Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

yep. but if you wanna be sure, just check the clearance yourself between the tire and shock. if your whole finger slides between them without resistance, you can go up at least one size. unless you are a 5'1" pettite girl. in which case you may have very small fingers.

bergrx7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. Josh, you are the same one on v8rx7? I've had my vert for 15 yrs...I've never enjoyed it this much!

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

indeed i am. (i think my sig is the same.. but now i will check)

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Just so you know, this guy is selling some 16 ms01 for $650. Not sure if you wanted the 16 or 17 but yeah. He says they are +50 offset. O.o

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=730478

limbar85

iTrader: (21)

I've got zeal coilovers, all fenders at 24.5" , and i'm looking to get volk ce28n's. There are some on an auction right now for 17x8.5 +30 all around. I would want to definately run 255/40's in the back and 225-235/45 up front (eventually 255 if i get wider fenders). I dont really like flush wheels and would prefer them to stick inside the wells. I was just wondering if you guys think this would work, offsets too high/low, need spacers...w/e. Auction ends in 2 days so prompt answers would be appreciated! Thanks

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

that will fit fine!!
and yes start with 225/45 in frint and go from there. front fitment is tricky stuff, so play it safe and see for yourself how much wider you can go.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Like Josh said, 17x8.5 +30 will work well, though you may also be limited to 245 in the rear to avoid rubbing the sidewall on the fender lip with full suspension travel.

Or run more than 1.5 deg negative camber back there. Or roll that lip under at the top.

I have 16x8 +30 w/ a moderately high section width for its size (RA1) 245 and had to increase neg camber a tiny bit to keep it from rubbing the sidewall on the 90 deg lip.

limbar85

iTrader: (21)

does anyone have any experience/pics of a 17x8.5 +30 to +40 with a 255/40 setup in the back? I have 16x8.5 +45 with 245/45 right now with a perfect fit. Im slightly worried that the wheels will be too close to the lip with the +30 offset; i hate the look of that + i dont want to roll the lip.

re-rx7

iTrader: (3)

Wanting to do 16x8 in the rear w/ 0 offset. Fronts lookin like 16x7 +35 offset.

90FC

Are you taking about an fd? Because there is no way a 16x8.5 +45 wheel fits in front on an fc.

J.MurdaFCs3

what about 16x7.5 wit 225 50r16. its stock currently. will that fit ok??

Black91n/a

Depending on the offset yes.

Wezzmo

anyone know about widebody fitment?

wondering if i can cram 18x12 -16 under +50mm wider rear guards... with 245 tyres.... (yes, i realise this is stupidly stretched)

anyone?

unicorn_squad

you'd have to stretch out the 50mm fenders a bit.

18x12 -7 is even gonna take some work to fit on my buddies car, with probably a 255 on it, the edge of the wheel sticks probably about a half inch out of his 50mm fenders, so a narrow tire might 'barely' tuck under. a -16 is going to take even more work.

Wezzmo

^Cheers, exactly what i needed,

think I might pass on them, just too big

MWMburton

did someone already post for skyline wheels? the 5 spoke 16x8's. . . and as far as offset goes what exactly is it and what does it do. ive gotten many answeres from friends and none of them explain it correctly and none of them fully understand it, obviously you wheel profesionals definatly do. for instance what is the difference between a wheel in a 16x8 w/ a 35mm offset to a 16x8 w/ a 0 offset or a -10 offset. what will the offsets do and on an fc which one would u need spacers on and which ones would you need extened wheel studs or some kind of hubcentric ring or wutever

please no flaming just askin a question tryin to verify for all those other ppl who have no idea what there shopping for as far as wheels n tires go

luckyfd

iTrader: (3)

who's the dude with the cas rims 18 9.5 all around with stock fenders and stretched tires i need more details i plan on getting rota p45r's 18 by 9.5 without wide fenders... heres the rims im talking about incase your wondering

RETed

The R32 GT-R wheels are 16" x 8.0", +30.
Run a 225 / 50 / 16, and it's perfect (up front).
Don't expect "flush fitment" in the rears though, but it does fit in the rears with no drama.


This is really a FAQ...
There's a lot of info out there, and I would suggest looking for it.
Pictures help out a LOT here.

Offset - the distance of the mounting plane versus the theoretical centerline of the wheel width, in millimeters

Thus, a 16" x 8.0" with "0 offset" would have the mounting flange positioned exactly in the center of the wheel - 4" from the front; 4" from the rear; 8.0" total rim width

A 16" x 8.0", with +35 offset would push the mounting flange position further OUTWARD by 35mm versus direct center, so the wheel would sit 35mm further INWARD versus a wheel with 16" x 8.0", +0 specs.

A 16" x 8.0", with -10 offset would push the mounting flange position further INWARD by 10mm versus direct center, so the wheel would sit 10mm further OUTWARD versus a wheel with 16" x 8.0", +0 specs.
Negative numbers are also called "negative offsets" or "reverse offsets".
These wheels tend to stick out of the fenders a lot and popular with wire wheels and lowriders.



-Ted

ThatsanFC

ok i am interested in getting new wheels for my 1988 convertible. i got the stock 17 white meat slicers and was looking for at least a two piece forged aluminum 5-6 spoke wheel and finally found what i was looking for. Gram Lights has a model that will fit that, the 57F pro, smallest diameter is 18in but the problem is that they have all sorts of sizes for width and offset.
width size : 7.5, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0
offset : -2, -4, -14, +3, +8, +9, +12, +15, +18, +21, +22, +24, +27, +28, +30, +34, +37, +40, +43, +47(all of the offsets go with any of the width sizes)
also i don't have rubber in mind yet but was just wondering what combination of width+offset(and rubber if you feel like it) would any1 else think about doing. anything would help. also heres a link of the site

http://group5.rpmware.com/gram-light...o/g-52775.aspx

Black91n/a

2 questions:

Why do you insist on multi-piece wheels? They're usually heavier and more expensive than single piece wheels.

Why do you insist on forged wheels? They're more expensive and not necessarily any stronger or lighter than cast wheels.

Take the Enkei RP-F1 for instance, you can get a set of decently wide 17's for under $1k that are less than 16lbs and very strong. They hit all the right performance points, they even look pretty good (IMHO), but are a single piece cast wheel. So why make those restrictive criteria in your search? There's lots of other strong, good looking, quality single piece, cast wheels that'll work very well.

ThatsanFC

well forged are more likely to bend and not break and multi piece is for replacement of either outer or inner piece instead of whole wheel also as for "not stronger" usually 300% stronger than cast aluminum and the weight is usually 20% decrease from cast because less material is used, u should look some of that up and get back to me with the results, im just stating what ive read on many sites. im not too worried on the price, when it comes to my FC i want the best so ill save up.

Black91n/a

I've researched wheels extensively. I think the stronger comments come mainly because the forged wheels are high quality, expensive pieces and they get compared to the cheap cast wheels that can be quite weak. Yesforging is better, but it's not a given that the wheel will be any stronger, there's lots more factors in play. When comparing them to a quality cast whell like the Enkei's, 5Zigen's or many others then it's not an issue. Those RP-F1's for instance have a reputation for being incredibly strong. Bend your suspension before they bend strong.

They RP-F1's are incredibly light at 15.5lbs for a 17x8 or 17x8.5. I've not found any other wheels that can match that that'll fit an FC. None of the Volk, Gram Lights, etc wheels are even close to that weight and they're all MUCH more expensive. They're usually closer to the weight of the 5Zigen FN01R-C's (another strong, light, cheap, quality cast wheel) or heavier.

Honestly, how often do you predict you're going to have to repair your wheels? Especially if you get away from the really big diameters and down to something with a bigger sidewall (like a 17 or less) there's more give in the sidewall so you're less likely to bend or break them on a pot hole. If you're worried about curbing them or crashing them, then you need to learn to drive more carefully. If you get something less expensive like the Enkei's it's probably cheaper to buy a new wheel than to buy the parts and have the wheel fixed for the Gram Lights. I've been researching sports racers for a friend, and apparently many of them are moving away from multi-piece wheels to single piece, because they're lighter.

Now if that's what you really want then great, go for it, but it's not a given that they're any better than a cast, single piece wheel. Just trying to help you out by telling you that you don't need to spend your hard earned cash needlessly.

ThatsanFC

well i appreciate the suggestion and help your giving me but i still want to go with the ones i had in mind, more of a personal choice. so if you have any suggestions on my original question that would be nice.

Black91n/a

18x8's, 30mm offset, 225/40/18's. What kind of rubber are you looking for? Max performance, wear be damned, or something with more of a compromise for wear?

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

oops