RETed

Anything between +40 and +30 should easily fit back there.



Hard to say...
There was some guy complaining that his tires hit the springs.
He had pics, and it looked like the springs were just too soft and compressing too much.


-Ted

RETed

Your questions are a bit confusing...
If you have the 17" x 8.0", +30, that should be just about perfect with the 235 / 45 / 17 up front.

Use the 17" x 8.0", +40 in the back, since you cannot fit them up front without spacers.


-Ted

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, what I meant to say was that I have two sets of wheels, one set is 17X8 +40 all around, and the other is 17x7+30 front and 17x8 +30 rear. I should've been more clear. I was gonna mount the 235/45/17's on the first set and find tires to go with the second set.

stormshadow531

iTrader: (5)

i found these pics from another forum. this guy is running

235/40/17 +35 in the front

255/40/17 +35 in the rear





the only problem i have with this is that i thought that you can run 45 series sidewalls to be closer to stock ratio.
i want to go 225/40/18 8J +30 and 255/40/18 9J +35
i'm not sure if that offset will fit in the rear

Prod

Will 225/50/16s fit without rubbing on stock 16x7 '87 TII rims?

RETed

225 / 40 / 18 is a good size.

255 / 40 / 18 is a little big.

265 / 35 / 18 is a better size.

I got a chart here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/RT/tires.htm


-Ted

RETed

Depends on the tire...

Some tire models have very fat, bulgy sidewalls.
These will tend to hit the insides - i.e. shocks / springs.


-Ted

StarScreaM2k1

i think i can get a sweet deal on rims.. but i need to know if these will fit on a FC with no spacer and no rolling of fenders on stock suspension (going with RB or Eibach springs this season tho)

front 17 x 8.5 +24 offset
rear 17 x 9.5 +38 offset

Please let me know ASAP.

Black91n/a

It'll most likely hit the front fenders if you use proper sized tires. Maybe with a stretched tire they'll fit. It'll also depend on camber and ride height.

My guess = No in front.

Rears need spacers.

StarScreaM2k1

weird... reted's site said they would be ok, its in a link a few pages back.

RETed

Yes, it'll hit the fender lip if you use the recommended tire size of 245 or 255 wide.


-Ted

RotaryAE86

hmmm how bout 17x8 +12 up front and 17x9 +25 in the rear ( TII) tires im going with probably 225-45's in the front and 235-45's in the back

RotaryAE86

oh, and how does a 120 page thread not have a sticky???

Black91n/a

You'll hit the front fenders with those offsets. Go with the reccomended offsets, they're reccomended for a reason, because they fit properly and leave the most leeway for large tires. 17x8 30mm front, 17x9 30mm rear. On the 9" wheel a 255/40 or 245/40 would fit better and will be closer to the stock diameter for better acceration and a correct speedo.

RotaryAE86

thats okay, ill roll my fenders

Black91n/a

You'll need to do more than just roll the lip, you'll need to pull them out too.

unicorn_squad

run a 215/45 in front, and about -2 degrees camber, and then pull the fenders out a little and you should be fine. rears will be no problem.

rears will fit fine. fronts should fit with a 225 tire(will be close to the fender), maybe 235 if you roll the fenders a little.

RotaryAE86

215-45's will work up front, can you get NRCA's or RCA's for FC's?

unicorn_squad

no. no such thing as RCA's for FC's. But....
to help with bump steer, you can get aftermarket tie rods, which are longer, and stick down farther(some have changeable spacers in them), and help straighten out the steering arms.
and to help straighten the lower control arm after lower the car a lot, you can bolt the lower ball joint to the top of the LCA instead of the bottom of it where it comes from the factory. at least, this is what I have done with my car(its a track *****), and it works great.

Black91n/a

It doesn't matter what side of the control arm the ball joint is bolted to, all that matters is the line connecting the pivots, the arm can be any shape, but the pivots will still be in the same places and it'll act the same way.

There's no need for those fancy tie rod ends, maybe with the tie rod shims it'll induce bump steer, but the stock FC doesn't have problems with that at normal ride heights anyway.

unicorn_squad

edit: okay, I see what you're saying. but changing where the lower ball joint mounts still changes the angle of the LCA quite a bit, which should still be better than without it switched around, no? ... although it might not have quite the same effect....

do ANY cars have problems with bump steer at stock ride height? if so.... wierd...

but yeah, aftermarket tie rods would be totally unneccesary (for that reason anyway) for a car at stock ride height.... and so would RCA's...

all I'm saying is that those 2 things I mentioned will give the same effects(or close) as RCA's do for an AE86, or similar(in suspension design) car.

RETed

The problem with all those fancy-schmancy spherical rod ends is that they WEAR OUT.
Faster versus stock units...
You'd be surprised of how much slop you get after just a few thousand miles.
Now race cars are not a problem, cause parts are inspected and replaced in a very strict schedule.
On a street driven, daily driver, I'd worry...

Bump steer is bump steer.
Even stock ride-height cars have them.
It's all part of suspension geometry, and it cannot be avoided with conventional (front) suspension and steering systems.
If you understand what bump steer is, then you understand you can only minimize it and not totally eliminate it (unless we're talking about F1 kind of suspension travel rates under half and inch!).


-Ted

Black91n/a

Changing the mounting really doesn't affect the suspension geometry, to do that you need to change the pivot points. It doesn't affect camber, roll center or anything, because all you're changing is the shape of the arm, which is irrelevant. The only relevant thing is the pivot point locations.

You can most definetely change the roll center, AWR makes roll center blocks for the front (never seen them, don't know what they are exactly) but to change it in the rear is directly linked to camber, as it's a function of the trailing arm inclination, which is what controls camber.

I didn't say the FC doesn't have bumpsteer, it's just not a problem.

A note on F1 suspensions: they don't use moving joints of any kind on the inboard liks, they rely on the engineered flex in the arm itself.

13angryB's

iTrader: (5)

I was on my local forum looking to trade for a 2nd set of wheels & tires for drag racing, and someone just offered these centerlines with MT E/T's off a 67 camero.

will they fit, or work decent for my FC? 1990 GTU-TII swap,
I have stock N/A suspension & brakes.

they're 15x8 26x11.5 sorry I don't know the offset.
the guy says 3 or 4" of backspacing?

do the tires look too worn?, I don't know anything about drag radials.

Thanks!
Also, is there any way 14x7's will fit on the front of my GTU?

I know they're ugly,
i'm just trying to squeeze a 12.5 outa the stock turbo for a cheep a possible.
i'm currently at 13.32 @ 105.11 mph on street tires, not aired down.
what do you think?

13angryB's

iTrader: (5)

Ooops, that's like -12 offset.. haha, like nevermind.
too bad I can't delete all that^!