The way I set my timing, was to set the crank igntion timing to whatever number I wanted to check with the light. I'm my case I had a 10*BTDC timing mark. So I would set the cranking timing to that value, disable the fuel injectors and just crank and adjust until it was at the mark.
Does that make sense? Been drinking a lot of single malt scotch tonight...
Last edited by eViLRotor; 01-22-05 at 01:18 AM.
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Originally Posted by nyt
wow my car wont even idle at 15:1, are you sure that is accuratE? what o2 sensor are you using?
Innovate's LM-1 and LMA-3 Kit.
Ill re-calibrate the o2 sensor before i run it next, i calibrated it not to long after i filled my shop with exhaust so it could be wrong
Originally Posted by eViLRotor
You don't need an advance timing light, or have the car running to zero the timing.
The way I set my timing, was to set the crank igntion timing to whatever number I wanted to check with the light. I'm my case I had a 10*BTDC timing mark. So I would set the cranking timing to that value, disable the fuel injectors and just crank and adjust until it was at the mark.
Does that make sense? Been drinking a lot of single malt scotch tonight...
The way I set my timing, was to set the crank igntion timing to whatever number I wanted to check with the light. I'm my case I had a 10*BTDC timing mark. So I would set the cranking timing to that value, disable the fuel injectors and just crank and adjust until it was at the mark.
Does that make sense? Been drinking a lot of single malt scotch tonight...
Im pretty sure i understand. In the case of my V4, id set starting ing timming to whatever i wanted, i could set it to whatever the stock mark for L1 is, crank it over with no fuel and check with the light i have now. Sounds good to me
-Jacob
#36
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Wierd so your car actually runs set at 0. Mine wont even start like that, just backfire and signal errors start counting. I set my idle to 12.8/1 AFR, nice idle, very smooth. Try backing it down to 12 advanced instead of 45 and see if it cleans up, mine sure did.
Ahh yea I wanted to ask you if you got your trailing going with that bosch ignitor. I just picked up the plug from porsche yesterday, so I'll be hooking it up soon.
Ahh yea I wanted to ask you if you got your trailing going with that bosch ignitor. I just picked up the plug from porsche yesterday, so I'll be hooking it up soon.
#37
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i dont think his car is actually idling at that high AFR. Any car i lean out past 13.x starts sputtering and dies out. and i dont think i've posted a map with 45 degree advance for anyone to actually use so I doubt hes running 45.
as evilrotor said, if you can mark your crank pulley with different timing marks (i know the racing beat pulley has a variety of them on there, youre not limited to having to lock your timing at -5 which can often prove to be a pain in the ***).
as evilrotor said, if you can mark your crank pulley with different timing marks (i know the racing beat pulley has a variety of them on there, youre not limited to having to lock your timing at -5 which can often prove to be a pain in the ***).
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in excess of $100, the closest one i could find was 150ish, and wasnt even the correct one
Do you have wiring diagram's for the FD ignitor? if so, how much does an FD ignitor go for?
-Jacob
Do you have wiring diagram's for the FD ignitor? if so, how much does an FD ignitor go for?
-Jacob
#41
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you can find fd igniters easy.. put a WTB up in the sale sections. they dont go for much. and yeah, i have a wiring diagram somewhere.. if not i can just tell you how i have mine wired up
it controlls the leading and the trailing coils fine. i use the msd 6a as amplification on the leading. romeo has his car setup the same way, he runs mid 9s at well over 30psi of boost. its definitely more than enough ignition =]
it controlls the leading and the trailing coils fine. i use the msd 6a as amplification on the leading. romeo has his car setup the same way, he runs mid 9s at well over 30psi of boost. its definitely more than enough ignition =]
#42
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Yea you can probably find a used for one cheap, but if you want brand new... be ready to pay around $400. I payed $150 for my bosch igniter, and it was $10 for a plug from porsche. They use them in the porsche 911 and its made by bosch, that alone just says enough about the quality. Motec actually also recommends these igniters in their setup.
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Alrighty, i just got an ignitor for $30 shipped, so if ya get some time if you could shoot me the wiring for the ignitor it would be greatly appreciated
-Jacob
-Jacob
#44
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ill post the info tomorrow..
when i wired mine up either the haltech wiring diagram was wrong or the FSM was wrong and i dont remember which. ill check on my car and post it up tomorrow... ill have to dig my car out tomorrow after work, theres at least a foot of snow burying it =[
when i wired mine up either the haltech wiring diagram was wrong or the FSM was wrong and i dont remember which. ill check on my car and post it up tomorrow... ill have to dig my car out tomorrow after work, theres at least a foot of snow burying it =[
#47
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ok, hope you appreciate this.. had to dig through feet of snow to get to m car / get my hood open.. my feet are gonna be wet all day at work now =[
anyway, this is looking at it with the pins on the igniter facing up, looking at the top side of it. Pins from left to right. This matches up with the diagram on page G-16 of the FSM. Make sure you have the connector from the FD harness with the igniter also.
PIN 1 - Trailing Wolf (T1)
PIN 2 - To Trailing Coil (T1)
PIN 3 - Trailing Wolf (T2)
PIN 4 - 12V IN (switched)
PIN 5 - To Trailing Coil (T2)
PIN 6 - Leading Wolf
PIN 7 - To Leading Coil
PIN 8 - Unused (bridged to pin 7 inside the igniter)
from the FSM.
anyway, this is looking at it with the pins on the igniter facing up, looking at the top side of it. Pins from left to right. This matches up with the diagram on page G-16 of the FSM. Make sure you have the connector from the FD harness with the igniter also.
PIN 1 - Trailing Wolf (T1)
PIN 2 - To Trailing Coil (T1)
PIN 3 - Trailing Wolf (T2)
PIN 4 - 12V IN (switched)
PIN 5 - To Trailing Coil (T2)
PIN 6 - Leading Wolf
PIN 7 - To Leading Coil
PIN 8 - Unused (bridged to pin 7 inside the igniter)
from the FSM.
Last edited by nyt; 01-25-05 at 12:20 PM.
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Crackhedmel
There are 2 reasons you may be reading 14.5 at idle and have a good idle.
1: You have your emissions hooked up and its adding air into the system and thus gives you the perfect reading (this happens onf FD's too).
2: Your wideband is miss calibrated
Usually the perfect idle is at 12.5 or so WITHOUT any air pumps or anything to affect the reading. If you air pump was connected, you would probably see 14.5 at the sensor even though the motor is actually at about 12.5.
I hope your car is running decent now....
There are 2 reasons you may be reading 14.5 at idle and have a good idle.
1: You have your emissions hooked up and its adding air into the system and thus gives you the perfect reading (this happens onf FD's too).
2: Your wideband is miss calibrated
Usually the perfect idle is at 12.5 or so WITHOUT any air pumps or anything to affect the reading. If you air pump was connected, you would probably see 14.5 at the sensor even though the motor is actually at about 12.5.
I hope your car is running decent now....
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Lol... its not my air pump. i have no emmission's equipment
Alright, i finished up my exhaust today (onlky thing i had left) and went back to trying to get the car running.
Now its very hesitant to start. I adjusted fuel and ignition in both directions trying to get it running. It would fire but rarly enough to start. I did manage to get it running good once. I changed my offset from 0 to 4 and it started up and sounded great. almost held an idle. then 10sec later, just died. Couldnt get anything for a while, just before i called it quits and left my starter to cool i was getting it to miss again however no start with the offset set either way
Also with the offset set to 4 i stoped getting the error count on my laptop.
Alright, i finished up my exhaust today (onlky thing i had left) and went back to trying to get the car running.
Now its very hesitant to start. I adjusted fuel and ignition in both directions trying to get it running. It would fire but rarly enough to start. I did manage to get it running good once. I changed my offset from 0 to 4 and it started up and sounded great. almost held an idle. then 10sec later, just died. Couldnt get anything for a while, just before i called it quits and left my starter to cool i was getting it to miss again however no start with the offset set either way
Also with the offset set to 4 i stoped getting the error count on my laptop.
Last edited by CrackHeadMel; 01-27-05 at 03:59 PM.