owen is fat

you can run a shorter spring, so the perch is higher but then you run into other issues with springs that short. on a racecar it may be an option but for a streetcar it would be stupid to make such a sacrifice to fit another 15mm of wheel or tire.

also, camber bolts allowing more positive camber to move the wheel AWAY from the strut and spring perch can be used with camber plates on coilover systems (set to negatvie to compensate for the bolts giving positive) so you can gain space for wider wheels and tires.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Why wont a 18x8.5 +35 fit up front, when an 18x8 +35 will, if the tire itself is still wider than the wheel anyway?

RETed

Yep.
Ground Control typically ships a 7" long spring for fronts, and this works really well for most applications.
You can ask for a 6" spring, but you gotta worry about:
1) spring binding due to the shorter spring, and
2) bottoming out the shock, if you jack the ride height too low.

Even with the 1" height difference, you get the lower spring perch to barely clear the tire, when talking about stock tire diameters.


-Ted

owen is fat

because those have the same offset, the 8.5 wheel is wider by 1/4" on each side of the wheel.

when I ran a 17x8 +35 in front with tein flex, it almost touched the coilover. I dont think there was enough room even for an additional 1/4" but it also depends on the wheel design, some have more lip material, some dont have much.

Black91n/a

That's assuming that your camber plates can get you enough extra negative camber to get you to where you want to be. I know on my Tein Flex's at the ride height I'm running they max out some where around 2 degrees negative.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Some coilovers do allow for more room up front than stock or stock style spring.

I have JIC FLT-A2 and can run a 245-45-16 on a 16x8 +30 with no problems and I have read on this very thread that with stock spring you will hit the tire on the spring with this size.

Going to a 17" or 18" rim actually provides MORE room as the strut is angled away from the hub so the further from center the more room inboard.

I have some 17x8.5 +30 front and 17x9.5+40 Volks on the way for race rubber and will report back how that fits.

I may have to run a 3-5mm spacer out back to get 275 on there, but I expect 245 to 255 to fit up front no problem.

-----------

Yes, I haven't even started to get into this trick yet to fit 245 up front on stock rolled fenders, but may have to for the 255.

I still have some negative camber left on the strut tops to employ this technique if I have to. I will weld a big washer to the eccentric bolt end and through drill/bolt the strut housing so that it cannot turn out of position.

This trick also helps put the steering access back closer to the center fo the contact patch if you have gone to less than stock offset.

Black91n/a

Well if the wheel and tire combo on the 17" or 18" wheels have the same width and diameter there really shouldn't be very much difference at all, just sidewall shape.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hello all once more. I am about to buy some tires for my new wheels, and I just want to throw this past you all before I click buy.

I just got some Mazdaspeed MS-01 17 inch wheels. I have been told the stats are :
Front:
17 x 8 +35mm
Rear:
17 x 9 +34mm

I am thinking about getting some Falken Azenis RT-615:
Front:
235/40R-17 90W BLK
Rear:
255/40R-17 94W BLK

I am concerned that the fronts might be too wide. I would get the 225/45R-17s but they are 45, and I'm not sure if it's a good idea to mis-match that.

I am going to be running (have already bought) some tokico illuminas with ground control coilovers. I'm not sure how much extra room that is going to give me, but maybe it will allow me to run the 235s up front.

If someone could confirm either way that would help me out a lot.

Thanks
~Tweak

here are some pictures of the wheels.





my current tires+wheels width compared to these new wheels.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

So 5MM spacers then? or 8?

Black91n/a

A 225/45/17 is much closer to the diameter of a 255/40/17 anyway, so there's not a mismatch in that sense (since you mentionned profile I assume that's what you meant). 45% of 225 is 101, 40% of 255 is 102, so they should be nearly perfectly matched for sidewall height and diameter. I don't think 235/40/17's will fit with that offset, a 225/45/17 is damned close on wheels with those specs. A 5mm spacer would be advisable if you want 235's in front (which would be advisable to keep understeer down).

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Doh! Sorry about the sig, I tried to edit that out right when I posted but the forum went wonky on me.

Black91n/a
A 17" wheel puts the wheel rim and tire 1/2" further away from wheel center than a 16". That is 1/2" higher position relative to the strut. The strut is angled away from the wheel center. Therefore, there is more room for the edge of the rim and tire to go inboard the larger the diameter wheel/tire when using coilovers.



TweakGames
As Ted noted above the Ground Control coillovers limit tire width more than stock as they use a stock style strut cartrige and then add a larger spring perch/adjuster that ends up right where the rim/tire wants to be on most sizes we would run (16", 17").

Spacers or real coilovers for those to fit w/ 235/45 or 245/40-17 up front


ReTed

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Where the hell did you get MS-01's? Let me know, I've been looking for a set for awhile. I had to settle for RS Watanabe's in 17x8 +30 and 17x9 +30 instead.

BTW, Aspect ratio, the middle number, is a percentage as opposed to a fixed number. that being said, 235/40 will be the shortest tire, then 225/45, then 255/40.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Reon, there were posted in the 3rd and 2nd gen for sale section. The seller was kinda weird, and it was a crap shoot to see who got the wheels. (everyone wanted them, and he wasn't really responding to our messages), but I was the lucky one, and got my paypal money to him first after he mass sent us all his paypal addy. After looking on the forums and interweb a lot more, I realized (after I bought them) that these babies were hard to get. O.o to say the least. They did make a ms-01s set (that is smaller and isn't made out of magnesium) but they look kinda the same.

Yeah I will have to look up what the 40 and 45 numbers mean, I seem to be confused. I THOUGHT for some weird reason that it was how high your side wall was in mm or something. Come to think of that that would only be 1.7 inches haha. Now I feel stupid.

Anyways, if in a year or so, I get tired of these wheels and are looking to sell um, I will definitely PM you if you would like.

Here are the links to you threads they were for sale in.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=ms01
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=ms01

(update)

The "65"is known as the Aspect Ratio. It is calculated by dividing the section height by the section width and multiplying by 100. (In this example, the sidewall will be 65% of 215)

That is pretty simple and makes a lot more since now. Thanks guys! I will go with the 225/45 for the front! I think I will be happy with those tires!

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I saw that, I remember why I didn't want them, I wanted the flat silver, not the gold and silver combo. Still damn good looking wheels though.

I'm debating going to Japan and locating a used set for myself.

RETed

I don't think they are that hard to get...
I used to see them regularly from Takumi Project or RB Motoring...

...although I don't see them from either vendor right now.
Weird...cause there's a set of MS-02's for sale.


-Ted

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I ordered my RS Watanabe F8F's new from Takumi Project, and when I went to put an order in for MS-01's, they told me they couldn't because now they're discontinued. That's why I'm on the hunt for MS-01's used now.

I don't think those in TweakGames' photos are MS-01 Mag's, are they? If they are, $1200 is a ******* steal and a half.

RETed

Nope, cause I think the magnesium wheels are all one-piece...


-Ted

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

It says ms01 in the corner of this picture, (on the label of the wheel)



they are magnesium (they are gold on the inside, just my lighting didn't bring out the contrast) , they are not ms01s (the smaller non-magnesium 1 piece if I remember correctly)

and they were $1,100

Roen

iTrader: (2)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/new-mazdaspeed-ms01s-those-%242500-burning-their-pocket-534648/

Nah, didn't think so, MS-01 MAG are what you paid for the set, PER WHEEL!!!!!

RETed

Uh, no.
I've never seen a multi-piece magnesium MS-01 before.
The only magnesium MS-01's I've seen are all 1-piece.
Got proof of such a beast was made?

Just because they are gold doesn't mean they are magnesium.
Easy way to tell...get them on a scale.
If they weigh UNDER 10lbs. each, then they are magnesium.
I doubt they weigh under 10 lbs. each.


-Ted

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

awwwwww ohhhh ok nope they are not magnesium wheels haha, they are 21 and 22 lbs each. Sad face. Still, I think I got a pretty good deal. Aww I see the difference now. I have classic ms01, not ms01 mag.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

TweakGames
Hey, those are some great looking classic wheels that look to be in very nice shape! Don't get too sad.

Me
Got the used Volk TE-37 I plan to use for race rubber today. They have 235/45-17 Trampio Vimode (JDM Toyo) for the front and 255/40-17 Yokohama GP M5 for the rear.

Rear has 14mm between tire and trailing arm, so 275/40-17 will fit without a spacer depending on which model (no way w/ Kuhmo V710 for instance) and will not require any fender lip modification.

Front fits, but is VERY tight because the damn Tramps have a 7mm tall rim protector flange exactly where the spring perch is the way I have the struts adjusted. So, 245/40-17 will fit depending on model with stock front fenders w/ lip rolled under and ~3 deg negative camber.

I am leaning towards the Foresight front fenders and the eccentric bolt in the top strut housing mount to clear 255 up front to keep the stagger within reason and still have some traction out back with the 275.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok, I canceled my order for the falkens real quick.

You said you think you can run 275 in the rear, and you have a wider 9.5 inch wheel back there?

I have 9 inch wide wheels +35 in the rear, do you think I will be able to get away with 275 falken 615s in the rear? I realised that yours are 9.5 and +40, not +35 and according to the offset calculator on 101tires, I should have 11 mm MORE inner clearence, and RETRACTED 1 mm outer position. I did the math and it's only and upgrade from 10inches wide tire to 10.8, but every bit helps!

(thanks blue for the wheel comment!)

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

You will need to roll the rear fender lip under and run ~1-1.5 deg negative camber OR run more than 2 deg negative camber to get full rear suspension travel w/ a 275 w/ +35. Inboard it is a good fit.

The offset affects how the fender and trailing arm will interfere with the tire sidewall much more than the rim width.

Lucky for you the RT-615 are skinny section width in this size.

You will not like the understeer w/ 235 or 235 up front and 275 in the rear ( I have had that much stagger on an FC before)and the worse acceleration from heavy 275. Unless you plan on making 350+ RWHP I would stick w/ 255 rear and even if planning for that power consider a stickier tire with a more balanced stagger.

If you are planning on addressing the front tire width limitations ignore the above :P

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Well, I am on the fast track to a BNR stage 4, so yeah hopefully 350 rwhp, but if staggering is really going to be an issue (from what I have read here on the forum from you and black91n/a it is) I will just stick with 225 front, and 255 rear. I am really thinking about 235 up front, and getting a 5 mm spacer. You guys have really scared me saying how running such staggered is and issue. I would rather be in better control than just have better rear traction. Also I am running GC coilovers, and that isn't good from what I have been told. (for room for bigger tires)

I don't know if the only issues with running wider tires is just hitting the shocks and fenders, or is there also the possibility to hit the fender well when turning sharp? I have 2 steering angle mods I am experimenting with, one being the spindle mod, and the other being the rods. Is there plenty of room for steering angel, or should I be careful of that also?

I will have hold off and do a little more research. I am pretty set on 255s in the rear, but now I am continplating 235 or even 245 up front.

Would 245s on 8 inch wide wheels, with +34 offset, 8mm spacer, and slight fender roll get the job done or is that out of the question you think?

Thanks
~Tweak