Pettit Fender Flares 11.5 and 335 what are the Odds? (PICS INSIDE)
#26
YOUR TRIANGLE NIGHTMARE
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From: automotive purgatory
thanks dave if i get permission from the modcity.com to post their wheel fitment guide then i will go ahead and post it so you guys can see what im talking about, in the mean time does anyone know what the factory wheels offset is for sure and also are they 16x8 or are they 16x8.5?
#28
thanks dave if i get permission from the modcity.com to post their wheel fitment guide then i will go ahead and post it so you guys can see what im talking about, in the mean time does anyone know what the factory wheels offset is for sure and also are they 16x8 or are they 16x8.5?
#29
#32
Okay, I think I have this figured out. Per the following website:
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
So, for example, my front wheels are 8.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim. So, 1/2 of this is 4.25 inches. My measurement from the backspace to the inside lip of the rim is 6.5 inches. Because my backspace is greater than my center measurement, I have a positive offset and it is 6.5 inches minus the 4.25, or 2.25 inches which converts to (in millimeters) a +57 offset.
My rears are 12.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim which is 6.25 to the centerline. My backspace measurement is 7.625 inches so again, I have a positive offset which is 7.625 - 6.25 or 1.375 inches or a + 35 offset in millimeters.
Experts correct me if I am wrong on this.
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
So, for example, my front wheels are 8.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim. So, 1/2 of this is 4.25 inches. My measurement from the backspace to the inside lip of the rim is 6.5 inches. Because my backspace is greater than my center measurement, I have a positive offset and it is 6.5 inches minus the 4.25, or 2.25 inches which converts to (in millimeters) a +57 offset.
My rears are 12.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim which is 6.25 to the centerline. My backspace measurement is 7.625 inches so again, I have a positive offset which is 7.625 - 6.25 or 1.375 inches or a + 35 offset in millimeters.
Experts correct me if I am wrong on this.
#34
#36
STELLAR WORK DAVID, VERY VERY VERY PROUD OF YOU.
HOPE THIS MAKES YOUR WEEKEND EVEN BETTER.
ABSOLUTELY GREAT
BUT ONE ISSUE.
the true definition of backspacing should be to the outside of the lip. Total spacing when done this way is measured from outside to outside for checking fender and suspension clearances. This is simply semantics but what you did in calculations is correct.
.
As long as you measured from the inside of the lip to inside of lip and did same with backspacing you are good to go.
Honestly though you should still be able to derive the same offset by measuring total spacing from outside to outside of the lips, PROVIDED the lips are both the same thickness. This means your "centerline/point of origin" should remain unchanged, both backspacing, and total spacing values will increase to offset each other.
This is helpful if a tire is already mounted on the wheel.
i.e.
8.5" would be 9.5" wide outside to outside. Adding 1/2" lip rim thickness to each side. This means your backspacing value will also increase by 1/2". wink wink.
So
9.5/2 = 4.75" = center.
Backspacing = 7.0"
7-4.75 = 2.25 = the same answer you got.
Rishie
HOPE THIS MAKES YOUR WEEKEND EVEN BETTER.
ABSOLUTELY GREAT
BUT ONE ISSUE.
the true definition of backspacing should be to the outside of the lip. Total spacing when done this way is measured from outside to outside for checking fender and suspension clearances. This is simply semantics but what you did in calculations is correct.
.
As long as you measured from the inside of the lip to inside of lip and did same with backspacing you are good to go.
Honestly though you should still be able to derive the same offset by measuring total spacing from outside to outside of the lips, PROVIDED the lips are both the same thickness. This means your "centerline/point of origin" should remain unchanged, both backspacing, and total spacing values will increase to offset each other.
This is helpful if a tire is already mounted on the wheel.
i.e.
8.5" would be 9.5" wide outside to outside. Adding 1/2" lip rim thickness to each side. This means your backspacing value will also increase by 1/2". wink wink.
So
9.5/2 = 4.75" = center.
Backspacing = 7.0"
7-4.75 = 2.25 = the same answer you got.
Rishie
Okay, I think I have this figured out. Per the following website:
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
So, for example, my front wheels are 8.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim. So, 1/2 of this is 4.25 inches. My measurement from the backspace to the inside lip of the rim is 6.5 inches. Because my backspace is greater than my center measurement, I have a positive offset and it is 6.5 inches minus the 4.25, or 2.25 inches which converts to (in millimeters) a +57 offset.
My rears are 12.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim which is 6.25 to the centerline. My backspace measurement is 7.625 inches so again, I have a positive offset which is 7.625 - 6.25 or 1.375 inches or a + 35 offset in millimeters.
Experts correct me if I am wrong on this.
https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
So, for example, my front wheels are 8.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim. So, 1/2 of this is 4.25 inches. My measurement from the backspace to the inside lip of the rim is 6.5 inches. Because my backspace is greater than my center measurement, I have a positive offset and it is 6.5 inches minus the 4.25, or 2.25 inches which converts to (in millimeters) a +57 offset.
My rears are 12.5 inches measured from the inside of the rim which is 6.25 to the centerline. My backspace measurement is 7.625 inches so again, I have a positive offset which is 7.625 - 6.25 or 1.375 inches or a + 35 offset in millimeters.
Experts correct me if I am wrong on this.
Last edited by ARD T2; 02-12-10 at 10:12 PM.
#37
YOUR TRIANGLE NIGHTMARE
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From: automotive purgatory
thanks again rishie. guys i wanted to comment as well. i called rishie the other day and even though i didnt order from him he still helped me. I can say without a shadow of a doubt i will be ordering exclusively from him from now on.
#40
Also, thanks for the expert correction to my calculations as I really don't know what I am doing. I'll rerun the calcs as my backspace measurements were to the outside lip so that will change things.
#41
YOUR TRIANGLE NIGHTMARE
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 807
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From: automotive purgatory
yea the guys at iconz still cant figure out what im teeling them if they cant figure it out this week they can forget the order and Rishie will have a new order lol. at this point i almost hope they **** up. lol. now i just have to go over the measurements again with them. i hope i can find the measurements that Rishie gave me.
#43
Oh so sexy.
ok rotor, just cancel the order with them and compromise on a style I can get.
I can't believe they can't figure this **** out. If they can't figure this **** out "WHY ARE THEY MAKING WHEELS?". Seriously lame, i thought this was all handled.
I think I can figure out the measurements i told you. they are in an email somewhere.
Rishie
ok rotor, just cancel the order with them and compromise on a style I can get.
I can't believe they can't figure this **** out. If they can't figure this **** out "WHY ARE THEY MAKING WHEELS?". Seriously lame, i thought this was all handled.
I think I can figure out the measurements i told you. they are in an email somewhere.
Rishie
#44
50 mm is about 2 inches, so I'd guess that this is in mm.
Also, "rim width" for tire fit is always inside to inside. Even measured in inches.
gd
#45
OK so let me clarify this offset thing real quick.
+50 is in units of "mm". Almost 2".
+0 = centerline of the wheel
The more positive the offset means the more "sunken" or pushed in the wheel will appear. i.e. moves closer to suspension and farther away from the fender.
The only logical way to do this would be to "machine" material away for the centerline, thereby pushing the wheel inward. The distance of this "machining" is the offset whether measured in mm or inches.
However 99% of wheels out there have offset measured metrically in mm.
When inches are used that is typically done in reference to front and backspacing. By obtaining both front and backspacing values you can interpolate the offset in inches and then convert metrically to mm if you want to produce the equivalence.
We've gone through some of those calculations above. It's definitely not rocket science or quantum physics. You guys just need to see its practical application.
Rishie
+50 is in units of "mm". Almost 2".
+0 = centerline of the wheel
The more positive the offset means the more "sunken" or pushed in the wheel will appear. i.e. moves closer to suspension and farther away from the fender.
The only logical way to do this would be to "machine" material away for the centerline, thereby pushing the wheel inward. The distance of this "machining" is the offset whether measured in mm or inches.
However 99% of wheels out there have offset measured metrically in mm.
When inches are used that is typically done in reference to front and backspacing. By obtaining both front and backspacing values you can interpolate the offset in inches and then convert metrically to mm if you want to produce the equivalence.
We've gone through some of those calculations above. It's definitely not rocket science or quantum physics. You guys just need to see its practical application.
Rishie
#46
So if you guys want a broken down example.
FD OEM 16x8 +50.
8" Wide from inside of lip to inside of lip = total spacing that the tire can consume within the lips' walls. Tryin' to be laymen here.
9" wide from outside of lip to outside of lip = Total outer spacing of wheel.
We'll work with the 9" measurement since that's more practical when building a custom wheel and taking clearance measurements under the car.
So at 9" TS, Centerline is at 4.5". Now if it has 2" of offset = 50mm then
2.5" is the amount of front spacing and 6.5" is the amount of backspacing. Making a total of 9" in spacing.
RULES OF THUMB
TS = Total spacing
FS = Front Spacing
BS = Back Spacing
IF FS < BS = POSITIVE OFFSET
IF FS > BS = NEGATIVE OFFSET
IF FS = BS = ZERO OFFSET
Rishie
FD OEM 16x8 +50.
8" Wide from inside of lip to inside of lip = total spacing that the tire can consume within the lips' walls. Tryin' to be laymen here.
9" wide from outside of lip to outside of lip = Total outer spacing of wheel.
We'll work with the 9" measurement since that's more practical when building a custom wheel and taking clearance measurements under the car.
So at 9" TS, Centerline is at 4.5". Now if it has 2" of offset = 50mm then
2.5" is the amount of front spacing and 6.5" is the amount of backspacing. Making a total of 9" in spacing.
RULES OF THUMB
TS = Total spacing
FS = Front Spacing
BS = Back Spacing
IF FS < BS = POSITIVE OFFSET
IF FS > BS = NEGATIVE OFFSET
IF FS = BS = ZERO OFFSET
Rishie
#48
Unfortunately i haven't been working with many domestic manufacturers. the only company I would want to work with is Forgeline in terms of 18" wheel options. I've had problems with a lot of "custom" wheels that are made in socal. Miami is popping out some real nice stuff in this segment but they are all 19" and up I think.
Check forgeline, i think they have a style you like.
Rishie
Check forgeline, i think they have a style you like.
Rishie
#50
lol, Oh man we're just causing more and more confusion here.
Ok so any normal laymen person is going ot use the "inner to inner" lip since that's what is printed.
So allrotors wheels are 13" in total spacing but considered 18x12's when written in this format: diameter x width
For Japanese wheels we don't have to worry about all that crap. It's so much simpler.
Rishie
Ok so any normal laymen person is going ot use the "inner to inner" lip since that's what is printed.
So allrotors wheels are 13" in total spacing but considered 18x12's when written in this format: diameter x width
For Japanese wheels we don't have to worry about all that crap. It's so much simpler.
Rishie
Last edited by ARD T2; 03-13-10 at 01:12 AM.