Here is my pitch - since we (the wolf group here) do not have a thread trying to explain the basics with Wolf and a map build from the ground up - i thought we could take some time to do that.

I've got an FD which needs to be tuned and will by Ari next month but before we can fly, we need to learn to crawl.

This is what I've got in mind:
I'd like to start a thread which should provide a basic understanding and info on creating a timing & fuel safe map given proper tools (like a wbo2, laptop/hand-held) to enable us to move our cars from the shop/house to a trailer or do street tuning.

I'd like to offer my car as a base for this community effort.
my mods are (short version):
stock ignition
twin denso/supra pumps
AN6 lines
860cc primaries & 1680cc secondaries
Greddy T88H turbo w/ manifold, 50mm GReddy w/g
rotarywarehouse.com stage4 engine
Exedy triple disc clutch


So let's get together and teach one another how we'd go about creating a base map for our car..
...btw - i'm not looking for a hand out - my car will move on its own power.

 

First thing I'd like to start looking at would be the Wolf3D setup for these mods;

- How do we know how much startup fuel we need?
- What defines base timing for initial startup?
- Does premixing have any affect on W/B o2 sensor readings?

Configuring the base map for initial startup is something i think we all could benefit from. Anyone care to share what they know on the subject?

 

- What about zeroing the sensors?
- Do they need calibrating at all?

 

answers above, most of that depends on injectors.

 

the intake temp sensor that comes with wolf I'm pretty sure has an accurate map in the unit.

The water sensor is way off if you get the bosch m12 (blue plastic) with the wolf. I have a post on this.

 

my car with 550's starts with 'starting fuel' around 7.5ms

nyt' got the timming, however my experience has let me always try around 14*, my car currently usses 14deg as well

 

zeroing the sensors would be very important, unless you for some reason want to work with wrong numbers. I'm having a problem zeroing the TPS on my wolf unit, seeing if we can work this out or move to another ECU since my tuner is not familiar with the wolf.

My TPS when zeroed will have a jumpy injector duty, jumping from 0% to 6%/7%. With a non zeroed TPS i get constant 6%-7% injector duty. As a result of that jumping the idle is lumpy, and bounces around. I'm not exactly sure if its the wolf or the TPS, i haven't had time to mess with my car in ages.

There is also an article about zeroing the timing in the archives, if you search.
May i ask why we don't have a wolf archive section?

 

can you explain more about the issue with it zero'd? my tps is .9v - 0% and 4.9v = 100% (yours will prob be diff) but my tps doesnt cause a jumpy duty cycle

 

Thanks for the answers nyt;

I know we could simply add fuel until the car stars but - there must be some logical behind matching the injectors to the settings in wolf.

for example, i wouldn't use the same settings for 2100cc injectors as i would for 550cc injectors as opening them up for the same amount of milliseconds results in different disbursements of fuel.

what i'm trying to do is help us all understand those equations/calculations before trying the "trial and error" route on initial startup.

 

all motors are different, you need to find what works for starting. You also cant expect the same results from every fuel system, battery, etc as well. You just gotta go with what works. Also the temperature / cold start settings will come into play, so just because my starting ms is set to 5.5, it doesnt mean it will actually be 5.5 when i start it. I also use the initial fuel pulse addon, I don't recall what its set at, but you can easily check my maps and see. My temperature correction tables in my maps seem to be working pretty well, feel free to copy anything you want out of them. The ignition maps may prove helpful as well as they're youre basic boosted map. http://countercultured.net/maps/latest.wmf

as for your tps issue, make sure all your connections to the TPS are clean and its wired in right. What you can do (which I had to do, due to either vibrations, or an old TPS) was change the voltages for min and max on the tps to give it a little head room. This will make it so it doesnt see the first LITTLEST bit of throttle and will think its floored a little before it is

go ahead and add .1 or .2 (subtract from the max) and see if it fixes your issue.

 

before attempting to start the car for the first time, should be rethink the type of sensors that we're using (coolant, map,etc)? i know wolf doesn't work with all our sensors right out of the box.

is anyone interested in posting screen shots of Wolf3Dv4 on changing the TPS sensor voltage? if needed I'll provide the hosting space;

 

what excatly do you want? a screenshot of the software screen where you change the voltage?

 

I've got some digging around to do - when i'm done, i should be able to answer a lot of the questions i have with wolf and will post what i've learned.

 

you can set tps voltage on the hand controller... its in the menu that you hold down clear to get in

 

i lowered the closed tps voltage by .4 which gives me a tps reading of 3-5. The car has a constant duty cycle now of 5% but if i were to raise the voltage so the tps reads 0, i get that lumpy/jumpy duty cycle.

I'm thinking the timing's real badly off. Anyone know of the basic procedure to set timing?

 

do you have an fc or fd?

i have an FC, so what i did was

backed up my map, then set my timming at 2-3k all to zero, got the car running, held it around 2-3k and just used a normal timming light to check if i was on my custom mark which was set at what should be zero deg advanced

an FC main pully is 360mm around, so i just measured 5mm off the leading mark (which is -5* iirc, been a while) and scribed my own mark, you could make a mark for whatever you want, i thought that zero would be the best, just because, its well zero

 

I have an FD, and we were able to 0 out the timing tonight, wasn't expecting to work on the car, so i didn't bring my laptop. Had to 0 the timing on rpms 750-2000 on the hand controller.

Starts up a lot easier then with it un-zeroed. i believe my trigger BTDC was set at 42 or so, after it being zeroed it was 16 or so. finally moving in a positive direction. car starts up so much easier

 

*boggle* i'd be careful of that. FD's have fix CAS sensor. they shoudln't move more than a couple of degrees past 41 or so.

maybe you set your timing to the trailing mark or something, or had something wrong. that does not sound right to me.

 

i'm no pro mechanic, so i might be describing it wrong, but i meant the trigger setting on the wolf was at 41, when zeroed it was at 16.

I was trying to read the your post on zeroing the wolf, but i only took in half of the info, and the other half was jibberish to me. hahah

 

yeah, that shouldn't be changed much past 41 on an s6. you did something wrong

 

it was what was on the generic map that was already on there, i never really got around playing with the wolf, still working things out slowly