Let's presume... I want another (more reliable) engine in my FD and I want to do it myself (not unfamiliar with engine swaps)

I pick the LT1 which seems to be the most common choice to swap and not make things more complicated as they are.

I order a kit at f.e. Hinson, including the subframe, drive shaft, engine brace, and some other stuff.

What other issue will turn up?

1. Which trandmiddion is ussed? FD's with adaptor plate or the LT1's? If the LT1's, how doeds it fit the intrior dimensions of the FD?

2. do the electronics (engine) hook up with the FD instrument panel? (rpm meter,speed,...)

3. The biggest disadvantage of the V8 conversion is not having the turbo('s) around any more. Which I would really miss. Will it take a lot of altering (engine wise, compression) to safely run 7-9 psi?
I have 2 Garett T3 turbo's laying around which could be of use. (they are small, but spool pretty fast and as the roads here are not that long, that would do fine.

although the V8 engine produces morre power stock than the FD (normal) and the fact I would like to turbo it doesn't mean I'm out for big power.

My Fd is a weekend driver but I'm not that happy with constantly keeping an eye on the watertemp gauge or the tuning options for the rotary.

THX

 

I think the more common engine for an FD swap is the LS1. It will take some fabrication to do a turbo system on any V8 you put in there. This will not be cheap if someone else does your fab work.

1) T56 transmission to go with the LS1.

2) RPM gauge works fine. You have to use the stock mazda oil pressure and temp senders for those gauges. A digital converter box can be used for the speed signal. You will also need to change the settings in the PCM for correct tire height and rear end ratio to have accurate speed.

3) You should be able to run 7-9 psi on a stock LS1 block. This would likely be the limit without modifing anything else. You will need larger injectors and tunning as well.

The swap is a really good one and I am constantly impressed with how my car is turning out.

 

Ok, I'm not that familiar with the small/big block US engines.

I saw in this same column a guy swapping in a V8 with twin turbo's. His setup looked fairly good to realize (with the right amount of welding)
My neighbur has a full automaitc welding machine and is good welder. Custom exhaust building would be no problem.

Engine management would be something for a stand-alone (Halltech) I guess , to keep control of the turbo's and fuel.

Form your experience, what would be the cost of V8 swap according to the above info. Just buying all the pieces and putting them in yourselves?

Is it rally necessary to change the diff in the back? If yes with what? If no, how far will the Mazda diff last?

ride heigt would be controlled by a coil over set or airbags.

 

Rear diff will likely depend on the use of the car. Drag strip with slicks, you are going to break the mazda diff eventually....probably hold up to 450 to the ground, maybe more. My car is street/road course and doesn't see the same kind of abuse. I will likely stay with the mazda diff or an upgrade replacement.

Yes there is one crazy person on here slapping twins on a LT1...if I had fab skills like that, I would probably do it too (but to my LS1).

This swap is not for the faint of heart (or wallet). Doing the swap, and only the straight forward swap, you are probably looking at approximately $8000 US dollars. Then you need the car itself, tools, suspension work, brake work, any engine mods, wheels/tires, bushings, etc. The list goes on and on.

 

Well the car is already available and the 13B REw is still running good. I'mjust overviewing my options for the day the worst will happen.

The FD is not my daily driver so that's a comfort.

If I'm looking at a rebuild 13B rotary with single turbo (to minimze for some part the weakness of the engine), in the end I will also be in the 10 grant section.

Taking it from there I would still have the issue about the rotary.But I don't dislike the engine, it make sgreat power based on it's unusual design.

Tools, space,welding equipment and people with the right kind of skills are not really a problem. I'm just concerned about the electronics matching up the stock ones (I like them). Engine management must be atainable with stand alone steering.

Basicly it seems simple to buy a complete build in package and start of, but there's a lot more to it.

all the small parts like the bushings, are they to be replaced at the moment or is it possible to do after wards? (if you're not talking about engine buschings to the subframe)

 

Talking about suspension. Not needed...something I did waiting on the subframe etc.

It appears you have the abillity to do it, and the work really isn't that bad. My car's interior looks identical to the way it did before the LS1, with the exception of the shifter...it just looks aftermarket.

You will use the LS1 PCM...and wire it to the stock mazda harness under the dash. Battery has to go to the rear bins as well.

I removed the power steering and looped the stock lines. Others have adapted the LS1 PS pump to the mazda rack...and a few have converted to full manual rack.

 

can you keep air conditioning functional on the ls1 swaps?

 

yes, but i am not using it.