I think a 1UZ would make for a nice driver, not necessarily a race car. The 1UZ is expensive to modify so I'd likely keep it stock. 250 hp from an all aluminum 1UZ isn't too far off the mark of the 275hp from an aluminum headed LT1 and it weighs less.

Where can you buy a 1UZ for $500? Last I checked a couple of years ago they were about $1500 locally. I already have an R154 trans so I'd need a bellhousing, flywheel and clutch. I wonder if it's small enough to fit a FB? I have a near dead GSL-SE here that would make a nice daily driver. I don't want to make a race car out of the SE as it's pretty nice and I already have my FC for that.

Maybe I should drop a VH45DE in my Dodge van? Actually, I think it wouldn't fit under the doghouse.

 

The 1uz is a fantastic V8 but you'll have to go Australian to get most of your performance parts. It's got a huge and loyal following over there.

The valvetrain in this engine gives me some crazy ideas. It's as simple as a OHC design can get, almost as simple as a pushrod design, and it has VERY FEW moving parts. There are australian 1uz's that rev well over 10000 RPMs. The head design is very similar to that of high powered sport bikes. They also take to boost very well. I believe Turbonetics had a Celica with a 1UZ that did over 1200rwhp at 20lbs of boost. This is with 5.3L of displacement I believe (it was stroked). Very impressive. Also, there is no demand for this engine. It lasts forever. The average life expectancy of the 1UZ is 400k to 600k miles!

I heard a rumor that the upcoming Supra will be V8 powered.

All your Toyota V8 questions answered here...
http://lextreme.com/

 

GDJ - domestic v8s built for racing can do all that... and the lifespan of one modded to make 1200 rwhp or hit 10K isnt 400-600K, domestic, Toyota, or otherwise.

Im just curious - how wide is it? How cheap is it? How expensive are parts? Whats the price of aftermarket stuff such as cams, new heads, and the forced induction kits?


Now, a v8Supra... I LIKE, a LOT

 

I've been through that web site before. That guy needs someone to rewrite most of his stuff or he needs to take more ESL classes. Harsh, I know, but it really makes the guy appear dumb.

Actually the F in 1UZ-FE is for the narrow valve displacement angle heads meant for economy and lower RPM. The G in say 4A-GE is for the more angled vlave performance heads. Not that the 1UZ doesn't respond well to mods, it's just meant first and foremost as a smooth luxury car engine. The head on my '89 Corolla is very similar with the one cam gear driving the other and direct acting lifters. The performance heads though have the cams much farther apart so each cam gets its own sprocket for the drive belt.

The thing that kills the 1UZ for me is the price to repair or mod one. I just brought home a 73k mile, 1996 LT1 and T56 6 speed with all the wiring, computer, mounts, exhaust, fuel pump, clutch, etc for $1200. I do need a bellhousing and damper for my LT1 as they were damaged, but an LT1-T56 bellhousing is much cheaper than the Aussie 1UZ to R154 or W58 bellhousing. It really doesn't matter if this LT1 only lasts 30k miles as the car might see 3000 miles a year.

 

The 1UZ isn't a SBC. You don't need aftermarket heads for it. I answered your questions in my other post. How cheap is cheap? I said 500 bucks is cheap... SP in Chicago is a well known Supra tuner and Larry has found several complete set-ups for under 500 bucks and I myself have found more than a few. I don't have an exact measurement as to how wide it is, but it isn't as wide as something like a Nissan V8 or Northstar. It has been fitted into a MKIII Supra and an FB. No one said a built to the hilt motor woul last to 600K, but you beeter believe that there are cars running with almost 400K on them. There are no KIT's as far as FI is concerned. Some people are building an M90 blower kit. If you are looking for a bolt in affair, go with the LS1...

 

check out the last post in this thread, there is some discussion of fitting the stock turbo2 trans to the mitsu engines
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=36638

 

Yup, the 4g63 and 4g64 wideblocks (they DID make 4g63 wideblocks) will bolt up to a B2600 bellhousing. There is a forum called Project Zero, I believe, where one of the guys has already bolted them together and is about to drop it into his Starion. I can't find the link because I am at work. The 4g6x engines are nice because there is huge aftermarket support, parts are relatively cheap (because there is half the parts than the 1UZ), and the wideblocks are already RWD. Not hard to make a RWD 4g6x.

The Nissan v8 mentioned near the beginning of the thread will probably not fit. The 1UZ is very compact, as it was designed this way (that's why there is only 1 cam gear driving 2 cams), and the Nissan engine is much bigger. The 1UZ also shares parts with the 2UZ and 3UZ, which were 4.7L and 4.3L respectively. The 1UZ shares the same crank with the 3UZ, and the 2UZ crank will go into either engine. The 1UZ and 3UZ are all aluminum with iron sleeves, and the sleeves are about the same thickness, so logically it seems that you can get a lot more displacement from bore with the 3UZ.

The 1UZ has a rod ratio of just over 1.7, which means the bottom end will likely handle 10k rpm without a problem. The valvetrain isn't great, but with a little modification, Supra valves and valve springs will fit and would likely allow the head to rev to 10k as well. I wouldn't even build one of these engines without planning on revving to 10 grand.

The stroke on the 2UZ is not all that more than the stroke on the 1UZ. I believe if you used the 2UZ crank in a 1UZ, you'd end up with less than .2L increase in displacement.

What I would do is move the piston rings up, and move the wrist pin to just under the oil ring. Use a 2UZ crank and subtract the extra stroke from the amount of the wrist pin height increase. Then however many mm are left over, add to the rod length. This would allow greater stroke without compromising the revability of the bottom end. You can get quite a bit of extra bore from oversizing when you have 8 pistons.

I have heard of a 4.9L 1UZ making over 500hp at 8500 rpm.

 

Here is the 4g63 forum link: http://beatingyou.com/forum/index.php

Also, the price of parts on the 1UZ CAN be curbed a bit; for example, people on Lextreme are using SBC rods. Ross also has experience making 1UZ pistons and they have always had great prices IMO (for the quality that you get, I don't think you can beat Ross). Like I mentioned before, the 2JZ valvetrain can lend a hand, but the real problem with cost is the fact that it's a DOHC V8. When you step up to an engine of this caliber, parts are going to cost more due to sheer quantity. Imagine buying a Ferrea valvetrain for a Ferrari 360... 60 valves!

Anyway, add to the fact that MA70 Supras aren't exactly a hot commodity and I think you have a good option here. A lot of people on Lextreme have gotten their engines for as little as $300! I don't know from where, but there is one on ebay with a buy it now for $800. That's cheaper than any LS1. I believe they pop up every now and then on ebay. If you are concerned about cost, then I highly suggest you skip the VVTi engines (they usually cost more at the outset anyway).

I'll have to take a look and do some number crunching, but I think it may be possible to bolt one up to a TII tranny with a homemade adapter of some kind. Kinda like this one.

 

The 4G63 was found orginally in the Starion over-seas. A 1980's RWD sports car producded by Mitsubishi and sold state was as the Starion and the Chrysler Conquest. If you could find those parts life would be good.