What's the difference between all the aftermarket LSD and the stock ones?
#1
What's the difference between all the aftermarket LSD and the stock ones?
I'ver heard of people putting miata, FD stock LSDs on the 2nd Gens.
But I was actually curious how fitment was on those stock parts from other cars.
What about the aftermarket ones. KAAZ, CUSCO, and all the other different type of LSDs they are offering.
Im in the market for one and i was wondering the difference between them all.
I was leaning toward the KAAZ lsd as opposed to getting a USED one from another car.
I've heard that they are noisy and whiney at high speeds tho.
Any advice guys?
But I was actually curious how fitment was on those stock parts from other cars.
What about the aftermarket ones. KAAZ, CUSCO, and all the other different type of LSDs they are offering.
Im in the market for one and i was wondering the difference between them all.
I was leaning toward the KAAZ lsd as opposed to getting a USED one from another car.
I've heard that they are noisy and whiney at high speeds tho.
Any advice guys?
#2
start by educating yourself on the basic types of LSD
1 way (lock on accel only)
1.5 way (lock on accel, semi lock on decel)
2 way (lock both ways)
viscous clutch
clutch
torsen
helical
etc.
different lsds will have different locking characteristics... some will be real aggressive. some are real weak.
start with basics; this page is real helpful
http://www.kaazusa.com/introductionT...ion_To_LSD.htm
pick one based on your driving style. if you like to trail brake in, maybe a 1.5 way would be better suited for you. other people say anything but 2 way is for wussies. so read up, and see if you can't get a ride with some local autocrossers or something. make your own informed decision.
an aggressive aftermarket lsd will probably be very noisy. they clunk as you drive around at low speed, scaring small children at your local supermarket. (exaggerating)
1 way (lock on accel only)
1.5 way (lock on accel, semi lock on decel)
2 way (lock both ways)
viscous clutch
clutch
torsen
helical
etc.
different lsds will have different locking characteristics... some will be real aggressive. some are real weak.
start with basics; this page is real helpful
http://www.kaazusa.com/introductionT...ion_To_LSD.htm
pick one based on your driving style. if you like to trail brake in, maybe a 1.5 way would be better suited for you. other people say anything but 2 way is for wussies. so read up, and see if you can't get a ride with some local autocrossers or something. make your own informed decision.
an aggressive aftermarket lsd will probably be very noisy. they clunk as you drive around at low speed, scaring small children at your local supermarket. (exaggerating)
#3
Ok, I'll address the issue of the used diff. The Miata and FD torsen diffs, for all intents and purposes, don't ever wear out, so if you get one, it'll still provide you with limited slip action. The Miata diff will bolt right into the NA housing with no mods required. The FD diff will bolt into the TII housing with no mods required. They're not interchangable between TII and NA, the TII diff is bigger.
The torsen is very much different in character than a clutch type. They're much less noticable and much more predictable in that it's a linear lockup, whereas the clutch type has a noticable point at which it locks, and depending on setup and driving, it can cycle in and out of lock in a corner, which will make you weave about through the corner. They are also noisier, they're known to pop and clunk. A torsen will feel more or less like an open diff, without so much one wheel spinning.
For a purely street driven car with less than, say 300hp for an NA, or 400hp for a TII, then the torsen is probably the best bet. For more power than that they can get fragile if abused. For drag racing a clutch type such as the KAZZ is probably best. For road racing and autocross most would prefer the torsen, some would prefer the clutch type.
Another option is to get a used S4 diff and rebuild it. It's a clutch type diff, but at that point you might as well get an aftermarket one because it'll be probably be better and won't cost much if any more, and will be less hassle. With any diff installation, take it to a pro, if it's not preloaded right you can destroy the ring and pinion gear very quickly.
My choice would be a torsen out of a Miata or FD, depending on what model of car it's going into.
The torsen is very much different in character than a clutch type. They're much less noticable and much more predictable in that it's a linear lockup, whereas the clutch type has a noticable point at which it locks, and depending on setup and driving, it can cycle in and out of lock in a corner, which will make you weave about through the corner. They are also noisier, they're known to pop and clunk. A torsen will feel more or less like an open diff, without so much one wheel spinning.
For a purely street driven car with less than, say 300hp for an NA, or 400hp for a TII, then the torsen is probably the best bet. For more power than that they can get fragile if abused. For drag racing a clutch type such as the KAZZ is probably best. For road racing and autocross most would prefer the torsen, some would prefer the clutch type.
Another option is to get a used S4 diff and rebuild it. It's a clutch type diff, but at that point you might as well get an aftermarket one because it'll be probably be better and won't cost much if any more, and will be less hassle. With any diff installation, take it to a pro, if it's not preloaded right you can destroy the ring and pinion gear very quickly.
My choice would be a torsen out of a Miata or FD, depending on what model of car it's going into.
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2way, aftermarket, clutch, cusco, difference, differential, install, lsd, miata, noisy, rx7, stock, torsen, type, whats