rlse2003

ok so i see ppl getting into the 13 often in this forum with the stock turbo i was just wondering what kind of mods u guys are using to get there and about how much HP/TQ your pushing just to get an idea what im look at... oh yea and about how much $$$ did u spend to get there

thanks

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I got into the 13s with a stock turbo, SAFC, bigger injectors, and a huge disregard for engine safety.

Might as well add intake and exhaust to that list.

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

I'm running 3" downpipe, 3" intake, 720cc secondaries, SAFC, EBC (AVC-R). The exhaust cost me 120 bucks. Intake cost me 120 bucks. SAFC cost me around 300 back in the day (you can get them cheaper now, probably around 150ish). AVC-R cost me around 650 back in the day. There are cheaper ways of controlling boost....but having 2 of the dead sexy apex-i controllers looks great. Injectors cost me another 200.

So....looks like a grand total of 1390ish.

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

Okay, let me add that I wish I would have spent another 100 bucks on a Walbro255, and another couple hundred on a wideband O2 sensor.....that away I could have tuned it properly....and wouldn't be rebuilding my motor as we speak.

So 1400 + 300.

rlse2003

koo cuz im pllanning on spending at least1500 on a rebuild... and about 1500 more in mods to get into the 13s thats 3 grand thats not bad at all

thanks guys

any more of u have any other setups

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

how are you planning on rebuilding for $300? apex seals nearly run that alone.

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

Umm...Where is it that I state I'm going to rebuild for 300? He asked what it took to get into the 13's.

Exhaust - 120
Intake - 120
SAFC - 300
AVCR - 650
720's - 200
----- = 1390

+ what I should have done
walbro 255 - 100
wideband - 200
total of 1390 + 300.


He doesn't have to rebuild his motor to get into the 13's. I just have to rebuild mine to get back there again. I've ordered all must stuff for my rebuild, and I'm looking at around 650ish + fluids.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i see, it's tough to find a wideband for under $300 by itself so i wasn't sure what those numbers meant.

rlse2003

well i also need the rebuild cuz i have a busted coolent seal so im going to need it... and one of ma friends said he would sell me a ct27 turbo and i was wondering if that would fit ma car????

rlse2003

what kind of exhaust is it???

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

My local muffler shop built mine custom. I bought two 3" mandrel bent 90's and he cut them up and made my downpipe....then he put a 30" glass pack where the 2nd cat used to be...then it' kicks out right before the passenger rear tire. All 3". Cost me around 120 bucks in all.

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

i ran a 13.8 ar 101 with an 89 TII with some mile exhaust stock DP with cats pounded out, full emission removal, 10 psi boost stock IC sacf II with veryy little fuel added, and a home made intake with cone filter. my last run was 13.550 at 104.26, i had 3.5 inch exhaust with stock boost like 9 to 10psi intake safc II and that was it. maybe im just lucky. now i have my wide band and egt, i plan on getting some injectors and a hybrid turbo soon.

oh yea lmost forgot i also have a rewired walbro 255

rlse2003

thanks for the help

so im try and save for the rebuild then get a fuel pump and injectors and then an exhaust and a sacf

what kind of por job am i looking at if i want good power but still be reliable

rlse2003

about how much hp\tq did u guys make with these mods???

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

Never made it to a dyno....but I'd say around 230-240 to the wheels.

http://www.rx7.com/accel_calculator.html

rlse2003

koo thanks for the calculator

so with 230hp u were geting into the mid 13s thats koo

so about how much hp is ma stock TII pushing???

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

182BHP

i can't believe i answered that without flaming the **** out of you.

rlse2003

i was talking about to the wheels has any1 dynoed their stock tII i know it has182bhp and183tq but i wanted to know at the wheels

adrock3217

Using a PERFECT COMPRESSION motor, and a non-slouching drivetrain to take more power away..15% drivetrain loss would set you at 155rwhp stock.

Now, if you have more then..I'd say 80k miles on the motor/drivetrain, not to mention a turbo that is getting tired, I'd expect no more than 130rwhp.

rlse2003

thanks man thats helps a lot

NaturalSmooth

iTrader: (6)

You should definately decide what you want to do fuel wise first. You positively need to upgrade the fuel pump though, I recommend just getting an FD fuel pump, you can get them on the forum for $30 to $50 shipped.
If you keep your stock 550cc injectors you will need to use something like an SAFC to control the fuel, since the stock ECU will only let them go to about 63% max duty cycle. If you go this route you will also need a Fuel Cut Defender.

The other option is to do something like an Rtek 1.7 and get the 720cc secondaries, then you do not have to worry about tuning fuel or a fuel cut defender since it is built in.

Then all you need is a good motor, exhaust/intake and a good driver.

I thought that it was 182RWHP and 205 flywheel out of the factory for the S4 Turbo II? Maybe I'm wrong......

jkimbro

iTrader: (3)

yep, you're wrong. 182 is the factory HP rating....I've never seen a factory give a RWHP rating.

rlse2003

so if i get the Rtek 1.7 and some720s i wont need the fuel cut off but before i get that i should get a fuel pump... koo why is the FD pump better than the fc 1?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

incorrect, worn/broken in components usually have less drag hence less power loss than brand new components, also 15% is a high estimate, that is usually the very upper range of power loss %'s.

the factory HP numbers are from the flywheel and i would have to guess on a fully broken in motor for peak HP numbers on several engines averaged out.

15% loss through the drivetrain might be what you would get off the showroom floor on brand new components with the brakes not even glazed and slightly dragging, bearings tight and not full seated, etc. expect to see numbers rise up to about 10K miles where they will taper off then maybe slightly increase over time but the engine likely will take an opposite turn and peak out at 10k miles and start to decrease over time in power but we are only talking about maybe 1% for the next 150k miles(if the car is maintained properly/regularly).