The Official FC Wheel Fitment Thread
#2976
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ok i am interested in getting new wheels for my 1988 convertible. i got the stock 17 white meat slicers and was looking for at least a two piece forged aluminum 5-6 spoke wheel and finally found what i was looking for. Gram Lights has a model that will fit that, the 57F pro, smallest diameter is 18in but the problem is that they have all sorts of sizes for width and offset.
width size : 7.5, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0
offset : -2, -4, -14, +3, +8, +9, +12, +15, +18, +21, +22, +24, +27, +28, +30, +34, +37, +40, +43, +47(all of the offsets go with any of the width sizes)
also i don't have rubber in mind yet but was just wondering what combination of width+offset(and rubber if you feel like it) would any1 else think about doing. anything would help. also heres a link of the site
http://group5.rpmware.com/gram-light...o/g-52775.aspx
width size : 7.5, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0
offset : -2, -4, -14, +3, +8, +9, +12, +15, +18, +21, +22, +24, +27, +28, +30, +34, +37, +40, +43, +47(all of the offsets go with any of the width sizes)
also i don't have rubber in mind yet but was just wondering what combination of width+offset(and rubber if you feel like it) would any1 else think about doing. anything would help. also heres a link of the site
http://group5.rpmware.com/gram-light...o/g-52775.aspx
on stock fenders, a 8" front wheel with a +30 to +35 offset is very common with a 235 wide tire for the front. some people run a wider aftermarket fender and fit a 9" wheel with around a +15 offset and a 245 or 255 tire.
for the back you can fit a 10" wide wheel with a +30 to +35 offset and up to a 275 wide tire with just a little fender lip rolling. with a +25 offset and some roll/pull on the fender you can fit a 295/30R18 for sure, even on a 10.5" wheel.
a lot of fitment has to do with suspension parts and settings, hard to say what will and what wont, especially without specifics mentioned, hell, even tire size and models make a huge difference in fitment.
#2977
smitty808
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i saw these works for sale and iwas wondering if i should pick them up, but the problem is the wheels are really wide and i got a fc.....here's the specs
Front Wheels: 18×9JJ Offset +22
Rear Wheels: 18×10JJ Offset +16
will these fit?? i know i'm gonna have to go with wider fenders, but that's ok. but will these still fit if i roll or have wide fenders??
Front Wheels: 18×9JJ Offset +22
Rear Wheels: 18×10JJ Offset +16
will these fit?? i know i'm gonna have to go with wider fenders, but that's ok. but will these still fit if i roll or have wide fenders??
#2979
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sounds like a good setup for 20mm front and 30mm rear fenders.
#2980
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also what about these specs:
FRONT: 18x8.5 offset: +35 TIRE SIZE: 225x35x18
REAR: 18x9.5 offset: +42 TIRE SIZE: 275x40x18
would these fit????? if not, what would i have to do to get these wheels to fit? thanx!
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#2981
i'm not sure on the tire size, but what do you think would be the appropriate size tire, if say, the wheel could fit? i've got kei coilovers for susp.
also what about these specs:
FRONT: 18x8.5 offset: +35 TIRE SIZE: 225x35x18
REAR: 18x9.5 offset: +42 TIRE SIZE: 275x40x18
would these fit????? if not, what would i have to do to get these wheels to fit? thanx!![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also what about these specs:
FRONT: 18x8.5 offset: +35 TIRE SIZE: 225x35x18
REAR: 18x9.5 offset: +42 TIRE SIZE: 275x40x18
would these fit????? if not, what would i have to do to get these wheels to fit? thanx!
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
front: 18x8.5 +38 with 225/40/18
rear: 18x9.5 +38 with 255/35/18
I've just test fitted the fronts and I'm looking to need a 10mm spacer to clear my Stance coilovers. The rears fit fine on mine with a little bit of room to spare. I'm also running rear steer eliminators also, so I haven't had any rubbing issues.
Your rears are gonna be very close, and your fronts might need spaced out. I don't know how your coilovers compare to mine, so I can't be to sure. You might want to check into your tires sizes, I'm not sure if you meant a 225/40 with a 275/35.
#2982
i'm not sure on the tire size, but what do you think would be the appropriate size tire, if say, the wheel could fit? i've got kei coilovers for susp.
also what about these specs:
FRONT: 18x8.5 offset: +35 TIRE SIZE: 225x35x18
REAR: 18x9.5 offset: +42 TIRE SIZE: 275x40x18
would these fit????? if not, what would i have to do to get these wheels to fit? thanx!![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also what about these specs:
FRONT: 18x8.5 offset: +35 TIRE SIZE: 225x35x18
REAR: 18x9.5 offset: +42 TIRE SIZE: 275x40x18
would these fit????? if not, what would i have to do to get these wheels to fit? thanx!
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
225/40/18
275/35/18
A 5mm spacer all around should do. Then you can fit 235 or 245 tire in front and up to a 275 tire in the rear with rolled fenders.
#2983
always steps forward never back, and im willing to wait till i have all the pieces before its ready to shine with that said i have new fenders in mind because the ones i got are the 10th aniv. with badges(long story) anyway im selling those fenders and new wider ones are looking good so if i want to go with a wider tire i could the question is should i?
Last edited by ThatsanFC; 02-26-08 at 12:17 AM. Reason: added quote
#2984
The R32 GT-R wheels are 16" x 8.0", +30.
Run a 225 / 50 / 16, and it's perfect (up front).
Don't expect "flush fitment" in the rears though, but it does fit in the rears with no drama.
This is really a FAQ...
There's a lot of info out there, and I would suggest looking for it.
Pictures help out a LOT here.
Offset - the distance of the mounting plane versus the theoretical centerline of the wheel width, in millimeters
Thus, a 16" x 8.0" with "0 offset" would have the mounting flange positioned exactly in the center of the wheel - 4" from the front; 4" from the rear; 8.0" total rim width
A 16" x 8.0", with +35 offset would push the mounting flange position further OUTWARD by 35mm versus direct center, so the wheel would sit 35mm further INWARD versus a wheel with 16" x 8.0", +0 specs.
A 16" x 8.0", with -10 offset would push the mounting flange position further INWARD by 10mm versus direct center, so the wheel would sit 10mm further OUTWARD versus a wheel with 16" x 8.0", +0 specs.
Negative numbers are also called "negative offsets" or "reverse offsets".
These wheels tend to stick out of the fenders a lot and popular with wire wheels and lowriders.
-Ted
Run a 225 / 50 / 16, and it's perfect (up front).
Don't expect "flush fitment" in the rears though, but it does fit in the rears with no drama.
This is really a FAQ...
There's a lot of info out there, and I would suggest looking for it.
Pictures help out a LOT here.
Offset - the distance of the mounting plane versus the theoretical centerline of the wheel width, in millimeters
Thus, a 16" x 8.0" with "0 offset" would have the mounting flange positioned exactly in the center of the wheel - 4" from the front; 4" from the rear; 8.0" total rim width
A 16" x 8.0", with +35 offset would push the mounting flange position further OUTWARD by 35mm versus direct center, so the wheel would sit 35mm further INWARD versus a wheel with 16" x 8.0", +0 specs.
A 16" x 8.0", with -10 offset would push the mounting flange position further INWARD by 10mm versus direct center, so the wheel would sit 10mm further OUTWARD versus a wheel with 16" x 8.0", +0 specs.
Negative numbers are also called "negative offsets" or "reverse offsets".
These wheels tend to stick out of the fenders a lot and popular with wire wheels and lowriders.
-Ted
#2985
definately max performance lol if i went with durriblity i would just be stuck with with wack tires for longer. i want to utillize every oppertunity to increase my FCs potential.
always steps forward never back, and im willing to wait till i have all the pieces before its ready to shine with that said i have new fenders in mind because the ones i got are the 10th aniv. with badges(long story) anyway im selling those fenders and new wider ones are looking good so if i want to go with a wider tire i could the question is should i?
always steps forward never back, and im willing to wait till i have all the pieces before its ready to shine with that said i have new fenders in mind because the ones i got are the 10th aniv. with badges(long story) anyway im selling those fenders and new wider ones are looking good so if i want to go with a wider tire i could the question is should i?
I think the GT-R wheels in the back could use a 12.5 mm spacer, for a flush look, by my calculations.
#2986
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With wider front fenders, maybe 9" wide and 255's all around. You'd need to run a lower offset in the front or use spacers to get the best fittment though.
For good max performance tires that won't break the bank then check out Dunlop Z1's. They match the performance of the Bridgestone RE01R's at a lower price, but I don't know how they'll compare for milage. Check out the Tire Rack for the test.
Honestly, if max performance is what you want, 17's are a better choice. A Grassroots Motorsports tire test recently showed that 17's were the fasest on a new BMW 325i using the same tire model, the same width wheel and tire and the same wheel model compared to the 18's. They're using the same sort of sizes we do, so it's a pretty comparable result.
For good max performance tires that won't break the bank then check out Dunlop Z1's. They match the performance of the Bridgestone RE01R's at a lower price, but I don't know how they'll compare for milage. Check out the Tire Rack for the test.
Honestly, if max performance is what you want, 17's are a better choice. A Grassroots Motorsports tire test recently showed that 17's were the fasest on a new BMW 325i using the same tire model, the same width wheel and tire and the same wheel model compared to the 18's. They're using the same sort of sizes we do, so it's a pretty comparable result.
#2988
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Admittedly they used a narrower (by 0.5") 16" wheel and a 205 width tire vs a 225 on an 8" wheel for the 17's and 18's. The 17's won by about 2/10ths on a 43 second course vs the other two, which were reasonably close in time to each other. The point is that the 18's were slower than the 17's, so bigger isn't necessarily better.
Don't S2000's use a 5x100 bolt pattern?
If they'd tested against some 225/50/15's on 15x8's they'd probably be faster, but the point was to test a reasonable street setup.
Many people would consider a 16" to be too small visually, and would prefer the looks of the 17's, which is a decent compromise as you're not giving up much/anything in performance.
Don't S2000's use a 5x100 bolt pattern?
If they'd tested against some 225/50/15's on 15x8's they'd probably be faster, but the point was to test a reasonable street setup.
Many people would consider a 16" to be too small visually, and would prefer the looks of the 17's, which is a decent compromise as you're not giving up much/anything in performance.
#2989
It is getting harder to find the newer max performance summer tires in 16" sizes as the trend is toward larger diameter rims.
That and the fact that it is nearly impossible to find any 16" rim wider than 8" or tire wider than 245 without a tall drag oriented sidewall is a good reason why the best compromise is currently 17".
Thanks to Mustang, we have lots of sticky wide 17" tires available.
there are some light wide used Japanese rims in our offsets thanks to the popularity of Skylines/Sylvias.
That and the fact that it is nearly impossible to find any 16" rim wider than 8" or tire wider than 245 without a tall drag oriented sidewall is a good reason why the best compromise is currently 17".
Thanks to Mustang, we have lots of sticky wide 17" tires available.
there are some light wide used Japanese rims in our offsets thanks to the popularity of Skylines/Sylvias.
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#2990
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Ok I Want to go with eather a 16x8 or a 16x9 steel rim all around But im not sure on tire size maybe you guys could help me out.
But i cant deside if i want to go with 15s with the same width because they are cheaper
Im going to get them from Diamondracingwheels
with a unpainted center and chrome outer ring
thes are going to be a autoX rims and another set for roadracing both
with slicks.
But i cant deside if i want to go with 15s with the same width because they are cheaper
Im going to get them from Diamondracingwheels
with a unpainted center and chrome outer ring
thes are going to be a autoX rims and another set for roadracing both
with slicks.
#2992
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no but they do have amazingly high offsets, like +52 or something like that.
most subarus have 5x100 and so do '04 STIs but thats about it afaik.
yeah I guess youre right on the lack of wide tires and wheels in 16", its probably only used jdm wheels on ebay that I've seen with 16x8 and 16x9 for the FC that would fit well and the choices for tires are pretty lacking, although the S2000 stock 16" tires can be fit over a wider wheel just fine and they are such a high quality tire I wouldnt have any problem running them for a street tire on a nicely equipped and lightweight FC... same weight or less than an S2000 and it would handle amazingly on the S2000's tire setup but on a 16x8/16x9 wheel combo. i guess thats a setup thats always appealed to me
most subarus have 5x100 and so do '04 STIs but thats about it afaik.
yeah I guess youre right on the lack of wide tires and wheels in 16", its probably only used jdm wheels on ebay that I've seen with 16x8 and 16x9 for the FC that would fit well and the choices for tires are pretty lacking, although the S2000 stock 16" tires can be fit over a wider wheel just fine and they are such a high quality tire I wouldnt have any problem running them for a street tire on a nicely equipped and lightweight FC... same weight or less than an S2000 and it would handle amazingly on the S2000's tire setup but on a 16x8/16x9 wheel combo. i guess thats a setup thats always appealed to me
#2994
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15x10's with 275/35/15 Hoosiers FTW! For a street usable setup some 15x8's (or 15x7.5's if you want to run in STS2) with some Toyo R1R's in the soon to be 225/45/15 size will probably be an excellent setup.
#2995
who makes lightweight 15 x 10 rims???? Miata guys would probably know the answer to that.
I hope Hoosier decides to make a 275/35/15 R6 tires as well, would be nice to have during the road sessions.
Just doing some thinking right now, once I build the GTUs, I'd ideally like to have four sets of tires, I have questions regarding two sets.
SCCA STS2 - 15 x 7.5 with Toyo R1R 225/45/15 (If it performs well when it comes out)
MotorsportsNE AutoX/3 Lap Time Trials - 15 x 10 with Hoosier A6 275/35/15 (What offset clears Ground Control/Bilsteins on 10's? +10? +5? +0?)
What would be the best budget choice for:
HPDE Tires - F: 17 x 8, +30, 225/45/17 R: 17 x 9, +30, 255/40/17 Budget Highway R-Compound (100 Treadwear) Toyo R888? Nitto NT-01? Yokohama A048? Kumho V710? (Since I'm already going to be using the Hoosiers, I should use this as my TT tire instead)
Driving on the street: 16 x 7, +20, 205/55/16 tires Extreme Performance Summer Tires: Falken Azenis RT-615? Kumho Ecsta MX? What else performs at that level, in this size? 205/45/16 or 205/50/16 would be preferable.
Or should I just use the 17 x 8, 17 x 9 100 treadwear combo for the street and HPDE, and just drive to HPDE's on 16 x 7, +20, cheap budget performance all-seasons like the General Exclaim UHP? I'd ideally like to use my 17" wheels as my street wheel.
I hope Hoosier decides to make a 275/35/15 R6 tires as well, would be nice to have during the road sessions.
Just doing some thinking right now, once I build the GTUs, I'd ideally like to have four sets of tires, I have questions regarding two sets.
SCCA STS2 - 15 x 7.5 with Toyo R1R 225/45/15 (If it performs well when it comes out)
MotorsportsNE AutoX/3 Lap Time Trials - 15 x 10 with Hoosier A6 275/35/15 (What offset clears Ground Control/Bilsteins on 10's? +10? +5? +0?)
What would be the best budget choice for:
HPDE Tires - F: 17 x 8, +30, 225/45/17 R: 17 x 9, +30, 255/40/17 Budget Highway R-Compound (100 Treadwear) Toyo R888? Nitto NT-01? Yokohama A048? Kumho V710? (Since I'm already going to be using the Hoosiers, I should use this as my TT tire instead)
Driving on the street: 16 x 7, +20, 205/55/16 tires Extreme Performance Summer Tires: Falken Azenis RT-615? Kumho Ecsta MX? What else performs at that level, in this size? 205/45/16 or 205/50/16 would be preferable.
Or should I just use the 17 x 8, 17 x 9 100 treadwear combo for the street and HPDE, and just drive to HPDE's on 16 x 7, +20, cheap budget performance all-seasons like the General Exclaim UHP? I'd ideally like to use my 17" wheels as my street wheel.
Last edited by Roen; 02-29-08 at 10:44 AM.
#2996
From just doing a light amount of research:
NT-01's are the cheapest, but suck in the rain, big time.
R888's are next on the scale in terms of the price, are the newest tire, and have provisions to handle rain. In terms of performance, they're about equal between the three.
A048's are the oldest, can handle both rain and dry, but are prohibitively expensive.
R888's FTW? I won't be driving my car in the rain if I know it's coming, but I'm afraid of getting caught out in the rain on the Nitto's, during normal weekend light street use. I'm not as afraid at a track since I'll have the General's with me if I decide to go that route, but I wouldn't want to have to wait around during the spontaneous rain storm.
NT-01's are the cheapest, but suck in the rain, big time.
R888's are next on the scale in terms of the price, are the newest tire, and have provisions to handle rain. In terms of performance, they're about equal between the three.
A048's are the oldest, can handle both rain and dry, but are prohibitively expensive.
R888's FTW? I won't be driving my car in the rain if I know it's coming, but I'm afraid of getting caught out in the rain on the Nitto's, during normal weekend light street use. I'm not as afraid at a track since I'll have the General's with me if I decide to go that route, but I wouldn't want to have to wait around during the spontaneous rain storm.
#2997
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15x10, 15.5lbs, multiple offsets, $250/ea: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ries_82_Wheels
You probably need a 0 offset, as that's what the EP guys use with their cantilever slicks which are about the same width. I thought they had built some 275/35/15's in the R6 compound. If you're feeling rich then Kodiak makes some very nice wheels ($530/ea).
I wouldn't worry so much about the NT-01 in the rain. They'll all suck in the rain compared to street tires, but they've all got tread so should be ok. They'd be my choice.
I'd say go with some 15x8's and 225/45/15 NT-01's for HPDE's, as you get the advantages of a lower CG height, shorter gearing, lighter weight and they'll fit in the back much better.
For street I like 17x8's, they look good, you don't loose too much accel over smaller wheels and there's a ton of good tires in appropriate sizes. A smoking deal on tires is if you can find some take-off Bridgestone RE070's from an STi (225/45/17). They're super sticky, long lived, have stiff sidewalls, take track abuse like it's nothing, but are a bit on the heavy side and are expensive when bought new. You can usually find some barely used sets on NASIOC or other boards for a huge savings over new. That's what I've got and I really like them.
If you don't need the extra traction from the wider wheels and tires in the back then it's best to dump them in favor of the same setup used in front. You'll get better handling and more speed, but I'm sure you knew that allready.
You probably need a 0 offset, as that's what the EP guys use with their cantilever slicks which are about the same width. I thought they had built some 275/35/15's in the R6 compound. If you're feeling rich then Kodiak makes some very nice wheels ($530/ea).
I wouldn't worry so much about the NT-01 in the rain. They'll all suck in the rain compared to street tires, but they've all got tread so should be ok. They'd be my choice.
I'd say go with some 15x8's and 225/45/15 NT-01's for HPDE's, as you get the advantages of a lower CG height, shorter gearing, lighter weight and they'll fit in the back much better.
For street I like 17x8's, they look good, you don't loose too much accel over smaller wheels and there's a ton of good tires in appropriate sizes. A smoking deal on tires is if you can find some take-off Bridgestone RE070's from an STi (225/45/17). They're super sticky, long lived, have stiff sidewalls, take track abuse like it's nothing, but are a bit on the heavy side and are expensive when bought new. You can usually find some barely used sets on NASIOC or other boards for a huge savings over new. That's what I've got and I really like them.
If you don't need the extra traction from the wider wheels and tires in the back then it's best to dump them in favor of the same setup used in front. You'll get better handling and more speed, but I'm sure you knew that allready.
#2998
That's actually a good idea, I didn't think of using 15 x 8, 225's.....so who wants some GTUs wheels???
I have to see if Toyo makes the R888 in 225/45/15, I don't think many tire manufacturers do. Plus, the size is a hell of a lot cheaper.
EDIT: Seems like they do.
I wanted to reuse the GTUs wheels, but I guess there's no sense in using them if I don't have to.
Here's another question, what works best with a snow tire, a heavier wheel or a lighter wheel? Intuition tells me heavier.
I hadn't thought about lightly-used tires, I was just thinking about using high grip tires in case I get goaded into a friendly race in our back roads by one of my friends. That's why I wanted to run the 17 x 8, 17 x 9 R-comps on the street. I guess I could use Daily Drive tires on those things instead....
The reason why I have those wheel were that they were going to go onto a turbo car, but I happen to let that car go while still retaining the wheels. I wonder if an 17 x 8.5, +30 with a 235/45/17 or a 235/40/17 tire would fit under stock fenders and Ground Control coilovers with enough clearance. If it doesn't, at least I won't beat myself up for not buying the 8.5" rims. (I think that's a Ted question)
General Exclaim UHP are $342 brand new in 225/45 and 245/40, but I wonder how they would do in a spirited driving situation.
I wish there were direct reviews comparing the R888 and the NT-01. I would much rather pay the extra $32/set for better grip.
I guess the choice now lies between:
Sell GTUs wheels, buy 15 x 8, +30 wheels. Buy 225/45/15 Toyo R888 for HPDE and 225/45/17, 245/40/17 General Exclaim UHP for steet.
or
Buy 225/45/17, 255/40/17 Toyo R888 for HPDE/Street and buy 205/55/16 General Exclaim UHP for long distance driving
EDIT: I know remember why I didn't want to get HPDE specific tires. If that was the case, I would just get 225/50/15 Kumho V710's....I wish they'd make a 225/45/15. Damn, this **** gets expensive....fast. Though, that's not necessarily a problem.
So the choice now lies between:
Sell GTUs wheels, buy 15 x 8, +30 wheels. Buy 225/45/15 Kumho V710 for HPDE and 225/45/17, 245/40/17 General Exclaim UHP for steet.
or
Buy 225/45/17, 255/40/17 Toyo R888 for HPDE/Street and buy 205/55/16 General Exclaim UHP for long distance driving
OFF TOPIC: I guess the SCCA no metal bushing rule prevents the use of AWR Needle Bearings in the front control arms and Spherical Bearings in the rear control arms, eh?
I have to see if Toyo makes the R888 in 225/45/15, I don't think many tire manufacturers do. Plus, the size is a hell of a lot cheaper.
EDIT: Seems like they do.
I wanted to reuse the GTUs wheels, but I guess there's no sense in using them if I don't have to.
Here's another question, what works best with a snow tire, a heavier wheel or a lighter wheel? Intuition tells me heavier.
I hadn't thought about lightly-used tires, I was just thinking about using high grip tires in case I get goaded into a friendly race in our back roads by one of my friends. That's why I wanted to run the 17 x 8, 17 x 9 R-comps on the street. I guess I could use Daily Drive tires on those things instead....
The reason why I have those wheel were that they were going to go onto a turbo car, but I happen to let that car go while still retaining the wheels. I wonder if an 17 x 8.5, +30 with a 235/45/17 or a 235/40/17 tire would fit under stock fenders and Ground Control coilovers with enough clearance. If it doesn't, at least I won't beat myself up for not buying the 8.5" rims. (I think that's a Ted question)
General Exclaim UHP are $342 brand new in 225/45 and 245/40, but I wonder how they would do in a spirited driving situation.
I wish there were direct reviews comparing the R888 and the NT-01. I would much rather pay the extra $32/set for better grip.
I guess the choice now lies between:
Sell GTUs wheels, buy 15 x 8, +30 wheels. Buy 225/45/15 Toyo R888 for HPDE and 225/45/17, 245/40/17 General Exclaim UHP for steet.
or
Buy 225/45/17, 255/40/17 Toyo R888 for HPDE/Street and buy 205/55/16 General Exclaim UHP for long distance driving
EDIT: I know remember why I didn't want to get HPDE specific tires. If that was the case, I would just get 225/50/15 Kumho V710's....I wish they'd make a 225/45/15. Damn, this **** gets expensive....fast. Though, that's not necessarily a problem.
So the choice now lies between:
Sell GTUs wheels, buy 15 x 8, +30 wheels. Buy 225/45/15 Kumho V710 for HPDE and 225/45/17, 245/40/17 General Exclaim UHP for steet.
or
Buy 225/45/17, 255/40/17 Toyo R888 for HPDE/Street and buy 205/55/16 General Exclaim UHP for long distance driving
OFF TOPIC: I guess the SCCA no metal bushing rule prevents the use of AWR Needle Bearings in the front control arms and Spherical Bearings in the rear control arms, eh?
Last edited by Roen; 02-29-08 at 12:16 PM.
#2999
As far as juggling wheels/rims on the same car to run in different classes goes, it is simply not that easy.
You have to match your suspension to the level of grip.
For instance, by the time you get the front end off the bumpstops during braking w/ 275/35 Hoosiers up front the spring rate will be so high (guessing 9-11Kg/cm range) that it would be WAY to drifty on 225 140 treadwear tires...
First time on the hill I had 225/50 RA-1 and it was fine, next time I had (shorter BTW) 245/45 RA1 and they rub accross the top of the tread on the fender liner under braking when I cross the road crown.
~5" suspension stroke on 7kg/cm springs under braking...
PS, watch out for light weight 15x10 that are built ONLY for the drag race guys and connot handle lateral loading. For instance, Weld specifically states not for track or Auto-x use, but other companies do not have this disclaimer and should.
You have to match your suspension to the level of grip.
For instance, by the time you get the front end off the bumpstops during braking w/ 275/35 Hoosiers up front the spring rate will be so high (guessing 9-11Kg/cm range) that it would be WAY to drifty on 225 140 treadwear tires...
First time on the hill I had 225/50 RA-1 and it was fine, next time I had (shorter BTW) 245/45 RA1 and they rub accross the top of the tread on the fender liner under braking when I cross the road crown.
~5" suspension stroke on 7kg/cm springs under braking...
PS, watch out for light weight 15x10 that are built ONLY for the drag race guys and connot handle lateral loading. For instance, Weld specifically states not for track or Auto-x use, but other companies do not have this disclaimer and should.
#3000
Thanks for those tips.
I'm planning on keying the suspension configuration to the most important competition and adjusting configurations for the others with different hardware.
For now, grip is still the most important factor, and I need to have the tires that give me that grip.
I'm planning on keying the suspension configuration to the most important competition and adjusting configurations for the others with different hardware.
For now, grip is still the most important factor, and I need to have the tires that give me that grip.