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Those TE's are only $523 usd each right now due to what's happening in Jp. All in delivered with duty paid should be under $2500 usd. Food for thought.
A little homework can go long way for certain parts right now. Literally the best time ever to buy many types of jdm parts imo. USDM distributors are still selling regular 18x10.5 RPF1 for $470+ usd each + sales tax, etc (so easily over $2k for non-forged).
If you're not crazy about TE's, maybe it would be worth checking out the Advan R6 in 18x11 or 18x12 if you need. Similar yes but quite rare / unique by comparison. I just checked Nengun and you can order them for $581 usd each and they weight under 19lbs. Which is crazy when compared to the weights of the other wheels mentioned. I'd estimate around 40% cheaper today than when I ordered in 2020.
Those TE's are only $523 usd each right now due to what's happening in Jp. All in delivered with duty paid should be under $2500 usd. Food for thought.
Should be with the Yen to USD right now, but thats not how US vendors are working it.
The 18x11 +45 TE37 are $900-1,000 each from US vendors.
Its like this for everything from Japan at the moment. You gotta find an English and export friendly Japan based vendor (or broker) to save $.
If you know someone with a container and can wait you can save huge on shipping.
Advan doesnt have the +45 offset, but they do have 18x11 +30 offset (like Feed uses on FD) that works with Feed +25mm widebody or 5 degrees front camber and same fender work as the +45 offset.
Ok, I am back at this again after reading through all 28 pages.
I am considering 18x10 +50 wheels. It has been referenced as the gold standard for stock fenders yet the sites that sell them recommend rolling the fenders (Sakebomb/Titan, Mazda Motorsports).
I am on Ohlins Sakebomb GT lite coilovers. Soooo....can I run this setup on stock fenders/liners and if so what tire sizes can I run (front and rear) ?
Keeping the fenders stock is of utmost importance as the car only has 18k original miles. It will not be tracked and is an occasional weekend car more than anything.
@BLUE TII mentioned 255/35's but I am not a huge fan of the stretched look, can I go and wider without rubbing ? Would it be silly to run 255's up front and 275's rear ?
Roll the front fenders, it won't hurt the value of the car. The front fenders are the most critical, prone to catch the lip because of the turning wheels. .
You can run 18x10 +50 on unrolled front fenders and maxed camber with 265/35-18 if the tire model is short enough or 285/30-18 if the tire model is narrow enough.
Those are some big ifs.
Because if the tire does snag the front fender lip turning it will wrinkle the fender.
I agree its better to roll the front fender lip under as cheap insurance.
If you really want to keep your FD original you could buy a couple front fenders, roll them and paint match them while keeping the originals on the garage wall.
I am considering 18x10 +50 wheels. It has been referenced as the gold standard for stock fenders yet the sites that sell them recommend rolling the fenders (Sakebomb/Titan, Mazda Motorsports).
Since your vehicle is in collector condition and you would prefer not to modify (or potentially damage), why not consider the genuine RZ's in the FS section? https://www.rx7club.com/market/1166216
Great price and one of the best oem wheels for oem car imo. ZE's are cool though. GL!
@Federighi - I actually considered those for awhile, a part of me still is. I don't love the look of 17's but the OEM+ look is nice and would suit my car well.
@BLUE TII - thanks again for your input, I'll look around but tough to find 9.5" or 9" in +50 without going custom.
I'm kind of all over the map here, but will 18x9.5 +38 265/35 fit in the rear without a roll ?
Current thoughts....
1) Play it safe with Sakebomb RZ+'s
2) CE28N Plus (8.5x18 +38 235/40, 9.5x18 +38 265/35)
3) HRE custom "safe" offsets noted by Blue TII (9x18 +50 255/35)
I'm kind of all over the map here, but will 18x9.5 +38 265/35 fit in the rear without a roll ?
When I ran 265/35-18 on +38 offset the sidewall barely had the letters rubbed off from the rear fender arch unrolled lip with -1.2 degrees negative camber (minimum possible).
So, +38 offset 265/35-18 rear depends on tire brand and how much camber. Its close.
When I ran 265/35-18 on +38 offset the sidewall barely had the letters rubbed off from the rear fender arch unrolled lip with -1.2 degrees negative camber (minimum possible).
So, +38 offset 265/35-18 rear depends on tire brand and how much camber. Its close.
Oooofff, so much to digest here. I always run Michelin PS4S when possible, which I believe run a bit wide compared to their counterparts.
18x10 +50 285/30-18 will catch the stock fender lip with full steering lock and the suspension compressed to the bumpstop.
I found this when I ran 17x8.5 +30 255/40-17 which is exact same fitment on the outside.
Situation 1-
very slow U-turn at the storage sheds I kept FD in. The suspension compression happened because the blacktop is sloped down and up beteeen the sheds for drainage.
Situation 2-
A friend autocrossed FD that could brake and turn to lock (I was just sliding the rear in these spots to make the tight turns).
At this point I know I am over thinking this. I'm leaning towards the Sakebomb RZ+ wheels in 18 x 9.5 + 45 (Labor Day sale this weekend too).
But....a part of me still wants to buy once/cry once and get HRE C100's.
I'm pretty set on the rears 18 x 9.5 + 45 (255/35).
If I want to go 18 x 8.5 in the front, what would an ideal offset and tire size be where I wouldn't have to worry about max negative camber, rolling fenders, or scrubbing a fender liner ?
I was thinking somewhere in the +42 to +45 range on a 235/40 ? +48 to +50 seems too sunken in IMO.
At this point I know I am over thinking this. I'm leaning towards the Sakebomb RZ+ wheels in 18 x 9.5 + 45 (Labor Day sale this weekend too).
But....a part of me still wants to buy once/cry once and get HRE C100's.
I'm pretty set on the rears 18 x 9.5 + 45 (255/35).
If I want to go 18 x 8.5 in the front, what would an ideal offset and tire size be where I wouldn't have to worry about max negative camber, rolling fenders, or scrubbing a fender liner ?
I was thinking somewhere in the +42 to +45 range on a 235/40 ? +48 to +50 seems too sunken in IMO.
I'm largely in the same boat. I like the Mazda Motorsports wheels because a) they were made for the car, b) they are Rays and all that means, and c) I want to support the Motorsports program. I like the Sakebomb 18" RZ+ because I prefer the mesh design.
Is the price shown on HRE's website the price you pay? Fikse and Forgeline used to offer better pricing through dealers so I wonder if HRE does something similar.
07-16-24, 05:23 PM
