i'm not trying to be a stickler however, if you get a wrx or a Genesis Coupe wont your monthlys be like $250 or 300 anyways? (i dont know your credit score and im sure the 8k down payment would soften that) however, i think that monthly car note can contribute to a rebuild. it sounds like you just want some bomb a$$ to drive.. in the mean time for the build get a cheap DD that under a g untill the rebuild is done.. we are talking how long here 4-5 months? i think that would worth the wait if you REALLY dont wanna get rid of that saaweeeet FD.. just my 2 cents


Bunta.

 

ya man, id stick with the fd(especially yours) just get a DD for now and get your motor built to your specs.

but if you really want to sell GL =(

 

where is the FS thread?

 

trade you my fb.

hurry freaking willow with the rebuilt lol

once is done, believe me, is going to be a freaking quick beast, hot looking, reliable. this is a fd you talking about, yes? let me know, bro.

 

sti ftw!

 

I dont need to post a thread about the car being for sale. Alot of people know me and have seen my car. Just PM me like people have been doing if your interested.
No STi or WRX.. my shop specializes in them..and thats all I see. Thats why I went for my FD.
Genesis Coupe would be 400 a month...yikes...but with a 5 year warranty and I'd pick up immediate sponsors. If I have to rebuild it'll set me back cause I already have multiple companies wanting to sponsor my car for the track. *sigh* decisions decisions.

My car is drive-able though. I drive it every day to work & around town. I get white smoke with coolant smell hit & miss...this morning.. Nothing.

 

^^
question.. if you are sponsored, wouldn't that pay for the rebuild?

 

hmmm no thread, gonna be hard to sell.. i was just curious, wanted to see pics, an FD with a blown motor for 8k must be hooked up otherwise...

 

Sexually Transmitted Infections?

 

This is a perfect DIY candidate, if you're got the space. Low milage and otheriwise functioning well means that, if you get to it right away, you're likely only going to need soft seals, few if no hard parts. Few hundred bucks and a few nights' work. Mileage that low, you could probably put the original hard seals back in it and get another 50k out of it. During which time you could slowly fund and build a beaast motor for it.

If you're mechanical by nature, there's nothing hard about doing a seals-only rebuild. Simpler than a top-end rebuild on a piston engine, IMO. Hardest part is getting it out and back in.

No guarantees in life, but if it were my car, I'd take the gamble... My first rebuild I did was because I couldn't afford to replace the car or have the work done. Went flawlessly.

 

If you've ever dealt with sponsors in the automotive industry. They don't give you money or a set budget to modify your car. They don't give you free cars. Or free products. They give you products at cost pricing, discounted, etc and in return you have to fulfill contracted obligations. If your referring to being sponsored by a SHOP then that shop that specializes in rebuilds would do it..if not for free (as their home vehicle) at a discounted rate. My car is a shop car and we do have experience with rotary's however as we are a large shop with alot going on my vehicle is not a priority and even then it'd still be some cash.

 

That's what you get for not having it inspected before buying or getting yourself a buyer's guide. Even a piston engine mechanic would have thought you had a blown headgasket.

It's easy to prevent as long as you follow the recommended cooling system maintenance schedule, or more frequent, and never overheat the engine. And even that takes a major overheat with boiling coolant where you just keep driving instead of pulling over within 30 seconds and turning your car off. Don't worry about it happening on the next engine as long as you do what I mentioned. Lucky 7, Mazdatrix and Racing Beat are all highly reputable rebuilders. Go for it man.

 

Drop an LS1 in and don't look back.

Naturally I'm biased but I think there's a reason for that.

 

^no JOEL!! stop converting every one hahaha

 

It's because you're secretly hoarding all those removed rotaries, expecting to make a killing on selling them for parts some day, isn't it?

ISN'T IT!!?!?!

 

rebuild it we have the technology. Stay with 2mm seals unless your tolerances are totally wacked and you need 3mm. The 3mm will chatter the hell out of your housings. Heaven forbid way later down the road you need another rebuild you’ll need new housings. Keep it love it and build something you can be proud of and know it will be a long time before you have to do it again.

 

With all of the positive PM's and comments. I keep leaning more and more to keeping it and having it rebuilt. However today alone I've received 3 PM's about buying my FD. Hmm
*NOTE I HAVE A BLACK FD FOR SALE IN THE FS SECTION FOR A FRIEND THAT'S PERFECTLY FINE*

 

^ Heh, I bet you'ved guessed why they want to buy it.

Take care of the turbo too then. In the turbo RX-7's blown engines due to detonation are at least as common as blown coolant seals. The difference is while cooling system maintenance is fairly straightforward, in the 3rd gen the turbo system is so complicated that most non-rotary mechanics just give up. aaroncake says the twin-turbo system was designed by the devil himself. I'm guessing this is the #1 reason the pro-V8 swap ppl are far more common in the 3rd gen forums than the other sections. IIRC silicone vacuum hoses and watching a boost gauge helps, plus never do any upgrades without re-tuning it. The 3rd gen forums & owners can give you better info than I can on this. I'm in a 2nd gen NA myself so with us cooling is our only concern. FWIW most 3rd gen engines still get to ~125k according to the FAQ so don't get too scared.

 

Having similar problems but when i try and start the back reeks of gas and i get white smoke and it will not start i have tried to deflood it 3 times and the same result everytime! is it done?

 

Sell it to me. I'll take good care of it and keep it rotary.

 

Did your car previously overheat? (mine didnt).

Pull your plugs and see if they are wet from coolant.

and sometimes some FD's flood REALLY BAD. Do the pull the EGI fuse and crank 7 times for 10-15 seconds with the spark plugs out. Clean the plugs...put it back in and put the fuse back in...with a jump start... start your car. ONLY IF YOURS IS FLOODED BAD. Thats happened to me before in the past.

 

PM me the price that fits your & fris' "budget". Because currently I plan on keeping the car (*background rx7 club yelling* yay!!!) and probably going to take it to Fris. But again if the price is right.

 

Check your compression, motors with low or bad compression will flood. Low compression = rebuild.

Compression, spark, fuel = running. you know you are getting spark and fuel so...

 

x2

 

Of course your going to have problem after problem with an FD, it's an FD. that's how the rotary gods deem you worthy of ownership. failure after failure until you've replaced everything in and out of the damn thing. this way you get a whole new car when your done, what a great system!!!!