most powerfull N/A rx7
#1
most powerfull N/A rx7
hey hey hey. i happen to have an '86 rx7 N/A, and would like to know how much power you can squeeze out of that engine.
thanks
dom
P.S. pics and vids would be awsome.......yea im a junkie so what..
thanks
dom
P.S. pics and vids would be awsome.......yea im a junkie so what..
#3
Originally Posted by Ocelot
Probably a 20B or V8 .
Originally Posted by Ocelot
In the end its just a ton easier/cheaper to go FI.
neways to answer ur question guy, u could probably get approx~ 230ishwhp if u went standalone and got a carb setup.
#4
Originally Posted by RexRyder
huh. he didnt even ask.
I believe the 86 RX-7's are fuel injected. 4x460cc injectors.
neways to answer ur question guy, u could probably get approx~ 230ishwhp if u went standalone and got a carb setup.
I believe the 86 RX-7's are fuel injected. 4x460cc injectors.
neways to answer ur question guy, u could probably get approx~ 230ishwhp if u went standalone and got a carb setup.
You're friend is the search button. There are many, many threads on extracting power from n/a's.
#5
Originally Posted by RexRyder
huh. he didnt even ask.
I believe the 86 RX-7's are fuel injected. 4x460cc injectors.
neways to answer ur question guy, u could probably get approx~ 230ishwhp if u went standalone and got a carb setup.
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#11
fuel injection is way better than carburetors, yea i didn't understand the carbed stand alone either. What type of racing do you do? if it's straight line then get nitrous, it's pretty cheap compared to alternatives.
#13
header/presilencer from racing beat with your choice of cat-back. Or you could buy the dual exhasaust all the way from the engine out the tail pipes.
CAI, MSD-6AL, and a S-AFCII to tune your car. Im not sure about hp-tq numbers, but thats pretty much max for N/A on stock ports. All thats for power, but to have real fun you need a crisp suspension. Racing beat sells the suspension kit for around 400-500, then all you need are shocks. Install a lightweight flywheel if you want good acceleration, not sure if this is ideal for drifting/drag racing.
Buy an engine torque brace for good throttle responce, strut tower braces...
anything else would require nitrous or SC/TC
CAI, MSD-6AL, and a S-AFCII to tune your car. Im not sure about hp-tq numbers, but thats pretty much max for N/A on stock ports. All thats for power, but to have real fun you need a crisp suspension. Racing beat sells the suspension kit for around 400-500, then all you need are shocks. Install a lightweight flywheel if you want good acceleration, not sure if this is ideal for drifting/drag racing.
Buy an engine torque brace for good throttle responce, strut tower braces...
anything else would require nitrous or SC/TC
Last edited by geargrabber; 01-18-05 at 08:57 PM.
#15
Cold Air Intake
msd-6al : multiple spark discharge at lower-mid range rpms (under 4k)- capacitive discharge ignition with built in rev limiter.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_6_6420.htm
msd-6al : multiple spark discharge at lower-mid range rpms (under 4k)- capacitive discharge ignition with built in rev limiter.
http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_6_6420.htm
Last edited by geargrabber; 01-19-05 at 01:35 PM.
#17
Originally Posted by Defiant FC3S
any idea on how much? and i have a custom fabricated short ram with an AEM filter
It seems that you have a lot of reading to do if you don't know what a CAI or MSD is. You don't need an MSD, it probably won't do anything noticable. With an n/a RX-7, just try to get the most air in and out of the motor, with a good tune. CAI-ported intake manifold-Pineapple racing sleeves-streetport-Racing Beat header-straight pipes-SAFC.
But sense you are building a 'drifter', you might want to also consider some suspension peices. Springs and shocks are a must. There are a lot of people who prefer rear-toe eliminators to make the rear suspension more predictable.
Last edited by BDoty311; 01-20-05 at 02:31 PM.
#18
why the hell would you want cold air when it takes to long to reach the engine and the piping still gets hot anyway considering the piping is right by the radiator hose, so your not getting as cold of air as you think you are. I knew what MSD was. not 6al though
#20
Originally Posted by Defiant FC3S
why the hell would you want cold air when it takes to long to reach the engine and the piping still gets hot anyway considering the piping is right by the radiator hose, so your not getting as cold of air as you think you are. I knew what MSD was. not 6al though
I'm guessing you have never seen the intake air temp difference between a cold air setup and a non-cold air setup. The difference can be drastic
It doesn't really matter if the piping is by the radiator hose cosidering the lower intake manifold is a inch away from the exhaust manifold. The incoming air doesn't take the temperature of the piping it travels through, but it does heat up. A 20-30degree difference in incoming air is hardly affected by the intake plumbing being close to the radiator hose.
Remind me to stay away from Defiant motorsports.
#21
Yeah colder air equals more oxygen (cold causes gas to contract, heat makes it expand) so cold air will have more oxygen per volume and we all know that more oxygen means more powerful combustion. Regardless of the length of the intake the most difference is made in the temperature of the air coming in.
#22
Originally Posted by flamin-roids
Yeah colder air equals more oxygen (cold causes gas to contract, heat makes it expand) so cold air will have more oxygen per volume and we all know that more oxygen means more powerful combustion. Regardless of the length of the intake the most difference is made in the temperature of the air coming in.
thank you captain obvious. i dont really have a reason to be here so there i went.
p.s. you better be at the pie on the 29th
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08-15-15 11:06 AM