^^ lmao... steve is looking right at you!

 

Why would you think that? The most powerful LS1 T/As, Camaros, Firebirds produced (2002) had 325 Hp (flywheel). So, to get 350 RWHP via CAI, exhaust, pullies, & tuning is actually pretty impressive. I just don't understand why people bother with an engine transplant when a properly modded stock twin car puts out just as much if not more power. To each his own I guess.

-Matt

 

i think most people do the swaps for reliability purposes...

 

i was wondering when steve tunes your car did any of you guys have datalogit with your pfcs or did he just tune cars with pfcs and commanders?

 

Installing silicone hoses, a bigger radiatior, & a proper tune is much easier than an entire piston engine transplant?

-Matt

 

Makes no sense for him to charge people but come unequipped. He had his own laptop and datalogit for the PFC and also brought along cable/software for any other specified ecu.

 

thanks for answering my question. one more question, since most tuners have datalogit are the peple that actually get datalogit those that want to do some fine tuning by themselves. when i had an mr2 i had a pfc and datalogit since most tuners did not have datalogit and could only tune your car if you provided datalogit yourself.

 

you must of went to some tuner that doesn't specialize in either MR2 or doesn't do a lot of PFC.

 

man, I really wanted to come watch but I was in Asia this past week. >< Looks good.

 

F body LS1s is rated at 325hp so it can be under Corvettes 350hp rating so the LS1 is very under tuned in stock smog legal form. The inital buy in is expensive especially if the car already has a heathy 13B in it. But the reliability is unbeatable. My motor has a used $150 cam, $150 for new valve springs, $90 mail in order guess ECU tune, and $250 home made headers and it put out 398 whp with 11.5/1 AF. When it was a street car it gets 27mpg on highway all day long with 87 octane. It has been through 15-20 track days and competitions, over heated twice, and mis-shift to over 7,700rpm and all it asks for is gasoline. The power curve is so linear and easy to control you really need to drive one to get an idea. I could have stayed with 13B and get the same hp from the money saved of not doing a LSX swap, but I am just sick of garage kings that can not take the abuse of the way I needed it to hold up.

 

Properly tuned & modded 13Bs are not garage kings. People blow their rotaries up because they don't mod properly (ie silicone hose swap, larger radiator & IC).

I've tracked my R1 at Seca many times - runs like a champ.

Rotaries don't get 27 mpg but I don't drive my R1 like Grandma (and I'm betting most people who have done V8 swaps don't either). Who really cares about gas mileage in a 400 rwhp sports car anyway? (I sure as heck don't!)

-Matt

 

you still cant compare the reliability of a rotary motor and a piston motor... if you properly mod, and take car of a rotary as well as a piston motor, the rotary motor will last just as long as the piston engine?? I'm not favoring v8's and surely aint ragging on rotaries, because i obviously cherrish mine... but just giving credit where it's deserved to be.

 

No, I don't agree. I put 130k miles on my '88 modded Turbo II when I sold it in 2005 & it was still running very strong. That is SEVENTEEN YEARS & still going strong. I don't know what you are looking for but that is pretty strong in my book.

If you change the oil every 1.5k miles (its a hassle, but the #1 most important factor in keeping compression due to gasoline braking down the oil), the engines will last a LONG time. My brother has been built & ported over 1,000 12As & 13Bs over the last 25 years for people (its a hobby for him). In nearly every case, a blown engine come in because some idiot modded the car improperly (got to too lean via intake or exhaust mods & "Kaboom").

You blow a motor, its your own fault. Change the oil, don't let the car overheat (ie increase radiator & IC efficiency), & do a silicone hose job (for turbo rotaries) & it will last as long as a piston motor. My 2 cars are proof of it (as are many others on this forum).

-Matt

 

of course it's possible for a rotary engine to last over 100k on it... my 90 GTU was 155k with a strong engine as well, so i dont doubt your experience... but if you want to compare mileage, my Uncle has his 91 Toyota pick-up that's on 600k mi on it, i **** you not... i can take pictures then next time i go visit him... i've even seen some rotaries over 200k mi on it with no smoking whatsoever, but you only pass that once in a blue moon... but how many piston engine's you see over 200k mi and still running perfectly fine?? plenty! like i said earlier, im not raggin on the rotaries, i love em, they're amazing... but i'm just giving credit where it's deserved to be.

 

OK, you win. No rotary is going to last 600k miles. I don't see anyone keeping a car or engine that long, BUT.....you are right nontheless - the springs will get tired & you will lose compression over time (but I'm betting the piston motor isn't operating at stock specs either ).

-Matt

 

probably... havnt seen my uncle for awhile... anyways, i've seen your car couple times when i was on the freeway for work...it's one clean ride... i wouldve waived, but i was in my Comcast van and you's prolly think i was some madman...

 

Well thanks, that was nice. Wave next time, I'll give ya a thumbs up!

Cheers,
-Matt

 

 

Show me your RWHP figure from your Laguna Seca car then you will sound more convising to me. Ofcourse a 150hp NA motor will last, I had a 230RWHP bridge port and I was AMAZED of how much beating it took. NA rotaries are great but when I need 400 plus RWHP LS1 is a much better packge. Ok just in case we get into "well a 13B has been knowen to make 600 plus" argument, what kind of $ do you think is needed to get a 400 plus out of 13B with less torque then LS1 with about same HP?

 

. . . . . .

Another thread taken by the LS1>Rotary debate.

 

My Seca car is my Daily Driver - its in my SIG.

Putting a single on a 13B is easily good for 550+ rwhp/400 rwtq (and its reliability is INCREASED over stock twins (my set up)). Its a whopping $3k over my existing set up (basically the Turbo). That is significantly more power (and torque) than any N/A LS1. Period.

My brother & I have been building/porting 12A & 13B power plants for over 25 yrs on over 1,000 blocks (not one has come back). I know EXACTLY what I am talking about.

I don't know what happened to your motor, but it sounds to me like you didn't race prep your car (assuming you know what that involves - pls elaborate what you did to track prep your vehicle).

Additionally, I have not seen a N/A LS1 put out more power than my 405 rwhp. Assuming someone does, it ain't going to be by much - especially to offset an additional 25 lbs or so over a twin car set up (& ~ 70 lbs for a Single set up).

-Matt

 

heres one of my videos, the LS1 FD only put down like 350 WHP or so
Click here to see Video

 

13b > Ls1

 

Yup.

-Matt