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Suspension tuning. Help me make her faster around turns.

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Old 07-09-12 | 06:28 PM
  #1  
junito1's Avatar
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Suspension tuning. Help me make her faster around turns.

I have always been on the quest of fine tuning my suspension with limited funds.
I would love to improve my cars turn in. Im looking for my car to turn in more when i ease off throttle in long sweepers.

currently I have megan coilovers. When the car was running i set the rears hard and the fronts softer. THis seems to help quite a bit on turn in. But i want more. A lot more turn in. Almost dangerous. I want to have to stay on throttle to keep rear planted type turn in. YA dig?=D
I was thinking since i have megan track coilovers and the roll is next to non existent.
COuld i use softer swaybars? Does a softer front swaybar increase turn in? MAybe stock swaybars are beefy since stock suspension is weak? but when changed to coilovers the factory swaybars could be too much? IDK

I was thinking of experimenting with NA swaybars. Mix and matching with my tII's

COuld probably get something out of it.(need N/a poly swaybar bushing though)


Please help my car be faster around turns=D
Old 07-09-12 | 07:36 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
step one is an alignment.

camber in the front for a street car should be something like -.5 to -1, for a race car probably -2.5 to -4 depending on the tire.

front toe should be zero, castor should be 3-5

in the rear camber should be set to the minimum, -1.3 is stock, and this is fine actually.

toe in the rear really makes a huge difference, i like about 1/16" on a street car, on a race car start @zero.

the shocks should be soft enough to let the car move when you turn, if it leans too much, you need more spring.

most road racers run a larger front sway bar, and sometimes disconnect the rear
Old 07-11-12 | 04:17 PM
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If your car is lowered beyond stock height, look into "roll center correction blocks". They made an unbelievable difference on my fb, pretty sure it would also apply to the fc suspension as well.

Other than that, concentrate on slow in/fast out approach to cornering.

Just be careful that you don't end up making the handling worse at one end, to correct an issue at the other end of the car.



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Old 07-12-12 | 12:05 AM
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From: Gresham, OR
there's no roll center kit available for FC's, aside from AWR's new setup, which might just be in testing phase? either way, I dont think its really necessary on an FC unless you're super low. with normal sized 17/18" tires, dont bother. wtith 15's slammed to the ground.. yah.
Old 07-12-12 | 10:54 AM
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Roll center spacers are definitely further down the list than some other things. You also have to fix the bump steer at that point which is a nice big can of worms...

first thing is definitely a performance alignment to specs close to what j9fd3s recommended. A car will handle terrible if it's not aligned right. I don't know where j9fd3s got 3-5* of caster from... that's more or less stock. but most coilovers don't have adjustable caster anyway, so don't worry about it too much.

also, what tires/wheel size are you running?

as far as sway bars go, you probably want to get a big bar up front and leave the stock one in the back.

ST makes a big one, whitelines is slightly smaller.
Old 07-18-12 | 10:21 AM
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From: Woodbine, MD
Originally Posted by Josh18_2k
there's no roll center kit available for FC's, aside from AWR's new setup, which might just be in testing phase? either way, I dont think its really necessary on an FC unless you're super low. with normal sized 17/18" tires, dont bother. wtith 15's slammed to the ground.. yah.
Hey josh, Have you actually measured the angle of your control arms? I measured mine the other day and was surprised. even with my AWR RCAs they're about parallel to the ground (+/- 1*)

FC control arms have a tendency to look like they're at a better angle than they are because the ball joint pivots up. try measuring from the center of the bushing bolt to the center of the ball joint pivot. I think you'll be surprised.
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