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Powerflex vs. Superpro

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Old 04-09-11 | 09:51 PM
  #151  
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Here's all the Powerflex bushings
http://store.powerflexusa.com/mazda-...hings-p71.aspx
Old 04-11-11 | 05:52 PM
  #152  
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so just a quick review for everyone on here.

I have the super pros installed (did it myself easier than most people think). I had the car corner balanced and the alignment was done as well. Car handles amazingly!! I had the stock rubber ones before with 40k miles on the car. Ride is noticeably stiffer, but not so much so that it becomes uncomfortable. I used the energy suspension grease to install them and I have to say that stuff is really really messy to work with. I did end up having to order the powerflex bushing for the rear control arm because I got the superpro kit without the two upper bushings. The car just loves the corners now, turn in is amazingly quick and the car just loves transitions from left to right.
Old 04-27-11 | 10:19 PM
  #153  
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Thanks for the review - getting new coolant seals and I'll be back on the road with essentially the same set-up

Worn out bushings kill the handling of any sports car and rubber flexes way too much for serious corner work imo
Old 04-28-11 | 10:26 AM
  #154  
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I received my full Powerflex kit from Wan the other day. He was extremely helpful in answering any questions that I had and kept me up to date with my order every step of the day.

Here are a couple pictures of the packaging and the bushings installed. everything is back on the car now and I will have a a short review up soon as well as some more pictures. If anyone has any questions about these bushings, please feel free to PM me. If you plan on going with Powerflex, I definitely recommend ordering from Wan.



Old 04-28-11 | 12:51 PM
  #155  
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Lookin good, the aluminum suspension pieces on these cars clean up nicely when you spend a little time with them. Good idea to replace the ball joint boots while you have everything apart as well
Old 04-28-11 | 01:51 PM
  #156  
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Unfortunately replacing the ball joints means buying new arms. Nearly $1500 for all 4 new from Mazda I was planning on replacing mine until I found that out.

Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Lookin good, the aluminum suspension pieces on these cars clean up nicely when you spend a little time with them. Good idea to replace the ball joint boots while you have everything apart as well
Old 04-28-11 | 03:54 PM
  #157  
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Tie rod end part #s if anyone needs it

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=90

I just bought all new rubber boots because the ball joints were fine.

Last edited by yzf-r1; 04-28-11 at 04:03 PM.
Old 04-28-11 | 04:49 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Tie rod end part #s if anyone needs it

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=90

I just bought all new rubber boots because the ball joints were fine.
Or you could spend 1/4 the money
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...Mazda+RX7+1993
Old 07-28-11 | 03:18 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Force13B
yea but some people like the fact of having oem.. plus in some cases oem is better than aftermarket, and vise versa.

sorry to bring a dead thread back to life.. but i am not in the slow slow slow process of doing my bushings when i have my 2 days off a week..

bought the 6 ton press from harbor freight and man did that suck to small to fit the rear arm.. has so much trouble trying to use it and make it fit.. got all the bushings out with some trouble, but the one that really was bad was the shock mount bushing..
It pushed out the center and left everything else in there.. had to use a flat head and a hammer to chisel the edge inward and a torch, ended up popping out took me about from 12-4 to finish.. all because the press was crap/small. the control arm bushings i pressed in by hand no issue. got the pillow ball in today and shock mount also.. shock mount gave me trouble but ended up getting it. put it back in and now gotta wait till monday to finish the rear passenger side and move to the driver side..

will be returning the 6ton press to get a 12 ton press, or is there another tool i could use to help me out? Or just go out and buy the stuff to make my own pulley?

And yes that energysuspension grease is crazy messy/sticky, but aslong as it works
Old 07-28-11 | 03:57 PM
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The 6 ton press has more than enough power to press out bushings but getting things into position can be a bit hard due to its small frame. I once did the majority of an FDs bushings on a 6 ton press but mine wasnt the "A" frame type. A 12 ton press is better because the frame is bigger giving you more room to position your parts. Having an assortment of sockets to press out the bushings really helps but there really isnt a tool you can readily buy to do this job. You gotta get creative and use what you have at your disposal while still being safe.

I have a 20 ton press and a 6 ton press. Both get used when doing bushings and each one is useful depending on the job. I dont consider my small press to be crap at all.
Old 07-28-11 | 06:08 PM
  #161  
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not saying its crap, just kinda was in a pissed off mood doing it because of the limited positioning.. Next is the LCA and the 2 pillowballs on the passenger side.. im just going to try to get creative first if not buy the 12 ton, use it then return it.. i wish i could keep it but i have no room at all in my garage with my brothers huge car in it. the lca how hard is it to take off? i was planning on doing that one first, but the part where it looks like the bolt to align the car that did not wanna turn to come off. any pointers?
Old 08-02-11 | 05:45 PM
  #162  
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good news, my dad knew some guy who has a press (found out its a 70 ton press) so i got to completely finish the back passenger side and already notice a difference just from one side, 2morrow since i am off i hope to take all the rear driver side and give it to him to do. and hope the front arent as bad as the rear so maybe i can do them myself.
Old 08-03-11 | 01:18 AM
  #163  
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The front is easier than the rear. The only thing that may hold you up is getting the ball joint free to remove the lower control arm. Other than that, its pretty easy. What problem were you having with the rear lower control arm?
Old 08-04-11 | 01:27 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Juan
The front is easier than the rear. The only thing that may hold you up is getting the ball joint free to remove the lower control arm. Other than that, its pretty easy. What problem were you having with the rear lower control arm?
didnt really have any, just wasnt sure if there was a special way to take it off since it was the camber plate(i think its called).

Finished the rear today, but took it for a drive down my bloke and i hear a loud clunking sound. exspecally when i brake, i thought i made sure i tightened everything, it got dark so if i have time ill check it out in the morning..
Old 08-04-11 | 07:14 PM
  #165  
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Found out that clunk was from the trailing arm not being tighten 100% so had little play
Old 05-15-14 | 10:12 PM
  #166  
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Bumping an old thread, has anyone used this lube?

polyurethane lube
Old 05-23-14 | 05:08 PM
  #167  
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I have SuperPro bushings on order. I saw in pics in google some of the Superpro bushing have grooves and some don't. Do I need to or should I dremel grooves to the ones that don't come with it for better lubrication and to prevent squeeking?
Old 05-12-16 | 10:43 AM
  #168  
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New bump of an old thread. I was researching the difference in the poly bushings and found this old thread on one of the Mazda MX-5 boards. Gives an interesting take on the SuperPros including the grease retention and gives shore ratings on Energy Suspension, Powerflex and Superpros.

Super Pro Suspension Bushes - Wheels, Tyres, Suspension & handling/etc - MX5Nutz Forum

Mike
Old 09-01-19 | 07:09 PM
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Yes those knurls are very important watch this video it compares both powerflex and superpro


Seems Powerflex are not well matched against Superpro
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