A few pictures of my new TII...
#103
Killed a rod bearing in the car last week at the strip. I did manage to knock down a 12.3 @ 112 mph on an aborted pass (7.99 1/8, should have been a ~11.80 @ 125 mph). Not bad 5-6 psi and a 6 speed.
Going to be putting together a fully forged wiseco/callies setup in an aluminum 5.7L block over the next couple months and bring it back out with a proper bottom end.
Should go mo' faster. I'm expecting 700-750 RWHP out of the 347.
Going to be putting together a fully forged wiseco/callies setup in an aluminum 5.7L block over the next couple months and bring it back out with a proper bottom end.
Should go mo' faster. I'm expecting 700-750 RWHP out of the 347.
#106
Seats are 300ZX TT out of a '95.
It should be back up in a 5-6 weeks. Gotta get some cash together and get the engine put together. Lingenfelter and EPP are doing the build. Should be stout.
It should be back up in a 5-6 weeks. Gotta get some cash together and get the engine put together. Lingenfelter and EPP are doing the build. Should be stout.
#108
There is a sweet Lingenfelter supercharged vette running around this area.. He also pumps nitrous in there... Crazy I saw him run a ViperGTS down the interstate, it was just a blur of yellow and he was gone...
#109
oh my lord. i dont think ive ever been in love with an FC as much as i am yours and its not even a rotary. i feel dirty.
no really though, GREAT looking car! post some videos of that bad boy.
It's probably been answered before but, what kit do you have on there? it looks so good. i just wanna eat your car up.
no really though, GREAT looking car! post some videos of that bad boy.
It's probably been answered before but, what kit do you have on there? it looks so good. i just wanna eat your car up.
#111
Thanks guys.
The body kit is AIT Racing/BMagic.
There are some videos of the car up at www.ls1fc.com in the "videos" section.
-Blake
The body kit is AIT Racing/BMagic.
There are some videos of the car up at www.ls1fc.com in the "videos" section.
-Blake
#112
Well, the engine is down at Lingenfelter for the machine work, all the parts are in now (minus bearings and crank damper). Should have it in the car in a few weeks.
While it was down, I redid all the chassis wiring, repainted the engine bay and cleaned up a few loose ends. Just need to touch up a few little details in the bodywork and the car should be ALMOST where I want it to be.
While it was down, I redid all the chassis wiring, repainted the engine bay and cleaned up a few loose ends. Just need to touch up a few little details in the bodywork and the car should be ALMOST where I want it to be.
#114
Engine build last weekend:
ARP cam bolts, GM HD Chain, GM HV Oil Pump:
ARP studs, Compstar Rods:
Wiseco 2618 forged/coated -25cc pistons:
MLS gaskets with copper spray, ARP 12 point head studs:
And a bit more progress last night:
Heater hoses and harness entrances into the interior relocated; There is a piece of 1/8" steel on each of these (riveted on the harness and bolted on the heater hoses) to reinforce where the grommet seals them (since the Mazda metal is like tin foil). I don't run A/C, so the heater hoses were relocated to this location for ease of access.
They are VERY snug in the mounts and secured in the rear with clamps so that they are very easy to install/remove the hoses from for service.
The factory harness hole has been sealed off from the bay.
Bulkhead fitting for oil pressure gauge; I don't like electrical oil pressure gauges as I've had weird electrical issues in the past, and it perturbs me when the gauge reads incorrectly. I also don't like cheesy copper lines full of oil in my interior or holes in the firewall. Solution? AN fittings, braided line and a bulkhead fitting.
Here you can see it attached to the factory pressure port on the LS1; there is plenty of slack to allow for engine movement, though my mounts keep it pretty well secured.
Long block in place, I repainted the engine bay and cleaned up a few things I didn't care for in there while the engine was out:
ARP cam bolts, GM HD Chain, GM HV Oil Pump:
ARP studs, Compstar Rods:
Wiseco 2618 forged/coated -25cc pistons:
MLS gaskets with copper spray, ARP 12 point head studs:
And a bit more progress last night:
Heater hoses and harness entrances into the interior relocated; There is a piece of 1/8" steel on each of these (riveted on the harness and bolted on the heater hoses) to reinforce where the grommet seals them (since the Mazda metal is like tin foil). I don't run A/C, so the heater hoses were relocated to this location for ease of access.
They are VERY snug in the mounts and secured in the rear with clamps so that they are very easy to install/remove the hoses from for service.
The factory harness hole has been sealed off from the bay.
Bulkhead fitting for oil pressure gauge; I don't like electrical oil pressure gauges as I've had weird electrical issues in the past, and it perturbs me when the gauge reads incorrectly. I also don't like cheesy copper lines full of oil in my interior or holes in the firewall. Solution? AN fittings, braided line and a bulkhead fitting.
Here you can see it attached to the factory pressure port on the LS1; there is plenty of slack to allow for engine movement, though my mounts keep it pretty well secured.
Long block in place, I repainted the engine bay and cleaned up a few things I didn't care for in there while the engine was out:
#115
And the intake, fuel system and electrical installed. Unfortunately there was an ordering error on my crank pulley, so I cannot complete the cooling/turbo installation until it arrives as it would be rather unenjoyable to install the pulley with a pipe 3" in front of it.
I'm going to put the vacuum bulkhead (for boost gauge and controller) in the firewall tonight, as well as the driveshaft and engine and transmission oils. I'm also still waiting on a billet vacuum distribution block which should tidy up my vacuum situation (was rather messy before with lots of "T" fittings) so that I can complete that setup. Just a couple more hours of labor once the pulley and vacuum block arrive.
I'm going to put the vacuum bulkhead (for boost gauge and controller) in the firewall tonight, as well as the driveshaft and engine and transmission oils. I'm also still waiting on a billet vacuum distribution block which should tidy up my vacuum situation (was rather messy before with lots of "T" fittings) so that I can complete that setup. Just a couple more hours of labor once the pulley and vacuum block arrive.
#117
Well, the car is back apart (somewhat) for this winters changes.
Converting the exhaust to come out the back (currently dumps after a bullet muffler, in the center of the car just behind the doors. Just want to quiet it down a bit.
Removing ALL extra wiring from the car, tucking the chassis harness in the engine bay, and sleeving and tucking the engine harness in the bay.
Lowering the seats 1" to get more head clearance.
Installing a 2 step.
Installing an alkycontrol injection system.
Tweaking a couple things on the turbo kit.
Detailing the interior.
Detailing the exterior.
More stuff I'm surely forgetting. I'll post some more up once I get pictures of the progress.
Converting the exhaust to come out the back (currently dumps after a bullet muffler, in the center of the car just behind the doors. Just want to quiet it down a bit.
Removing ALL extra wiring from the car, tucking the chassis harness in the engine bay, and sleeving and tucking the engine harness in the bay.
Lowering the seats 1" to get more head clearance.
Installing a 2 step.
Installing an alkycontrol injection system.
Tweaking a couple things on the turbo kit.
Detailing the interior.
Detailing the exterior.
More stuff I'm surely forgetting. I'll post some more up once I get pictures of the progress.
#118
Progress:
Redoing the entire harness with sleeving and heat shrink (glue filled):
Culling all unused wires from the entire harness (chassis and engine).
"Tucking" the engine bay harness and fuse block (NO visible wiring in the engine bay).
Installing methanol (alkycontrol) and Lingenfelter 2 step launch control/rev limiter:
What fun is a completed project, right?
Redoing the entire harness with sleeving and heat shrink (glue filled):
Culling all unused wires from the entire harness (chassis and engine).
"Tucking" the engine bay harness and fuse block (NO visible wiring in the engine bay).
Installing methanol (alkycontrol) and Lingenfelter 2 step launch control/rev limiter:
What fun is a completed project, right?
#120
You know, I've honestly ran across one or two people total that actually talked much trash, and most of them talked it about me more so than the car.
But hey, if people don't like it, more power to them, just build something better before you talk smack.
But hey, if people don't like it, more power to them, just build something better before you talk smack.
#121
Okay, making some progress:
Interior wiring; still a lot to do here, all the extra stuff is pulled out now though. The wiring for the Autometer/VDO gauges is the loose wiring on the column; it will be terminated into a metripack 10 way connector to plug into the gauges.
The fuse block and relays to control the HVAC (I removed the factory primary relay) and LS1 harness will be mounted on the plate where the factory harness connectors for the wipers, etc. originally mounted.
Relocated OEM fuse box for main fuse, headlights, retractors, etc; this is covered by the shrouding, so you can't see it when the bay is put together.
Boost control solenoid. I still need to put a metripack connector on the solenoid itself, you can see the lead for the controller merged into the F-Body harness:
Lingelfelter 2 Step controller, fully wired, along with all driver's side fuel injector, coil driver and other various sensor wiring:
Passenger wiring:
And an overall:
There is still a lot of cleanup to do, as well as finishing up the coil driver to coil harness and dressing in a few things. Couple of paint glitches in the rocker covers that need cleaned up, nothing too major.
I'll post up a finished pic of the interior wiring once it's totally sorted out. Also of merit, the wiring you see in the engine bay currently, is all the wiring there is, the rest is either in the fenders or on the interior side of the firewall.
Interior wiring; still a lot to do here, all the extra stuff is pulled out now though. The wiring for the Autometer/VDO gauges is the loose wiring on the column; it will be terminated into a metripack 10 way connector to plug into the gauges.
The fuse block and relays to control the HVAC (I removed the factory primary relay) and LS1 harness will be mounted on the plate where the factory harness connectors for the wipers, etc. originally mounted.
Relocated OEM fuse box for main fuse, headlights, retractors, etc; this is covered by the shrouding, so you can't see it when the bay is put together.
Boost control solenoid. I still need to put a metripack connector on the solenoid itself, you can see the lead for the controller merged into the F-Body harness:
Lingelfelter 2 Step controller, fully wired, along with all driver's side fuel injector, coil driver and other various sensor wiring:
Passenger wiring:
And an overall:
There is still a lot of cleanup to do, as well as finishing up the coil driver to coil harness and dressing in a few things. Couple of paint glitches in the rocker covers that need cleaned up, nothing too major.
I'll post up a finished pic of the interior wiring once it's totally sorted out. Also of merit, the wiring you see in the engine bay currently, is all the wiring there is, the rest is either in the fenders or on the interior side of the firewall.
#125