I need a mechanic to double check my FD and it's airbag light. Could be a malfunction in my air bag system. Also, I'm looking for a mechanic or shop to rebuild my rotary and install it. Any reputable shops here in socal that I can go to? thanks for the help!

 

www.rotaryracing.com

Rotary reliabilty and racing. Been around for ever, awesome rep. They are in santa ana.

 

I'm a fan of RnR rotary in Upland.

909-593-8080 ask for Steve and tell him Elliot from San Diego sent you.

 

Mazdatrix in Signal Hill/Long Beach is good. www.mazdatrix.com

 

RRR aka Rotary Reliability and Racing are great mechanics and cool guys tell them Kevin sent you

 

here we go again...

 

Where are you located?

If you are in the San Fernando Valley check out J&G Automotive. Good work, fair prices.

J&G Auto
818 957 7530

 

nope. not a single one. you're completely out of luck. then again, there's a cool little button at the top right of your screen that would get you all the answers you could want.

 

I realized, however, some of the posts were old so I wanted something more updated.

 

lol everyone that posted named a different shop...

 

forgot to mention rotary power

 

Tripoint Engineering in Gardena will do it for you.... for quite a price tag however

 

thing with shops like mazdatrix is if you're on any sort of a budget whatsoever they're gonna stick their noses up in the air and act like they're too good to do work for you.

 

M'Trix is very stict on pricing, well strict period. Their prices are listed and they have limits on used parts or bought elsewhere. They are expensive for engine building but as far as diagnose and repair, then John is prolly the best. He diagnosed my frinds turbo stud problem listening to the engine in like 1min (he didn't want to wait two weekks). Tripoit which is in Conoga Park (SFV) or close to but not Gardena (LA) took a week and rebuilt the turbo to find the bad stud ($1.5k). What, who has a Good Rep? Do I really have to ... "" experiences with RR&UnR?

If stock (no porting) you can get Guitarjunkie to throw in a rotaryresurection or rotaryengines.com rebuilt if he can't do it. Some places can be flexible with prices but will they cut corners at your expense to do so? For diagnosing M'trix is best.

 

RR&R Louie rebuilt my engine and i have no complaints

 

^ Actually he doesn't do the rebuilds the owner does and without measurement tools. If you bought dowel pins and ceramic seals, you paid too much (assuming it's in the engine). Engines can't be built on a flat rate price without using used parts. Heat shields are supposed to be put back on the car and not left in the shop. Taping in to the oil pan requires a rubber gromet so all the oil doesnt leave a trail from the shop untill the engine seizes. I would not like my car parts lent to another owner without my permission. If I special order a flywheel I expect what I ordered and not something cheaper installed whithout telling me. They should know what Greddy pulley kit is and not tell you they can't get you a beltT and should not sell you a $50 air pump for $500! They should know how to weld aluminum with aluminum and not "glue" in square brass home depot plumbing in your engine because they do not know what a Greddy elbow is and what the line going in to it is for!!! They should not tell you they don't know how a manual boost controler works and sell you a robinetti/home depot one with the wrong fittings and cheap *** rubber that breaks every 3 freekin miles!
...continue?

 

why would i have a problem with a ported engine? but i can't really do anything until the middle or end of august because i've got too much as it is. but that's a good thing

 

Good info. I just may swing towards a factory rebuilt engine but then again a street port sounds good also. hm... anything bad about R&R rotary? Steve quoted a tempting rebuild with a street port price installed for me.

 

Sorry, I meant the other two places will only do stock ported rebuilds and that you are most likely too backed up to do his rebuild, but might be able to do the R&R for him.

 

Just got my FD back from RR&R for a rebuild. Feel free to PM me with Q's about my RR&R experience. I've really only had my FD for 2 drivable days since my purchase months ago. So, I'm a newb and I have a few questions (below) I could really use secondary counsel on. Thanks for any help you guys have to offer.

*Every three seconds, I hear a "putt" sound from the exhaust (misfiring? too rich?) and the idle sometimes bounces between 1.2-1.5rpm. Does anyone know if this can be caused by an old engine harness alone? Maybe it's the rebuild...or my M2 ecu, or another compression problem (dang it, I shoulda got one to make sure my seals were fixed).

*I could use a referral to a helpful smog place in the LA region for my substantially modded FD. A referral would be greatly appreciated. PM me, pls.

*Does anyone know what a J&S knock sensor is and what good it does me?

*What are possible reasons why my A/C isn't cold?

*Also, does anyone know how I can fix my oil temperature sensor... which is usually remaining below C...but sometimes comes up to ~40% and other times way past H?

*When I checked the AST, coolant, and PSF, the liquid has mud-looking gunk. Is that normal? I don't think RR&R did anything...it's probably just due to age. But still, how does mud get into the coolant fluid and AST?

 

SIDEPEX in TEMPLE CITY 626/291-2133

Ask for Norman.

 

the misfiring and the bouncing can be attributed to a misadjusted TPS. Do a search under Damian and TPS and you will find very useful information on how to check it. It pretty easy.

for the smog ask your builder....

 

* J&S Knock would only be for visual, from what I've read it will not retard on a rotary.

* A/C disconected when engine was rebuilt (assuming it was cold previously). Freon should have been rmoved and replace. You will have to go to a local A/C / radiator shop to have it recharged and possible coverted to new version.

* Oil temp sensor is known for not lasting as long as it should. You can replace yourself but I think it's expensive for what it is.

* The AST and radiator coolant should have been flushed and should be a clean green! P/S is not normally done on a rebuild. You can use a turkey baster to syphen it out then replace with fresh synthetic or have a shop flush/replace. Most likely the mud crud is from a copper seal or similar to extend the life of a failed engine. It should have been flushed out with the rebuild.

 

rotaryshack is chatsworth, talk to rob great with turbos and webers

 

Thanks so much for the advice. I really appreciate it.