Happy belated b-day Mr. E :D Exams all done?

Oops, back to the topic at hand:

"Weight and displacement longitudinally of a V8 in an FC"

No comment, see my previous reply lol

Yah, the best part about that was that was before the oil crisis. So MPG was not a concern back then. Who cares if you only got 6 MPG, gas was less than 50 cents per gallon for some time! Obviously now that is more of a concern...

I think that is the point that a lot of us are trying to make. If you're cool with what you have, then great! Some people (including myself) just have to have a little bit (okay a lot) more than what they have now.

Eventually it all comes down to what are you willing to do, how far are you willing to go, how bad do you want to stay pure, etc. etc.

I would love it if someone could 4 corner weigh their car before and after the V8 (or 20b) swap just to see. I really don't know what the results would be but would be interesting to know. Wouldn't answer the CG question though. I'm not going either of those routes, so it won't affect my decision anyway...

Go check out some Nascar, NHRA, Indy, Cart, Rally, etc websites... In some cases you won't be talking about "V" engines, but piston regardless. You might be surprised what they are revving...

I don't know the exact numbers from any of these sports, but I do know this. I rebuilt a smallblock Chrysler, and there are methods for calculating estimated redlines. It's all a matter of what quality of components you use. Use better, lighter rods, pistons, crank, etc. and don't run insane tolerances and 9k RPM is easily within grasp of most amateur rebuilders.

Man! Some of this stuff is hillarious! I suggest you pick up a basic book that explains gasoline engines and how they work. Maybe you will realize 'revs' has nothing to do with the performace/potential of your engine. Just because your tach redlines at 7k doesn't means squat! I spin my Buick motor to no more then 5600rpm.. does that mean your motor makes more power??? :rolleyes:

I find that the purists and ignorant rotary folks in general bring emotion to the engine swap arguements instead of just plain facts. This is where the flames and arguments start b/c no one is arguing about the same thing.

I HAVE heard a V-8 revving to 9k. NOT a stock car either, my friends Mustang...9 sec 1/4, but still....

Anyway, did I hear correct before that the Renasis is suposed to be all-aluminum? If so weight will be down at LEAST 20lbs.

Michael

With all respect to V8's, I don't think they have right to be in a RX-7 engine bay, or any other import for that matter. Why put a V8 in a RX-7? If speed is all you care about why not put it in another American Car? I think putting in a V8 in a RX-7 is a disgrace to the people who designed it and engineered it the way it is, same goes with people who put a rotary in non-rotary car. I saw a porche 911 carrera with a V8 LT1 motor on this site once and I just about puked(it was even converted to FR), what a disgrace. It takes years to develop a new engine, to put a totally different engine in a car is like spitting in the face of those who built it and believe in it. Sure you can say that V8 RX-7's are unique in it's own, but I can make a same argument and say it's just as same as any other ford or chevy with a V8, therefore it's not at all unique. If you want a LT1 motor go buy a chevy, if you want a rotary go buy a RX-7, but don't put a LT1 in a rotary because you want both. Just my opinion.

skim: I know what you mean, the only thing I would say is that some folks are talking about a late 90's or 2000 era engine swap in an 80s car -- so even though the car was designed for something specific, technology has come a long way since... However, to make the alternate point -- if someone is just wanting newer technology, why not go w/ an FD engine or Cosmo engine... Most of those are mid to late 90s too. (I'm going this route).

I do have to laugh at the LS1 in FD guys sometimes though -- I just don't get the point of all that work... anyway, my .015 cents.

Yes lets compare highly overengineered racing engines to stock production engines :rolleyes:

Its like Deja-vu all over again with these threads :rolleyes:...

I like V-8's.
I like Rotaries.

By all means, do your V-8/GNX swaps.

But why come to a rotary forum singing praises to the piston, then wonder why we don't follow suit. :confused:

Its so obvious that Bullstaff, with his 1 post, is just trolling...he still managed to get 3 pages out of it, lol :)

*edit*

No THAT is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. You need to get out more if you think a V8 can't rev to 9 grand. There are redneck mechanics here building 1/8mi cars that rev to 11 - 12k. A STOCK LS1 redline is at 6000, thats only 1k rpm less than a 13BT yet it makes 350hp (over a 150 more) and 400ftlbs of torque (over 200 more). Couple that with the closer gearing of the 6speed tranny, and that 1000rpm doesn't mean much.


Per the GM website the LS1 weighs 495lbs fully dressed and is 20.4" long. The 13BT weights right at 400lbs fully dressed and is right near 15" long (i will admit i had to try to use a tape measure on my engine in my car with all the stock shit hanging off if it. So we are talking 90lbs and 5". 90# can easily be saved, the battery relocated, not having to use a FMIC/plumbing and an aftermarket HKS manifold+ a LARGER turbo will only add more weight to the front. Also a set of headers on the LS1 not only knocks about 40lbs off but increases power output also! Couple that with the added weight of the nitrous bottle in the hatch and bam, you're there! There is atleast 3 - 4" EASILY mabey more behind the stock 13B you could squeeze it in without affecting anythign too much. I didnt bother getting the height of either because I do not have an LS1 to measure, but it looks similar, and remember the "weight" in the LS1 will be lower, the crank sits at the bottom of the block and the E-shaft/rotors ride in the middle. And if the car still hs a little push i am sure it could be dialed out with a nice suspension setup, or with application of the throttle.


I have numbers now, mabey we can stop talking about the heart and soul of an inanamate object and think like grown ups, or get over ourselves a little and stop thinking some little japanese guy gives a rats ass that someone put a V8 in a 1980's RX7. I think you need to step back and look at the cars we are talking about, these are not Shelby Cobras, they are mass produced, cheap japanese sports cars. Sure they handle awesome, look awesome, and even go VERY well with the 13BT in them, but there is NOTHING wrong with putting a V8 in one. Truth be told I will probably never do it to my car, but hell, if I blew one to many 13B's in a few years, who knows.

And acctually, if they could make a diesel engine rotating assembly light enough and rev as quickly/high as they could a V8, I am sure we would all be using them, but they have to be a little heavier on the inside being as they work off the principal that blows most engines up.

Lets take a look at cost. Is it not more expensive then another rotary? What have those that have done it spent?

You can factor cost, but it needs to be the cost of a 13B making a reliable 400 or so HP. www.thewrongmotor.com reportedly spent about 4g's on the motor (fully dressed),tranny,pcm. The mounts are another $300, throw in $1000 for misc crap and we have a total of $5300.

400hp 13B

Rebuilt/Ported motor $2300 from Pineapple
HKS Manifold $250
60-1 .70a/r Ptrim .96 AR/hotside $750
Haltech E6K $1100
Supra fuel pump $ 180
Aeromotive FPR $120
Bosche 1600cc $200
ACT Clutch $400
Greddy Boost Gauge $125
Greddy EGT $165
Greddy Fuel Pressure $180
MSD 6A $160
Greddy FMIC 24R Spec $1000
Tech Edge DIY Wideband $400



$7300, and I am sure I am forgetting some stuff. And a stock LS1 with exhaust will 100% for sure be more streetable, than a ported standalone 13BT. The 13BT will be fast, cool sounding, and a fun ride, hell I want all that shit, but......for $700 you can get a 75kit wetshot that ups the ante on the V8 even more.

Daniel

Torque wins races, but horsepower sells cars is the funniest thing you've ever heard?

You obviously do not talk to many race drivers do you. Or people who know their ass from a hole in the ground at least.

Torque is a measure of an engine's output. Horsepower is a calculation DERIVED FROM torque and RPM.

Hell, when all else fails - GOOGLEFIGHT!

Let me amend that little list....

Dan, you suck :-p

Brandon

Its hard to be so extremely right Brandon, you should reallty try it some time.

Daniel

1989 RX7 - Still 13B powered.

Actually Dan, I've only ever been wrong once.

You see, I thought that I was wrong, but it turned out that I was right.

Bee-awtch. :p:

Brandon
1989 RX-7 - Barely 13B powered.

that is OOOOLLLLLLLLDDD, and even worse not funny.


Daniel
1989 RX7 - pumping air not water....for now :P

V8 RX-7s are cheap to build. The example stated above was for an LS1, but for other "old-school" V8s that price is much lower.

U Signed the M************ Contract.

Brad

Actually I've seen close to 800 RWHP from a 13B. Ari Yallon puts down 650+ in a (relatively) streetable car.

Brad

streetable car? ............ this maybe true in some parts of the country but in California were I live. If it can't pass smog testing ..... it is not a streetable car.

I would like to see a 300HP-or more rotary RX-7 pass California's emissions testing (legally)

this was the selling factor for me doing my V8 conversion.

as screwy as this sounds here in California it is possible to pass the emission laws with a 300HP-400HP V8 RX-7 but not with a Rotary powered RX-7 of equal power.

First, you are quoting a USED V8 price. How much would all this be new or rebuilt? New clutch? (You budgeted for one below... let's compare apples to apples!)

Quote:

---

400hp 13B

Rebuilt/Ported motor $2300 from Pineapple

---

A good choice... but you could do it yourself for less than $1000.

Quote:

---

HKS Manifold $250
60-1 .70a/r Ptrim .96 AR/hotside $750
Haltech E6K $1100
Supra fuel pump $ 180
Aeromotive FPR $120
Bosche 1600cc $200
ACT Clutch $400

---

All good choices... top quality... and top price too.

Quote:

---

Greddy Boost Gauge $125
Greddy EGT $165
Greddy Fuel Pressure $180

---

Now you are wasting money. Let's go out and buy the most expensive stuff we can find. (Note, not the best, just the most expensive!) :rolleyes:

Quote:

---

MSD 6A $160
Greddy FMIC 24R Spec $1000
Tech Edge DIY Wideband $400

---

Now you are REALLY wasting money. The stock TII ignition is good to well over 500HP with no problems. BDC (Brian D. Cain) makes 425 hp with a STOCK TII intercooler converted to air-to-water by welding a tank around it and hooking it to a pump and Honda Civic radiator. And the wideband? :rolleyes: You need this for WHAT? You tune on a dyno, with a wideband in the shop. There's $1560 that you flat out wasted... + a couple of hundred by using "name" gauges- these figures are frankly artificially inflated. So about $1760 that you inflated, plus $1300+ if you do your own rebuild (it ISN'T rocket science, rotaries are simple!) or in other words a $3060 difference from your figures... and you are STILL comparing a new/rebuilt rotary to a USED V8.

Quote:

---

$7300, and I am sure I am forgetting some stuff. And a stock LS1 with exhaust will 100% for sure be more streetable, than a ported standalone 13BT. The 13BT will be fast, cool sounding, and a fun ride, hell I want all that shit, but......for $700 you can get a 75kit wetshot that ups the ante on the V8 even more.

Daniel

---

Let's see... $7300 - $3060 = $4240. Less for the NEW rotary than the USED V8. Reliable and streetable? Ask Brian- he drives it to work every day, and has for over 2 years. It also maintains the factory weight distribution, and is a LOT easier to get smogged. (Not that it burns cleaner... just that it is less regulatory hassle on a car using the original engine with mods than on a car with a whole swap.)

Brad

long block weight
 

Yes, that is the long block weight 390 Lbs with heads intake included. Just do a search under Vortec 5300 alot of info will come up.

Yes, I know that GM already has aluminum engines on the market, but this engine will be the new standard small block making it more affordable than the Camaro Trans Am or Vett. when pulling it from a junkyard special.

Yes, the rotery engine can be made to make gobbs and gobbs of power. It is a unique engine that does have its place, but how reliable will it be and how long will it last when modded to 300hp, 400 hp, and up.

Slap a PowerDyne centrifical charger on a stock 295 hp Chevy engine and you now have a 450 + hp engine that will last 100,000 + miles. Add a cam and intercooler and the numbers will continue to rise with reliability virtually unchanged.

No, Im not advertising for grannies or any other conversion company, I was simply providing some usefull info for those parties interested in these swaps. The reason I joined this forum was because I have access to an 89 turbo with a blown engine. The owner is fedup with repairing the car and is/was going to have a scrapyard pick it up unless I buy it. I have until Jan 30 to buy or not to buy.

I have done 7 engine swaps since the 9th grade consisting of:
911 TT engine/transaxle into a VW Bus
350 chevy into a Ford 27' T model
911 engine into VW Super Beetle
351 Cleveland into 84' Ranger
454 into 88' S-10
302 into 86' 4 clynder Turbo Mustang
350 into 87 Pontiac Fiero GT
I built these vehicles for myself not for any one else nor will I ever "do" a conversion for anybody.

People I do not mean to offend, but these things are made of metal, glass, plastic, rubber, & silicone. they are possessions to be enjoyed as the owner sees fit.

How many Pro-Rotary enthusiast have modded their car with stiffer suspensions, bigger tires and wheels, body kits, engine mods, Ect., Ect., Ect....
If you have, then you nolonger have a RX7 you have something else entirely unique. Something that you made and are proud of. We are all auto fanatics & evryone has a different idea of what is right and who is to say they are wrong.

OK maybe if you started with a Turbo II

But how about in my case? I had a US spec convertible (no turbo available).

I had 3 options to keep my RX-7 convertible California emissions legal:

1. Buy a Nelson C.A.R.B. approved supercharger for an engine that had 140,000 mile on it at the time. (Also BTW nelson no longer sells superchargers so this not really an option any more) this would also only give me about 200-220HP

2. Install a complete Turbo II drivetrain then find enough C.A.R.B. legal options to put me above 300HP and I would still have to have the car "certified" by the state of California as an engine swap.

3. Install a Chevy V8 that meets the California's engine change guideline criteria.

http://www.googlefight.com/cgi-bin/c...re=1&langue=us

I think this solves our dilemma.

You would get a stock clutch with the tranny/longblock and it would hold the stock motor fine, why replace it? Also I would say the MTF for an LS1 at 350hp is well over that of a 13BT, and you would be stupid to open the block unless to build it for boost or something, and then we are talking totally different HP levels.

[QUOTE]

A good choice... but you could do it yourself for less than $1000.
[/QUOTE

But, you can drop the LS1 in without rebuilding it. I have been involved in countless rotary rebuilds, no its not hard, but I believe even a used LS1 would come with some sort of warranty.


You get what you pay for, if you would build a car with cheap shit then be my guest, but I wouldn't call any of those parts exotic, they are pretty much the standard. The cheapest T04 mani you can buy, the smallest turbo you can run to achive the sought after levels. I also ommited a HKS wastegate ($400) and a BOV(250) and custom DP. I could have also quoted an E11. SO I would not say top quality but I also refuse to use cheap shit. The Greddy guages are no where near the best or the most expensive, infact they are the cheapest Japanese electronic gauges you can buy, once again you can choose to use autometer but I will not. As for the MDS, you could do without that, but that cost is covered EASILY by the wastegate, bov and exahust work. As for the FMIC, the stock TII intercooler is a restrictive POS. I also for one do not want the hassle of having an air to water intercooler for a daily driven car. DO you notice that Brian does not run his A2W core dialy on the street? For repeatable performance a FMIC will be neccesary, and i quoted the cheapest bolton kit for the job, there are plenty of more expensive spearco and even a more expensive Greddy kit.

As for the wideband with a voltile setup I would have one, hell I have one on order for my stock turbo car, it's cheaper than dyno time everytime you want to retune the car for changes (like say a new motor every few months)

Quite frankly I think we all know a used LS1 will outlast a new rotary. Also when your king of reliability Mr. Cain arrived here last week he swapped his motor out in because it was pumping water, and had been for some time. So you might want to find a new poster child :) The fact you tout he has a motor that lasted 2 YEARS should tell you something, two years isn't a very good fail time for a motor. And I think we all know Brian babys his car more than most.

Thank you however for presenting a LOGICAL argument, its nice to see everyone isn't a total retard.

Personally, I will probably never put an LS1 into my black 89 TII, I don't want to hack the car up like that, and I like the sound, feel and pull of the 13B. However, the swap is not the anti-christic action that it is made out to be and the rotary is not even nearly the end all be all of the internal combustion engines. It is neat and different, but as compared to a piston engine it is down on low end torque and is not nearly as reliable. I am willing to live with these quirks for now (just like DSM people live with weak trannies ect). Some people here just really need to look outside of whats infront of them. When I had my first TII I was pretty much the same as most here, but I realized there was more out there. The rotary has its place with everything else, but it is by no means king of the hill. Just be a little more open minded people. DO you realize how well the LS1 has been engineered? GM has some of the best engineers around, they are using the same basic pushrod design they have been using FOREVER, and are still WAY more than competetive when competing against newly redesigned engines.

And lastly, torque is what its all about, the LS1 just gets there sooner than the 13B.


Daniel

This is a great thread! Seeing some people argue opinions while others argue with facts is interesting. However, it's my turn to argue, another OPINION! The reason I love the rotary so much is because of it's efficiency (did I even spell that right?). I just can't bring myself to own something with such a large engine. Yes they're fast, but not my style. Take the viper. Alot of people talk shit about them and bladdy blabla, but they whoop some ass at the drag strip, road course, and many other events, given a good driver. I can see the V8 swap into a vert, that'd be a great idea for a daily driver, but I'd still want a turbo rotary on the side that would simply scream. Basically it all comes down to personal preference and if you want a V8, go for it, but personally, I'd throw in an SR20 before almost any other piston engine. Talk about an engineered engine, the crank can handle tons of power (yeah, i know it's torque that breaks things). You can argue which is better/cheaper/whatever, but in the end, I will love high-revving, high-hp, engines that scream to oblivion. I just don't see any stock (note, I said stock) American engines doing that. If I want torque, I'll get an old school camaro supersport to scare the living shit out of people. I've got a lot of respect for the new L series engines, but it seems that we focus too much on overall power and big numbers. getting a balanced car is what it's all about. from suspenion, to ergonomics, to power, to aerodynamics, everything should be topnotch. balance, my friend, balance. waxon, waxoff.

V8 advocates may suggest that the LS1 will last 100K miles, but it has been my friends and family's experience that there is not a stock GM product made that will last that long without needing major work. Maybe it’s me and how I drive, but my Toyota and Mazda products have all lasted that long without even replacing a single gasket.

Something I can't say for any domestic designed/built motor I have ever seen. Maybe that is just one more reason why I will never own a domestic again.

And the V8 advocates still haven't answered how the higher positioned mass affects cornering? They say that the crank is lower than a rotary, and with the kits it lowers it ever further, but that does little to help the mass sitting so high.

And the weights that people mention should also include the tranny, and accessories. Dropping a V8 in and not having air conditioning, speed variable power steering, and emissions is a compromise that I wouldn't be willing to make.

i think the only way for the swapped cars to show a difference in handling would be on a track/skidpad/slalom. i realize the skidpad doesn't hold much water, but a test with the least variables is needed to obtain an "honest" answer. i think an overall handling test (one that incorporates many different handling characteristics, wet, dry, slalom, etc.) is in order, if any of you have the time to waste. is the majority of the weight of the engine in the base of the engine (aka the block and crank) or are the heads heavy in their own right? now that i think about it, the track wouldn't be a very true test of the handling, as the extra power gained could also influence lap times. but like someone said before, with some aftermarket suspension mods, it may not make a damn bit of difference.

hmmm ...... I don't think anyone with a V8 RX-7 (certainly not me) wants to be labeled an "advocate". (except for maybe Grannys who are cashing in on the idea) I myself, would own another rotary powered RX-7 again .... and I would also consider building another V8 RX-7 because I think both have their place.

Do you guys really lose that much sleep over what other people do to their cars?

I sort of do when i see a V8 in it. Dont get me wrong but putting a V8 inside a rotary engine bay just takes away the whole meaning of owning an RX-7. I take pride in having just 1.3 liters of naturally aspirated power sitting under my hood. Its not much, but it still makes me feel better than owning anything else. Someone that has put a V8 in their car obviously deserves credit for putting in the effort and making it work but they get no respect from me for having that same V8 in there. I dont care if the motor makes 330hp stock Id rather have 330 turbocharged hp from a 13b - Gabe

What else would you call someone that keeps saying his way of change is the best besides an advocate?

And I am certainly never loosing sleep over how people mod their cars... I may laugh at it... I may tease them about it... I may admire...

But not one person has been able to justify or come up with one argument for a V8 swap that is completely valid and stands up, except for that you can have 450+ HP and ft/lbs, and that is something that is meaningless to me.

Heres the thing...
You guys know that domestic V8s are more reliable than a 13b or any rotary for that matter. You know they create more power, and you know that they are easier and cheaper to work on.
Can any of this really be debated any longer???
I have seen rotary engines last untill 300K miles, which is admirable. At the same time, I have seen Big Block Chevys go 300K miles, and on one occasion I saw a Big Block with 500+K miles one the motor with out any major component failure. It did need new main bearings, which required the block to be machined again. You see.... with a Chevy V8 you can hone or bore the motor out, and rebuild another motor that could easily last another 200K miles between rebuilds. Once a housing goes bad, its bad.... only use for it is as a decoration in someones room..... which I have seen on many occasions.

I am definetely not trying to say that the Chevy V8 is more suitable than the Rotary for an RX-7. I am just saying that if practicality, reliability, and bang for buck are your main concern.... the V8 swap is an option that you should seriously consider. Otherwise enjoy your rotary to the fullest. I certainly enjoyed my TII, and I enjoy my current V8 FC equally as much.

As far as the V8 having a Higher Center of gravity.....
I argued the same point a few years ago when I was against the V8 swap. You know what I realized? The marginal difference that it can make will not effect my driving style. Besides, the problems associated with the higher center of gravity can be easily remedied, with a little suspension/drivetrain modification. I have said it before, and I will say it again..... There is no reason to take your RX-7's handling potential to its limits on public
roads. Save it for the road coarse.

I am so not an advocate. Not in the least. I would never do this to my car. You are either not reading or not paying attention. The weight is solved by the engine being moved back and lowered to deal with the issues of the motor being more top heavy.

And a thicker anti sway bar.

for all of you who seem upset by the v8 swapper guys...calm down. its their car, they will do what they want (and have every right to do). don't worry, i can almost completely assure you that they won't sneak up in the night and do a v8 conversion on your car :D.

Well being as I want one, but don't want to do it to my car, I might try something like that. :)

Daniel

Then:

My rotary RX-7 convertible was 3100 lbs. and had 180 HP (with modifications) it was "not street legal" due to the fact that I had no catalytic converter (which is a big fine if you get caught) and my rotary powered convertible was loud and it was still getting beat up by old ladies in Hondas.

Now:

My V8 RX-7 convertible is 3200 lbs. Which is about 200 lbs. lighter then a striped to the bone (lightened) hardtop F-body Camaro and has 300 hp with 350 lbs. of twist. It will still out handle "most" cars and it also blows the doors off “most” cars on the road, and it is as quiet as a stock 13B and it “is” street legal ….. meaning I don’t have to “bribe” someone to make it pass California emissions.

this is not a valid argument?

No I read that perfectly fine...

But because of the oil pan and accessories (like air conditioning, Alt and power steering) you are limited to how much lower you can drop that engine. I would doubt that the bottom of the pan sits any lower than the bottom of the rotary's oil pan... perhaps the V8 engine centerline is further back (which would be a good thing), but the major mass of the V8 motor is still going to be higher than the major mass of the Rotary or you are loosing the accesssories.

If I am wrong by all means please let me know, by proving what the V8 advicates claim, with pictures or measurements. But if it is the same, "I replaced the head(s) with an aluminum one so now the engine is lighter" and "I chopped out the ... (firewall/air conditioning/ etc) so it would fit" and simular BS.

No, again that goes back to my HP is meaningless comments. I don't need 300HP or to race and win to justify my driving experience. AS I mentioned above, is there any justification other than raw HP and torque???

I think its been said, that without modifications to the engine, and relocation of components the weight issue, is not viable.

And that its been said in other threads the swap cost issue (not even including the dismal resale value of a V8 RX-7) has been proved to be not viable.

With the V8 the suspension needs changes, so the engine placement issue is negated.

If we go into modifications, yes the GM V8 can be made lighter and to power up 300+hp. But so can the rotary, so those negate each other.

Smoothness??? Rotary has that beat.

Reliability, while the GM V8 might have major components that are more reliable, and less things need to be replaced on a rebuild, they have considerably lower reliability with leaks, small parts failure and recalls than any Mazda or even imported Japanese product.

So is there any argument other than just HP?


My 2950 lb 88 ‘vert does around 200-225 Hp and is perfectly street legal in CA, and listening or looking at it you couldn't tell it was any different than a regular 'vert except the FMIC behind the grill and the boost gauge on the pillar. So even if I was into the street racing scene (which I out grew years ago) my 250 lbs lighter almost identical car probably would be beaten by yours in a drag race... Would that make you feel better.

Icemark,

You still haven’t addressed my question on how to get that kind of horsepower and still pass California emissions. Also, if you don’t care about horsepower why do you drive a sports car?

yes .... HP is not the only factor of a owning sports car but are you saying HP is not an important factor of owning a sports car?


Also, have you ever driving a N/A convertible RX-7?

Also, Have you ever driven a V8 converted RX-7?

Have you ever driven an 88 GTU (i just drove mine home last night) have you ever driven an 02 SS(well i only rode in it last night.) So whats your point They are two totally different cars. They make their horsepower and torque ratings at totally different places on a dyno sheet and there is a big difference in weight, so what. An NA RX-7 is only a sports car for its handling characteristics. A turboII is the true sports car of the late 80's early 90's I drive an NA everyday and do i think its a sports car? yes but do i go around saying look at me im fast? hell no. Would i think any different if i drove a "V8RX-7" Hell no because there is no way it would handle the way my car does now and if i really wanted to ride in a V8 id just call my friends. -Gabe

that was my point ... you guys keep telling me my car doesn't handle anymore because I installed a V8.

but my V8 RX-7 is now a totally different car and I'm the one driving it so I think I would know how it handles more then people who are just guessing

OK.. If brian babies his car as in actualy BABIES it.. his engine shouldn't have lasted two years.. the reason being, Rotary engines use the oil for cooling as well as water. there are oil injectors that inject oil onto the rotors to coll them off.. if you baby the car they won't inject enough oil. your SUPPOSE to run a rotary harder then you would a usual engine. by the way.. I got a chevy Beretta Z26 with 125K miles on it.. all it's needed has been regular oil changes.. couple new trannies ( the engine's good.. the tranny sucks!) and new tires regularly too... WHAT!? so i drive my car's liek i stole them.. sue me! I just like the idea of having a different engine to play with..

You open your mouth and do not know what you speak of. Brian does not run oil injection.

Daniel

Ummm... the rotary is NOT efficient from a fuel-burn perspective. The V8 will get better mileage.

Brad

This is valid... and a convertible is a better candidate for this swap than other cars, since it has more weight on the rear wheels than on the front in factory trim.

Brad

True... he runs premix, no oil injection pump at all. However, he DOESN'T baby it. He doesn't beat on it all the time, but he definitely doesn't drive like some granny.

Brad