Those of you who have completed their swaps...what are you doing for suspension setup? I plan on doing a SBC into my 1st gen. I know the swap doesn't add as much weight as you'd think, but I'm sure more than the stock suspension is capable of handling. I plan to daily drive/road race this thing, so I'd like it if it handled like a racecar, and not just a brick.

Any suggesstions are welcome...thanks in advance.

 

I haven't done any motor swap before, but as far as suspension goes you should just need to scale your spring/shock rates according to the extra weight.

For example, if the 12a motor and transmission weighs approximately 400 pounds, Racing beat springs run at 200 inch-pounds, and your new motor/tranny comes in at say 600 pounds, you are looking at:

600/400 = x/200

x = spring rate you need = 200*600/400 = 300 inch pounds.

All you need then is to find a damper/shock that will match that rate, and you should be good to go. As far as "handling" goes, you will just have to tune out under/oversteer by mixing up springs and/or roll bars in the rear. The extra weight in the front will help turn-in, ie promote oversteer, while keeping the softer springs in the rear will promote understeer, so I don't really know what you're looking at.

Hope that helps.

 

I'm using the same tokico HP shocks and eibach springs that I had before my 5.0 swap (FC). It handles great! Ride height might be an eighth inch or so lower in front, but it's too close to tell by eyeballing it.

 

if you do a non emissions swap and not put a turbo or supercharger on the SBC, then you really just need to move the battery to the back and there is very little room added to the front and back.
Think of it this way, to be politically correct, you have to speak in stock numbers. Do you have AC, PS, emissions now? Do you have any sound dedning in the back removed? is the spare there?
If you took the 30lb battery from the front you are -30 in the front, if you put in in the back and remove the spare you are 0. Go from there, you are only gonna end up prolly no more than 80, maybe 100 lbs up front

 

What a bunch of rubbish. You should not be trying to give people advice unless you have some grasp of the subject.

First of all anyone who knows ANYTHING about suspension and handling knows that added weight in the front causes understeer, added weight in the rear causes oversteer, just in case you have never driven a Porsche.

Secondly the spring rate is not just a function of engine weight - the springs have to support the weight of the car. The numbers you need to compare are the weight on each front wheel before and after the swap, which might be in the range of 600 pounds before, 650 pounds after the swap. Of course you may want stiffer springs to change the handling at the expense of ride quality, but that is not a function of weight - you could do that with the original engine, as many people do when they install aftermarket springs. Your selection of wheels and tires can have a big effect also. I run wider tires in the rear to handle the power.

I run the stock springs and anti-roll bars front and rear with my Ford V8 1st gen, the only upgrade is some good gas shocks. It is not suitable for racing, but quite adequate for the street. With all that torque, you can get oversteer anytime you want it, and if you are not careful, even when you don't want it. You will have to be very careful on wet pavement.

If you really want to understand this stuff, read one of Carroll Smith's books, such as "Tune to Win".

 

Stillettoman is exactly right, man you didn't even account for the weight of the shell, suspension, etc. Your math is basically wrong on so many levels its ridiculous, I wont even go into how many ways, as stated go do some research.

Ride height/center of gravity/spring length/steering geometry/tire wall height and so many other factors are all relevant to this equation, not to mention personal skill/preferences