I know there are a lot of companies out there selling various parts for swapping in the V8, and I was just hoping if anyone that has done a recent swap has a rough idea on how much a swap would be to take a blown apex seal rx7 otherwise in great condition and from scratch get a v8 setup up and running. Can do labor myself and have access to a home machine shop and welder.

I been looking for a replacement motor for the 13b but with all the companies out there selling them sticking firmly to no warranty and the rebuild kit costing as much as a replacement motor, i think its time to seriously consider the v8.

Thank you.

 

For... what chassis/engine/trans?

 

Samberg has the best kit, 1,725
driveshaft, 335
good radiator core, 200
random odds and ends, 400


2660 + cost of motor & trans + labor

 

I will definitely check that out, where is a good place to price motors/transmissions? Im just looking for a basic ls1.

 

call your local speedshop they prob have one on consignment for a decent deal. any motor you get on craiglist assume you will have to do a full rebuild.

 

the swap COULD be done for cheap, but to do it right, it's gonna cost some money, realistically, you'll be spending the following:

$3000-$5000 for the motor/trans/ecu/harness (depends on year/mileage/motor)
$800 for clutch kit, flywheel, remote bleeder
$700 for headers
$500 for OEM tune up parts
$500-1000 for a radiator
$2000 for samberg kit, another $250 to powdercoat that since they come raw
$100 for walbro 255 fuel pump
$100 for dakota digital speedo fix
$100 for power steering hose from Pez
$500 for air conditioning parts
$1000 for labor
$500 for random parts, fittings for gauges, mounts, etc.

so far i'm $12k in parts in my swap, but my motor has built heads and cam

 

Right on the money! Depending on how far you go with the build you can empty your pockets!

 

bookmarked. any idea on how much for just a simple swap?

ecu, tranny, engine and other necessities to get it together? Noob to V8 swaps here

 

The prices are above but there are different prices for products. For example, the samberg radiator kit is $1300 whereas the hinson is half that. Samberg stuff are high quality though, and the fit & finish are unmatched.

If you run a 8.8 rear get ready to fork over another 1500-2000 for the entire rear + samberg 8.8 rear cradle.

 

as far as engine/trans goes i may be able to help anyone whos interested in finding low mileage LS/Tremec combos.

PM me if you need me to check for a specific combo for you. I cant promise theyre available but probably better quality than the used ones floating around elsewhere. I can tell you how cheap an LS3/TR6060 was if you PM me.

 

i am currently at $5,700 minus parts I sold off the rotary setup -$1,900. I am almost done, need few odds and ends. AC will be added later. Motor and trans are stock with 63K. Some of the swap parts i got used which help with cost. Its all in the shopping around and getting the best bang for your buck and how modded you want to go.

So currently at $3,800 (plus misc like fuse holders, ect) and ac (500) at a later date. I am not touching the rear.

here is my build thread http://www.norotors.com/index.php?PH...&topic=15107.0

Here are my numbers off top of my head (try not to miss anything):

$3500 for the motor/trans/ecu/harness (2000 ls1/t56 63k, Stock mannies, made own ypipe)
$150 for tune up
$400 for a radiator
$425 for Previous owned new hinson kit
$110 for power steering hose from Pez
$500 for air conditioning parts
$142 IAT and MAF that wasnt with engine
$305 Hinson parts: slave, clutch line ect
$95 an fittings/adpt
$100 Gauges
$50 exhaust tubing
$114 battery pc680
$70 intake, couplers
$115 new o2s
Plus fluids, filter, misc stuff i had like wire loom...ect.
Already had intake filer and fuel pump from single setup.

 

Pretty reasonable numbers here from what I've seen. As always, the more you can do yourself, the cheaper it'll be.

 

plus side is, you can sell everything from your old rotary set up, trans, engine, any performance parts, etc etc, so that will help you out if you are on a really tight budget. just take it slow and have fun with it

 

I sold my complete running rotary with manual tranny, koyo radiator, downpipe and midpipe for $2500

 

this is what i have into mine. this was done about 4-5 years ago though.

3000 for ls1/t56 engine trans and jtr long tube headers.
1400 hinson swap kit with the aluminum drive shaft
digital dakota 80-100
wiring harness with ecu 150
hinson power steering regulator with line 250 i think
master power t76 turbo 500
tial bov and wastegate 500
piping 300-500
ebay i/c 100
griffen radiator 350
mis hoses, lines, ect 300
i installed everything and welded everything myself. so that saved a ton!!!

so for my turbo ls1, with 482 rwhp and 502 tqe, i have around $7150 invested in mine. although you could probably subtract $1500 if you take away the turbo stuff.

 

I've been looking for a complete checklist for LS1 >> FD, does this exist somewhere? Last thing I want is to waste several days here and there waiting for parts I didn't know I needed.

 

*swap kit with trans brace and drive shaft for the engine/trans you choose
*headers that fit the v8/rx7 body + the rest of the exhaust, or custom exhaust to mate to yourcat back system
*radiator kit, or make one yourself
*coolant temp sensor from the v8
*oil pressure sensor from the v8
*power steering lines
*a/c lines if you are going to use it
*ecu and harness (harness must be modified and spliced into you rx7 harness)
*you have to have the car tuned to remove the anti theft system (vats)
*relay and wires for fuel pump
*upgraded fuel pump (i upgraded mine before the swap with a supra tt pump)
*oil, coolant, brake, power steering fluids


I got alot of my info from the grannys speed shop website

 

on my 93 rx7

motor/trans - obviously a LSx swap, i got mine from a 02 camaro, trans was a T56 6speed
engine harness - oem camaro harness, you'll need to send it out to get modified, or you can buy a pre-modifed harness from Pez or Rywire
computer/ecu/pcm - oem camaro ecu, you'll need to send it out to get modified, or you can get EMS like AEM or something, you'd need to tune it afterwards
headers - i went with spoolin' performance longtubes
intake - i went with the samberg kit, so it includes an intake/radiator combo, but you can run 90* off the throttle body and another 90* down as a cold air intake
mount kit - i went with samberg complete mount kit with driveshaft, had to get it powdercoated since it comes raw metal, you could also go with hinson kit
drive shaft - drive shaft shop makes one, keep in mind M/T and A/T RX7's have different rear diff flanges, so you need to get the correct one
radiator - i went with samberg intake/radiator combo, you could go custom, mishimoto, hinson, etc.
keep the oil pressure and water temp sensor from the 13b, so you could buy an adapter from autometer and keep the factory gauges
shifter - get a steeda tri-ax if you're using a camaro t-56, puts the shifter as close as possible to oem shift boot location
battery relocation kit - you can do your own extension or buy a kit, relocate it to any rear cargo bin or trunk space
exhaust - y-pipe or x-pipe to a 3" or 3.5" muffler, this is where you and your muffler shop/fab guy can get creative
power steering - Pez has a power steering line for $100, use a f-body pump
air conditioning - Pez makes a A/C kit, forget how much it is, i do not intend on keeping A/C
traction control - racelogic makes a kit, from $1200-1800 depending on what options you want, or if you go with AEM infinity, it has traction control settings, make sure you keep your factory ABS speed sensors since it'll save you a couple hundred bucks
clutch + flywheel - since the motor is out of the car, here's your chance to replace the clutch + flywheel kit to something better
clutch slave cylinder - these are notorious for failing, replace it with a new OEM unit for peace of mind, and get a remote slave bleeder to save yourself headaches when it comes to bleeding the clutch, i bought it from speedway and it was a 48" line that i ran up into the engine bay and mounted it by the brake master cylinder
fuel pump - i used a walbro 255, some guys used 94+ supra TT pumps
fuel lines/regulator - i used a fuel filter/regulator combo from a 03 c5 vette base, it's clean, simple, prefixed pressure to 58psi, and all stock lines from the motor, you could go with aftermarket but you'll end up spending more
rear diff - the stock FD one will work, some guys have gotten by with it, some guys break it on the first launch, but most people i know upgrade to a turbo-II FC internals in a A/T rear diff housing for an affordable upgrade, you can go 8.8 or cobra, those are more expensive

depending on motor/mount kit/intake manifold/intake arm set up, you might need to notch the firewall lip for clearance, "massage" the transmission tunnel for header clearances, notch the hood, etc.

 

*Extremely* helpful! Thank you, this is great.

You can use stock LS1 headers, right? Would prob upgrade in the future, but not right now. Also hoping to get the engine + trans together so I don't have to change the clutch.

 

You can use the LS1 Stock manifolds.

 

One thing that you need to watch out for too is tools you may need to get the job done.... if you can, borrow stuff or rent it. I spent about 2 grand just on tools and other misc crap I didn't have when I started. But you know what? When you get that thing running.... it's ALL worth it!!!!!!

 

Good point. I had included some money in the budget for tools, but if things pan out I'll be doing it at a shop, so I may not need much.

 

good list. also, when i got my engine/tranny. it came with a ls2 flywheel and an ls7 clutch. i can litterally press the clutch down with my finger, but it holds my 500 hp/tqe with ease and no slipping. i dont know how much the stock flywheel/clutch combo costs, but i would imagine it would be cheaper then aftermarket clutches

 

This thread = very helpful thanks May be doing a swap over the summer if I can find a good 7 to do it to.

 

I also have ls2 fly with ls7 clutch, love it, it held my 550whp/650tq no prob, never slipped and was super soft and easy to drive, my cobra friend was sooo jealous at how easy my clutch was to push in and use