Overheating Problems!
#26
+1 for coolant seals.... sorry dude. my 1st motor went the same direction. and running no t-stat is just dumb. you can just keep adding coolant for now but it gets expensive especially with summer right here.
GL with it. oh and if you rebuild it. Rotary Aviation Super Coolant Seals FTW!
GL with it. oh and if you rebuild it. Rotary Aviation Super Coolant Seals FTW!
#27
In most of these threads people say coolant seals but it usually isn't. Plus it would have shown up after a bad overheat or gradually over time. www.aaroncake.net has more info on diagnosing this and other cooling system problems. Gotta do that anyway even if it is the coolant seals so you can verify before you get a new engine.
The t-stat is the most common cause by far, so remove or replace that with an OEM one (from a Mazda dealer, www.mazdatrix.com or www.rx7.com) just for kicks even if you're not sure. Even if the last one is a brand new aftermarket (from auto parts store) those cheap POSs can worsen flow, plus they can fail at any time no matter how new. And yeah you can run without one to test things out and cooling performance would be worsened a little and you'll take longer to warm up but it's no big deal. Compared to replacing your engine or even a lesser part while trying to find out what's going on that's nothing.
Another possible minor cause would be over filling the reservoir. Make sure you only fill it to "full" which is about 1/4 of the way up. A rising temp gauge doesn't mean your car is hosed if it's a slow rise. It takes 7/8 to overheat. Even 3/4 could be done for a very long time, though it's probably not the greatest thing to do. If that turns out to be the case then I can point you to some more minor causes to address when you get around to it (not urgent).
And next time post in the 2nd gen tech section, you'll get more and better replies.
The t-stat is the most common cause by far, so remove or replace that with an OEM one (from a Mazda dealer, www.mazdatrix.com or www.rx7.com) just for kicks even if you're not sure. Even if the last one is a brand new aftermarket (from auto parts store) those cheap POSs can worsen flow, plus they can fail at any time no matter how new. And yeah you can run without one to test things out and cooling performance would be worsened a little and you'll take longer to warm up but it's no big deal. Compared to replacing your engine or even a lesser part while trying to find out what's going on that's nothing.
Another possible minor cause would be over filling the reservoir. Make sure you only fill it to "full" which is about 1/4 of the way up. A rising temp gauge doesn't mean your car is hosed if it's a slow rise. It takes 7/8 to overheat. Even 3/4 could be done for a very long time, though it's probably not the greatest thing to do. If that turns out to be the case then I can point you to some more minor causes to address when you get around to it (not urgent).
And next time post in the 2nd gen tech section, you'll get more and better replies.
#28
Oh yeah, if you just flushed your system then you refilled it through the pressure cap. In that case whenever you fill through the pressure cap I'd even fill the reservoir only up to the "empty" line or drain some later, because some of the coolant you added through the pressure cap will move to the reservoir.
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