Ti Backing Plates for Rear Calipers
11-17-10, 10:40 AM
#1
Ti Backing Plates for Rear Calipers
All,
I worked with TiSpeed Braking to have them create titanium backing plates for
our rear calipers to match those available for big brake kits and for the
stock fronts already.
These should help reduce heat transferred to the piston, fluid, and seals. The
introductory price is pretty good too:
http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...roducts_id=112
enjoy!
P
I worked with TiSpeed Braking to have them create titanium backing plates for
our rear calipers to match those available for big brake kits and for the
stock fronts already.
These should help reduce heat transferred to the piston, fluid, and seals. The
introductory price is pretty good too:
http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...roducts_id=112
enjoy!
P
11-17-10, 02:29 PM
#3
So long as they use the same pad shape, yes.
As a bonus, these cover the whole pad, and won't rust/decay, so they won't look shitty like the backs of most pads and the factory backing shims. I'll probably run them on the street, too.
As a bonus, these cover the whole pad, and won't rust/decay, so they won't look shitty like the backs of most pads and the factory backing shims. I'll probably run them on the street, too.
This should finish up my brake setup nicely.
11-27-10, 10:35 AM
#7
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Not sure about these but I have used a lot of Ti backing plates over the years, and they do really work. When vintage racing the big-bore cars, especially Camaros/Corvettes no matter what pads, fluids, etc you ran you would boil the fluid in the calipers in a decent run, and constantly be bleeding the brakes over the weekend to remove the air sucked in. The Ti plates developed by 3R Racing fixed this, and they at one time offered them for a fairly wide variety of calipers. Others have now gotten into the act so I am not sure if 3R even offers them anymore. My concern with the Ti plates is thickness and alloy, too thin and they do not work as well, wrong alloy same result.
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11-27-10, 09:32 PM
#9
I was asking because I have them and there may be a slight issue with them. I was prepping the race car for next weekend and thought I'd throw these on. The design shape is correct, but where the hole is at is the wrong location for my hawk pads. This is a simple fix as you just have to mark and re drill another hole/widen the other hole. I talked to Pete and he said he thinks he sent an old set of N Tech's in. I verified that the Hawks are in the same place as the OEM pads. I'm going to see what other old pads I have laying around and see if the tab varies.
12-01-10, 02:46 AM
#11
Suggestion
I cut crude backing plates out of sheet stainless from McMaster with some shears, for track use. I suggest that two of the plates be designed to "complete the circle" around the rear caliper piston so that the piston rubber seal is fully shielded.
In other words, bump out the straight side with an arc where the piston is. This will extend the plate off the pad in the area of the piston.
In my experience, the rubber piston seals burn long before the fluid boils (I've never had fluid boil), and if the plate covers only the pad, the seals absorb enough radiated heat from the rotor to harden and crack in the exposed area.
In other words, bump out the straight side with an arc where the piston is. This will extend the plate off the pad in the area of the piston.
In my experience, the rubber piston seals burn long before the fluid boils (I've never had fluid boil), and if the plate covers only the pad, the seals absorb enough radiated heat from the rotor to harden and crack in the exposed area.
12-01-10, 07:57 AM
#12
Ok,
I took the CAD drawing TiSpeed supplied me, cut it out to scale, and compared it to three pads, and I've found that the issue is that the location and size of the "nub" varies quite a bit, most notably with the Hawk pads that Brent tried.
Pics attached show three pads... brand new factory pads that came w/ the brand new factory calipers I just bought, N-Tech Competition (which I sent to TiSpeed to make the prototype from), and Hawk DTC (covered with white boiled fluid residue, hence the need for new calipers):
As you can see, the factory and N-Tech are very close when the backing plate is overlaid, and both would work without modifying the plate—the variance is about 1mm.
The Hawk, however, is in a drastically different place. I also attached a pic of the CAD drawing for reference. My thought is, making the hole big enough to accommodate both a stock location nub and a Hawk nub would be a pretty big hole and might compromise the heat rejection. Could be that you just need to drill a Hawk-specific hole if that's what you use.
I took the CAD drawing TiSpeed supplied me, cut it out to scale, and compared it to three pads, and I've found that the issue is that the location and size of the "nub" varies quite a bit, most notably with the Hawk pads that Brent tried.
Pics attached show three pads... brand new factory pads that came w/ the brand new factory calipers I just bought, N-Tech Competition (which I sent to TiSpeed to make the prototype from), and Hawk DTC (covered with white boiled fluid residue, hence the need for new calipers):
As you can see, the factory and N-Tech are very close when the backing plate is overlaid, and both would work without modifying the plate—the variance is about 1mm.
The Hawk, however, is in a drastically different place. I also attached a pic of the CAD drawing for reference. My thought is, making the hole big enough to accommodate both a stock location nub and a Hawk nub would be a pretty big hole and might compromise the heat rejection. Could be that you just need to drill a Hawk-specific hole if that's what you use.
12-01-10, 08:01 AM
#13
I cut crude backing plates out of sheet stainless from McMaster with some shears, for track use. I suggest that two of the plates be designed to "complete the circle" around the rear caliper piston so that the piston rubber seal is fully shielded.
In other words, bump out the straight side with an arc where the piston is. This will extend the plate off the pad in the area of the piston.
In my experience, the rubber piston seals burn long before the fluid boils (I've never had fluid boil), and if the plate covers only the pad, the seals absorb enough radiated heat from the rotor to harden and crack in the exposed area.
In other words, bump out the straight side with an arc where the piston is. This will extend the plate off the pad in the area of the piston.
In my experience, the rubber piston seals burn long before the fluid boils (I've never had fluid boil), and if the plate covers only the pad, the seals absorb enough radiated heat from the rotor to harden and crack in the exposed area.
I thought about this—but it seemed to be a lot more trouble to have TiSpeed engineer, and it would likely have cost more because then you're essentially looking at two patterns—an inside and an outside.
I've thought about a protective boot, like I've seen for shifter boots or ball joint boots, that would be heat shielding fabric, flexible, and fit over the piston boot. The boot/seal is definitely the failure point, but keeping heat out of the piston itself and the fluid will help that too.
12-03-10, 08:07 AM
#14
Those little nubs are a pain in the ***. Each manufacturer places them in a different location. Some pads don't have any nubs.
You either need to tailor the hole for the nub to the pad being used, grind off the nub on the pad or make a bigger hole in the backing plate.
You either need to tailor the hole for the nub to the pad being used, grind off the nub on the pad or make a bigger hole in the backing plate.
12-03-10, 09:33 AM
#15
I'm sending Ti Speed the pics, and they may choose to make the "hole" a slot or something, I don't know—may make more sense to simply modify your set to match the pads you usually use, if they happen to be the type that doesn't fit.
12-19-10, 03:35 PM
#16
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Just placed an order for my RB front calipers (AP Racing CP2279) and the FD rear calipers.
D283 Titanium Brake Shims Mazda RX-7 Rear
DH110 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for AP Racing Calipers Front
Total with shipping came to approx $130, a drop in the bucket when it comes to modding these things for the track..... Merry Christmas to me
D283 Titanium Brake Shims Mazda RX-7 Rear
DH110 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for AP Racing Calipers Front
Total with shipping came to approx $130, a drop in the bucket when it comes to modding these things for the track..... Merry Christmas to me
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 12-19-10 at 03:38 PM.
12-20-10, 01:16 PM
#17
Just placed an order for my RB front calipers (AP Racing CP2279) and the FD rear calipers.
D283 Titanium Brake Shims Mazda RX-7 Rear
DH110 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for AP Racing Calipers Front
Total with shipping came to approx $130, a drop in the bucket when it comes to modding these things for the track..... Merry Christmas to me
D283 Titanium Brake Shims Mazda RX-7 Rear
DH110 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for AP Racing Calipers Front
Total with shipping came to approx $130, a drop in the bucket when it comes to modding these things for the track..... Merry Christmas to me
12-28-10, 09:18 AM
#20
All,
I sent pics and exchanged emails w/ TiSpeed, and apparently the randomly-placed nub issue is not entirely uncommon with other vehicles/pads. The (easy) fix for now is just to drill an extra hole if you use a pad that places it someplace too far off stock.
TiSpeed has made an initial run of plates that are in stock, so won't be revising right away. In the future, they may also offer them in the thicker variety, which could be used in tandem with the originals for extra heat shielding when your pads are worn. I may actually pick up a 2nd set of the originals for precisely this purpose. As you know, with these, the material helps but also the air gap in insulating heat. Same for the fronts.
I sent pics and exchanged emails w/ TiSpeed, and apparently the randomly-placed nub issue is not entirely uncommon with other vehicles/pads. The (easy) fix for now is just to drill an extra hole if you use a pad that places it someplace too far off stock.
TiSpeed has made an initial run of plates that are in stock, so won't be revising right away. In the future, they may also offer them in the thicker variety, which could be used in tandem with the originals for extra heat shielding when your pads are worn. I may actually pick up a 2nd set of the originals for precisely this purpose. As you know, with these, the material helps but also the air gap in insulating heat. Same for the fronts.
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