I'm patching together several posts from other forums:



The plan:

LS2 with 2000 miles on it 400hp/400tq
LS6 Intake manifold
1-3/4" Ceramic coated longtube headers, X-pipe, 3" out the back, no mufflers
DSS custom driveshaft
LS1 PCM and wiring harness, ditching the drive by wire
G-Force GF4A Transmission
4-speed, clutchless upshift dogbox from a NASCAR Truck will hold 1000hp/800ftlb
1st=60mph, 2nd=95mph, 3rd=132mph, 4th will be a .75 overdrive for the highway
Sumped fuel tank with Aeromotive goodies and SS line
Very basic 6pt cage
I'm keeping full interior, this will be a street/drift car
Custom cooling stuff
Accusump goodies...
the list goes on and on
Just started the deconstruction yesterday:





I'll document the progress... should have the rotary out tomorrow, still waiting on the trans and some other parts, it will not be a short build, I'm thinking mid spring it will be done.


Someone asked cost of trans and why:

The G4a Trans goes for $8900 new I got one used -but rebuilt for $2500
Main reason I chose this route is because I already have a ton of $ into the rear end set-up I'm running and there really is no gear options for the FC... just 4.11 and 4.33. The T56 trans has short gears as is and after people are swapping the main complaint is shifting all the time... the 4A has pretty much any gears you want available... that compounded with the fact that people are asking $1300 or so for a T56 with 100,000 miles...
**** it let's get baller.

Engine is all ready to come out! I may have cut a few things that did not necessarily NEED to be cut -but it sure was easier :bowrofl:
I had to buy a hoist and load leveler because I did not have one :yay: Sharing a garage with someone is cool because we spilt the cost of major tool that we both use. All the bolts I had laying around were too thick to fit through the links in the chain provided with the load leveler otherwise the engine would be out right now. I'll run out and pick up the bolts on the way to the shop tomorrow, I have 1,000,000 other things I need to get done (no car related) today.






OK! Rotary is out! wow is the engine bay a mess! I'm going to spend the next few days just cleaning and removing unneeded crap. Sold my Engine/trans for $500 -not bad, that will go toward my headers.



sorry about bad quality, phone pics.




here's some grass from the landscaping I did at the last event




10-11

this weekend was productive:




I'll have the Engine, mounting goodies and my new wheels this week

 

curiouse why you have the ls6 intake listed seperate, ls2 and ls6 have the same top end

 

Check out: http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289456


he said it will be for drifting so I'm guessing he's looking for the gains in the top end especially with the long ratios.

 

The manifolds are different.

The LS2 is drive by wire and the Intake manifold is well known to flow poorly.

The LS6 is not drive by wire, flows better and has different design.

I could have fit a cable TB on the LS2 but I needed injectors and sensors and got a LS6 manifold brand new, complete, for a very good price.

From the link above:

LS6 vs LS2 Intake
"After running the LS1 intake, we were curious to see how a factory LS6 manifold would perform. As in the previous test, the manifold was equipped with a 78mm throttle body. Despite the 12mm handicap in throttle opening, the LS6 intake easily outperformed the larger LS2 unit, producing peak numbers of 489 hp and 481 lb-ft of torque. The LS6offered serious power gains from 4,500 rpm to 5,700 rpm but offered smaller gains as low as 3,800 rpm. We suspect that the smaller throttle opening was responsible for the drop in power past 6,000 rpm, but even out to 6,500 rpm, the LS6 outperformed the LS2 by at least a few horses. "

 

thats wierd, i was almost certain other then the dbw tb that they were the same manifold, well different fuel rail and injectors as well, if you want some seriouse flow tho, ditch the entire ls2 top end, and get yourself some ls3 stuff, the heads flow so much better, especially if you have them cnc ported first. way cheaper then AFR or other aftermarket ****

 

I just wanna get it running and driving first... then I'll probly do heads ect later down the road. I don't want this to turn into one of those projects that just sits for years like so many other peoples projects do. I'm building this to drive it.

 

yea, i wish i had the funds to get my ls2 built for the fd, its just sitting and im stuck driving my POS jetta

 

that sucks... I got an amazing deal on the LS2 or this would have been a ls1 swap.

 

UPDATE 11-7-2009:

rad support and some other **** I dont need is gone



Interior out and stating on the cage soon:



I'll be putting the interior back in... this is a street/track car.




Trans stuff is sorted out...

G-Force fucked me... I was quoted one price for a very specific trans, then was told it could not be built (this is after talking to the builder in detail and he said no problem) then the price doubled from what I was quoted. I'll never do business with them again, it was as if they did not wanna do the build and just threw a high number at me so I would go away... well I did... I went away and found a better deal with the exact ratios I need and met a really nice guy in the process.

Bought this one right out of Perry Tripp's ARCA car for $3000 less than G-Force wanted.







It's getting rebuilt with the gear ratios I want and should ship out in about a week.



It's a Tex Racing T-101 4 speed dogbox. Got a really good deal considering the closest quote I got to build it to my specs was $1000 more than what Perry asked for. He's a super cool guy and very talented driver, I told him what I was building and he laughed a bit and said it's going to be a fun car... cannot wait to get behind the wheel.



Going with a quicktime bellhousing:





RM-6036SFI Certified @ 6.1

RM-6036 - Chevy LS Bellhousing/Richmond Style Transmission

* Height = 6.290
* Trans. Bore Ø = 4.685
* Engine = Chevy LS-1, LS-2, LS-3, LS-6, LS-7, LS-9
* Trans. = Richmond, Saginaw, Muncie, Bert, Brinn, Chevy TKO 500-600
* Clutch Ø = 11"
* Flywheel = 168 tooth or 153 tooth
* Weight = 22#
* Stock Shifter fork & throwout bearing
* Passed ALL SFI testing
* Pivot ball, full engine plate and grade 8 bolts included

And this little guy:

 

Trans will be here Thurs

 

Trans came in today:



here it is after an hour of cleaning and some engine enamel:




only what... 4 months till I get to use it

Here are a few more pics:




one for scale:

 

siiiiiik


how much does that dogbox weigh? (in comparison to a T56)

 

About 90lbs

 

from now on this is a picture book... I think that's the appropriate reading level for this forum.

 

Much agreed. I like pictures more anyways. hahaha

 

 

any updates on this thing?

 

Should run soon.

 

wow man. niiice. havent been to the meets in a while and i heard you havent either since you have been building this monstrosity...when ur done i gota see it in person.

 

mann clubloose is getting more and more serious

 

Any updates?

btw what wheels did you have on before the enkei? 15x8.... something?

 

I had 15x8 Crager steelies...


It runs -did a start up a few weeks back -I had to flip over my rad because it just was not working properly -so I did that and will be taking it out for the inaugural flogging in a parking lot tomorrow! I'll get some vid.

 

cant wait to see it run.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5AsAon36Z8


I'll be at the next E-Town event

 

so awesome keep up the good work.