Ok this is my problem I've finished my swap JDM S5 Turbo in a S4 Vert. She's been runnin rich as hell then figured it was the TPS couldnt get it adjusted right then got it as close as I could. Comin from school Thursday. It started buckin like crazys pulled in the gas station at 9:30 PM. It was runnin on one Rotor I guess but it was poppin flame throught the cat when I parked it at a friends house. Check the the Plugs wire are still good. She has been flooding since I did the swap. I'm runnin Premix, I'm wondering cause I put some gas in about 15 bucks and I might have put to much premix and clogged it, but I'm not sure. Could it be a Bad Coil, Dead injectors or something bad bad... She starts up like normal, stumbles on low and mid end wont go past 6k right. When I check the car the next morning the exhaust was White in the pipe. It was acting like I blew the cat but it was all intact. I'm at school and have no internet at my friends house. need help TODAY before 5 pm thanks so I can get her back on the road.
S4 wiring harness
Stock S4 Vert ECU 338
Everything is S4 T2
MAF 318
Boost sensor 318
S5 Injectors 550cc all 4 stock.
Mods S5 Engine
F5 Fujita Air filter
2 1/2 Down pipe
FD Fuel pump
and 3" 5 zigan exhaust.

 

Fouled a plug from rich mix? Easiest thing to check.

 

changed plugs and that was not the problem. no power even after I took off my cat and put on my Resonator.

 

Didn't know you could use an NA ECU with a turbo...

 

^^ me either

 

It's a Vert!!!

 

all verts (FC3C) sold in the US were all N/A. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't a turbo motor need a turbo ECU? I mean the fuel maps amongst other things differ from N/A to TII. That's probably your main problem there.

 

If its turbo you need turbo ecu,you might be running lean under boost.best thing to do is to check compression on engine,least that will tell you if motors dead or still good.

 

ok will do again...
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html

 

For some reason the Vert ECU's can be used in place of the S4 turbo N332? ECU's, that part's fine.
Get yourself a T2 ECU though as soon as you can as IIRC the vert ECU works for a stock T2 but doesn't really have the capability to support boost and timing adjustments especially now that you are easily hitting 10-13 pounds of boost.

What doesn't work is S5 high impedence injectors and S4 low impedence wiring and ECU. You need S4 low impedence injectors.

There should be a resistor pack located somewhere near the front passenger side headlight underneath the air box, if you have that then you definately need S4 low impedence injectors. If you bypassed it then the S5 injectors should work fine.

Somewhere there's a thread about how to bypass the resistor pack to run high impedence injectors, low impedence are better compared to high impedence by far though. Less heat from the low impedence = longer life for the fuel injectors.

You should have a quality aftermarket boost gauge hooked up, what is the boost level when you are hitting that cutting point?

Stock ECU shuts off the spark at a certain boost and/or RPM limit to the rear rotor.
Been awhile so I don't remember if it's boost level and RPM but I bet that's your issue as you have a free flowing intake and exhaust that easily bumps the boost to 12 PSI.


Where are you located?

 

My 88 Vert came from the factory with High impedence injectors. Thats the reason I was wondering if I clogged my injectors with the Premix. She still runs rich and sounds like it's runnin on one rotor when I find my SD adapter i'll load the video of the sound and the stupid problems I've had.

 

So your running a non-turbo wiring harness on a turbo engine?
You should have swapped all of your sensors over to turbo sensors including idle adjustment and all the other little goodies as they are different IIRC.

Could just be a dirty injector or you could have blown the rear rotor from too much boost using a non-turbo ECU to try to control timing and fuel.

You should have a quality aftermarket boost gauge hooked up, what is/was the boost level when you are hitting that bucking point?

Stock ECU shuts off the spark at a certain boost and/or RPM limit to the rear rotor.
Been a while so I don't remember if it's boost level and RPM but I bet that's your issue as you have a free flowing intake and exhaust that easily bumps the boost to 12 PSI.


Where are you located?

 

My car wouldnt go past 8 lbs of boost on my boost gauge and I never took it past 7,500 except when my throttle cable got stuck cause my stopper bracket came loose on my throttle body and it bounced at 8000. That was for about 90 seconds completely the whole time it happened.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/ecutype.html
This is the reason I didnt get a 333 ecu, I've read other forums and post sayin it was ok to run the ecu. I've studied this swap since I got my car 8/18/08. I paid for it in July and looked up for everything I needed for it. I did the same when I was building my Subaru before I spun a bearing and put the money for my EJ208 JDM Legacy engine as a down payment for my car. So I do study the ins and outs and search before I just do things to my car.

 

Ok? but how do YOU know it's safe to use a non-turbo ECU that is mapped out for a non-turbo? I know that info is on teamfc3s, but just because it's posted there doesn't mean that the ECU is properly mapped for the fuel and especially the timing curve that your turbo engine need's in the higher RPM's.

Have you somehow looked up the fuel and timing tables and verified they are ok to use for a turbo engine?

I've never seen any definate answer's with fuel and timing table comparisons of the vert ECU vs. a T2 ECU so I myself would never trust one to run a turbo engine, let alone a rotary turbo engine that is very delicate when it come's to fuel and timing.

I can go take a non-turbo N336 ECU and make it start and run an S4 T2 engine but it isn't going to be the correct mapping to allow it to run correctly past idle...

Why not do it the correct way and get yourself an S4 T2 wire harness and ECU and avoid the headache's of hacking and splicing the non-turbo harness to somewhat work.


Basic's :
Fouled plugs
Low or no compression
No fuel due to dirty fuel injectors
Dirty fuel filter/filters ( I've seen rusty FC tanks allowing rust to clog the pick up filter)

The always rich issue is your main problem, if it's been running extremely rich ( more than any normal FC ) I don't see why it isn't possible to fuel wash the rotor housings just like on a piston engine causing low compression thus running on one rotor. Could also clog and kill the cat converter with an overly rich mixture as well.

That's all that I can think of at the moment as diagnosing over the internet is just like one of my customers calling me on the phone and asking what this strange noise is that theyre hearing and want the answer right there over the phone without having to bring it in...

 

Thanks Apex I did the poor mans compression test about 30 minutes ago and the front rotor has damn near no compression. Small puffs from both of the spark plug holes, while the rear is strong and sounding like a Train startin to take off. I have to figure out what to do now cause my money just got cut off and I'm a student. This should now be interesting on how I'm goin to have to try to work this...
I'm in Lake Elsinore right now with my car...

 

Find a good running S4 non-turbo engine and stick it in the car and store the turbo part's away ( or better yet sell them to pay for the non-turbo S4 engine ) for a time when you actually have the money to build a T2 and skip the non-turbo spliced to turbo mess altogether.

Simple fix right there

Allows you to keep your FC, or the even cheaper and probably better route for you would be to do the swap back to non-turbo and sell all of it and buy a nice cheap to maintain and repair car since your in school and pickup a turbo FC later on after school.