as the subject says..its something im trying to get with my car...im shooting for about 300hp this winter BUT before I do that I want the car to be able to be happy with the increased power....

So Im getting all this crap:
Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors
SS brake lines
Front and Reay Sway Bars
M2Competition Trailing Arms Set
M2 Competition Toe Link Set
M2 Harness Bar / Strut Brace

What else should I be doing....The car has 68k on the suspension and feels fine...I was wondering about maybe lowering but havent done enough reading on what thatll do to the handling..Any advice on what else I should be looking into....

I mainly do all my driving on the twisties

sysadmin-racing.com

 

Definitely add the front sway bar reinforcement brace. The stock one is very weak and prone to cracking. Some companies like Racing Beat and Pettit sell the front sway bar complete with the brace. Do a search on the Widefoot sway bar mounts. I think these maybe the best.

New bushings and shocks(preferably coil-overs) will make a huge difference. Make sure you can find a good alignment shop after all the installs as well. A good performance oriented alignment makes a world of difference as well.

You might also want to look elsewhere for the toe links and trailing arms. M2 is usually never has anything in stock and it takes months to get the product. Pettit and K2RD make the same things.

Go with some good street pads and get better brake fluid to round out your braking system. You really dont need the slotted/drilled rotors IMO. Stock replacement brembos work fine. Really boils down to a cosmetic choice I think.

Good luck

 

I'd do a new set of shocks like Koni's before doing sway bars. At 68k, the stockers have probably seen better days. While you are doing the shocks, get new upper shock mounts and spring pads and new front sway bar end links. Then do the Rotary Extreme toe links and maybe a set of control/trailing arms too. Check the other suspension bushings b4 buying the trailing arms.

Springs are cool, but the main difference is lower ride height and different spring rates. Spring rates will give the car a better ride.

Barnwell House of Tires or something like that in Mineola (Long Island) does good alignments. Slip the guy a tip b4 he starts. They might even let you sit in the car while it gets aligned.

thats my 2 cents.

 

good **** guys....thanks alot..............

i cant wait to take turns with my face being slammed against my window from the g's

 

Tires will make the biggest difference in balance and handling. Whatever you do, stay with symmetric (same widths all around) wheel/tire fitments. Don't get go with asymmetric front/rear tire widths, as in narrow up front, wider in the back. That will dial in understeer.

 

I'd upgrade the shocks and the springs. Stay with stock style, unless you like to fiddle with settings, and are a suspension engineer.

Unless you plan to run really wide rear wheels/tires in back, I wouldn't bother with the trailing arms and toe links. Just be sure your rear bushings are in good shape. There are no upgrades for those, just stock replacements, and the stockers work perfectly fine.

I wouldn't fool around with stock sized brakes either. Cross drilled/slotted rotors are for looks. All you're doing is taking valuable heat-sinking iron away. Braking systems convert kinetic energy of motion to heat energy. Heat needs to be sunk and dissipated. Large brake rotors do a great job of that...more metal--the better. The drilling will only facilitate cracked rotors during heating/cooling cycles @ open-track events.

Go whole hog, and get Type RS/RZ '99 brakes all around. Best bang-for-the-buck brakes for the FD3S.