BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Sorry, I haven't raced/driven with R888 on my FD- just friends cars.

But what I feel based on my experience with NT01 and RA1 (same compound as R888 I believe) is that the R888 will have less ultimate grip and take a bit longer to warm up than the Z221 C70 compound, but last longer and have more consistent grip/warm up time over its life (ie not hear cycle out so badly).

I think the Z221 C50 and R888 would be a closer comparison and based on what I know I would take the R888 for its known consistency, lower price ($240) and the fact that I am not thrilled over Z221 lazy sidewall/carcass feel.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Got my shortened Tripoint swaybar torsion tube today.

4 work days delivered for a custom spec part made to order from a subcontractor.

Mark at Tripoint is the man! He obviously has a great team working with him at Tripoint and chose his subcontractors well too.

jayr_

iTrader: (2)

thread very usefull thanks everyone!

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Slightly over -2 in my case.

With offset bushings it is now -3.3

And contrary to what some may say, more camber can be quite good on an FD, especially for autox.

The extra camber does sacrifice some braking and acceleration for cornering speed, which is just fine for autox, and possibly tracks with short straights.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Looks pretty good.

In that first pic it appears that the steering wheel flips up.

Is that the case?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Yes, that is a Works Bell Rapfix GTC Hybrid steering wheel boss.

It makes it easier to get into race seats in the FD with short fat legs.

primerGrey

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the pointer - I also thought this was a great idea for a tool so ordered it.

Turns out it is made of plastic pieces that flex enough (or are mold-warped enough) that I wouldn't trust it's accuracy to more than +/- 5mm clearance. It's too bad, since a well-made metal piece would have some utility.

And you need to know the profile of the tire you want to run sufficiently well to be able to bend a piece of wire to match its shape. Using a wire isn't a bad solution, but be aware that simulating tire profile is just hard to do without the tire.

And it won't help much with trailing rod interference, since that depends on the mfg-specific internal dimensions of the wheel.

All in all, since most of these questions come down to millimeters, far more accurate information is available on this forum, from the experience of others.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Too bad that tool turned out to be less than useful.

Sounds like it would have been more useful if stouter material were used to build it.

Thanks for the report.

1ga

iTrader: (9)

Hello)
I've recently bought a set of Volk GT-C face2 18" from JDM RX 7.
Tire width is 9",front offset +11, rear +6.
Front tyres 245/40, rear 275/35.

Now it's winter in our region, so I haven't installed them yet.

Will they fit to stock archs? Or I need to roll it?
Thanks

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

You wont fit that properly without over fenders.

1ga

iTrader: (9)

Only rear?
Where can I buy over fenders?

Limblessknight

iTrader: (1)

so just to be sure
front: 18x9.5 with 255/30/18 +45
rear: 18x10 with 285/30/18 +38
these will clear without rub or fender roll/pull?

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

The fronts should fit with a roll.
The rears will cut it fairly close but should fit, might require a little pull.

I don't think your front will fit either to be honest. Not even with rubber band tires.
Those specs are waaaay to aggressive for stock body.
Shine Auto sells good ones in various styles. Check the 3rd gen classifieds I seen a set for sale there too.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I would run a 18x10 front and rear with 255/35/18 tires. OR front 18x10 255/35/18, rear 18x10.5 +38 to +30 with a 285/30/18.

You will need to roll the fender lips, and possibly a slight pull depending on the car and offset you choose.

Aggressive: if you want, you can run -2 degrees camber and run 18x10 front and rear with 285/30/18 tires and an aggressive roll of the fenders. if you use +38 offset. I am getting mine to work with a 18x10.5 +30mm offset and 285/30/18 tires with not too much of an aggressive drop. fender height is 25" front and 25.5" rear. +38mm would be the better offset to do it with. I am currently running 18x10 +38mm front and rear with 265/35/18 tires and -2 degrees camber front and -1.3 rear. The camber is what is good for handling and also fitting tires. you could do a 285/30/18 18x10.5 +38MM enkei PF01.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

so just to be sure
front: 18x9.5 with 255/30/18 +45
rear: 18x10 with 285/30/18 +38
these will clear without rub or fender roll/pull?

Front will fit fine, but will require at least 1.4 degrees negative camber up front if the stock fender front lip is not rolled under (with a little variance depending on tire manufacturer.)
I ran 17x8.5 +30 with 255 from my TII on the front of my FD with around 2 deg negative camber and it *barely* caught the unrolled fender edge when a really good driver auto-x'ed it. I wasn't able to load it enough to get it to rub.

It is only tire width and offset that matter. Rim width only comes into play when you gonzo on it and start running into the suspension on the inboard side.

Rear will fit fine with a 265/35-18 and anything over about 1.3 deg negative camber on unrolled fenders. The 265 is a better fit for a 10" wide wheel anyways, especially if you are "stretching" a 255 on a 9.5 up front.
I ran 18x10.5 +38 and 265/35-18 on unrolled rear with 1.2 deg neg camber and it barely barely rubbed just the letters on the sidewall.

But really do yourself a favor and run a square (10" wide) set up front and rear so you can rotate the tires and not have so much understeer. Keep the offset as close to +45 as you can in order to fit the max tire width.

Those specs are waaaay to aggressive for stock body.

Well, this thread is for max width and those are actually quite conservative, but I do understand he said stipulated unrolled fenders and one can assume he doesn't want much camber either.

Basically, wrong thread for this poster.

JerryD680

I'm looking at getting a set of Advan TCIII.
ADVAN Wheels - ADVAN Racing TCIII

I can get a deal on 18x9.5 +45 for the rears, but only two. I was planning on running those in the rear as I think they will be too much for the fronts. What size should I get for the fronts? I was thinking of doing a 18x9.0 +40. What do you think?

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

Those sizes and offsets will definitely work.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

If it were me, hell I would run a rolled fender lips with 18x10 +35mm front and rear 255/35/18 tires.

If wanted to go widebody I would use 18x11 +30mm with 295/30/18 tires.

JerryD680

I don't plan on going widebody, but I will roll the fenders. I can get two of the 18x10 +35, but I don't think the 18x9.5 +45 will fit on the fronts.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I can get two of the 18x10 +35, but I don't think the 18x9.5 +45 will fit on the fronts.

Why not?

As far as I am concerned, +45 is the perfect offset front and rear to center the tire between the stock (rolled) fender arch and the suspension.

I run 18x11 +45 w/ 295 front and rear with rolled fenders and -2.4 front camber and coilovers.

If you went down to -1.4 camber in front you could still run a 265 with that +45 offset and rolled fenders.

If you went down to -.4 camber up front you could still run a 255 or 245 with that +45 offset, which would be best on a 9.5" wide wheel anyways.

Don't stagger front to rear by half an inch. If you are going to stagger you might as well do it a meaningful amount- not just enough to nix rotating tires without any noticeable performance or visual difference.

I know, I did this on my first wheels on my RX-7 TII.

None of this should be in this thread though.

Think of the people who do search, now they have to wade through all this conservative fitment talk to find some specs for "maximum wheel and tire width fitment guide for the FD" which is the title of the thread.

JerryD680

Thanks for the feedback and knowledge. I have the 18x9.5 on the way. Luckily I'll be able to see what they look like and go from there on the other two. I think you're right about not staggering.

I could have posted in a better thread. I was searching through the forum, and had 10 tabs open on my screen.

Rotorfevr86

I just read all of this, started off lost and finished more lost than I started. Help for a newb rotard?

I want to order these but unsure if they will fit:

Wedssport SA-60M, with 18 x 10 x +36 offset for rear and 18 x 9 x +35 offset for the front.

I don't mind rolling the fenders...

Oun

iTrader: (3)

yes they will fit.

F: 225/40-18
R: 255/35-18

Or

F: 235/40-18
R: 275/35-18

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I would go with a 18x10 +36mm front and rear with 255/35/18 tires front and rear. roll front and rear fenders.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

I'm having a tough time spec'ing new front tires.

My wheels are
Front: 18-8.5 offset 35 - 255/35/18 or 245/35/18
Rear: 18-9.5 offset 38 - 265/35/18

Fenders are NOT rolled

Currently I'm running 225/40 front and 265/35 rear and everything is fine but I was hoping to get wider fronts. I was told 255 would work but I looked into it again and it looks like there will be some rubbing but I'm not 100% on this.

Based on the wheel sizing excel sheet
Front wheel offset (35mm)
Tire clearance, outside (0.12in.)
Tire clearance, inside (1.38in.)

It's making me start to think that 245 would even rub due to the low outside tire clearance. What do you guys think?