Let me know once you install. I want a ride.

 

I run Ohlins DFV's and kept the stock 94 rear bar as its the thinnest diameter compared with 93 and 95. Oversteer on track has not been an issue while also running a square tire setup.

 

Brekyrself: That's good to hear on your set-up. I have a 93 with a bit stiffer rear bar, and a mid size Tri-Point front bar which is adjustable.

What wheel / tire setup do you have, and what do you think of it?

 

18x9.5 +45 with 285/30/18 Yoko A048's. I really only drive it on the street to get gas however with the Ohlins it is simply amazing on track. I am still running the stock front bar.

I was afraid at first about the use of bearings instead of a rubber top hat however can assure you it makes no difference with these shocks. They soak up every bump, imperfection, etc... with ease never un settling the car.

Just FYI if you follow the instructions from Ohlins it will set the car at roughly 25.25" ride height.

 

Brekyrself: Thanks for the info! Did the ride height come out level (same to the fenders) front and back?

I have the coilovers now, instructions are quite good. I should get some time this weekend for an install.

My ride heights now are a bit under 25" in front, about 25 1/2 in the back, so the recommended setup should be quite close, and sounds like a great place to start.

 

I put on the Ohlins at the recommended height and then adjusted my corner weights on the scales. I found not much height change is needed to jack weight around with this high spring rate. I only adjusted one coilover a couple mm to get the crossweights even.

I just measured and my FDs heights are at-
25.5" Dr front
25.75" Dr rear
26" Pass front
26" Pass rear

Raising the rear ride height above the front will help give you corner entry rotation (oversteer) just in case you didn't already have that figured out.

 

I got the coilovers on last weekend, and have had a couple short drives in the now. WOW!

The install: This went well, once I figured out which top hats went where, the ones labeled left and right go in the rear! I set up preload per instructions, and checked overall height per instructions. Came out within 1 mm of their specs, said good enough for an install. Turned out to be great! My ride heights were almost identical to what I had before. Drivers side at 25" front and rear, passenger side at 24 3/4" front, 25 1/4" rear. Then checked it on the scales. Cross weight at 49.9% empty, 51.1% with a driver, and 3/4 tank gas, with swaybars disconnected. I happily called it a great day! Very high quality parts.

Driving: VERY nice! Certainly stiffer / firmer than before (yup - this is what I wanted, right?!), but somehow not as harsh. Seems like a great combo of shocks and springs. Overall I like the ride a little better, and certainly achieved my goal of not killing the street ride. It even seems quieter than with konis, certainly no issues from the pillow block mounting. I haven't pushed it to limits yet to figure out balance, will wait for an autocross to do that. Should do an alignment too.

Overall: Awesome!

 

Ohlins or spend an extra 1,000 Moore for the jrz rs pro?

 

Great to hear, these sound like a great set-up. Would be good to get another update after you've had some more seat time.

 

It's time for an update now that I have some street time in the car and an autocross.

Street: I really like these on the street. They do seem stiffer than what I had, but more compliant and less harsh, which makes for an overall better ride. These are great on the freeway for longer day trips, but those tend to be smooth roads. Overall more enjoyable to drive.

My son (mid 20's) takes the car out once in a while, and took it out for a day trip over some of our twisty, but somewhat rough, back roads. He really liked it, and summed it up well: "It is now more confidence inspiring and easier to drive, with a nicer ride."

Autocross: These were easy to drive on the autocross. I may have been a little faster than before, comparing times to people I run against, but I need a little more seat time to fully extract what these add. Brake dive and acceleration squat are effectively gone. It does tend to oversteer at the limit, but seems easier to control at the limit than before. I think I will play with sway bars for the next event, by either removing the rear, or stiffening the front. It seems to have enough roll stiffness, so I'm inclined to go with less rear bar. Shock stiffness is set at the Ohlins recommended 10 clicks front and rear.

FWIW: my first runs at our recent autocross were in a late model Cayman R with high-performance street tiers. What a nice car, responsive and easy to drive at the limit! I did a couple laps in it and then the RX7. The RX7 seemed a little lighter, smaller, and more nimble. And it was also faster, probably as I am much more familiar with it, and on R compound tires. The transition was remarkable easy between the two, which I take as a kudos to the RX7 handle with the Ohlins on it.

 

Try using the 94 rear bar, it's thinner compared to the 93 and 95.

 

Here's a short update after my second autocross.

I decided to make a notable change with sway bars, and disconnected my rear bar.

WOW! The handling at our autocross last weekend was amazing. Very neutral for me. I was able to get power down well coming out of corners (well, some judicious application of throttle still required) and it was well controlled. Turn in was excellent, no notable understeer push. My relative times to the competition was also improved - a good bottom line!

I'm going to stick with this!
Coilovers: Ohlins: 11k front and rear. Set at the recommended 10 clicks.
Front Sway bar: Tri-Point, 0.188 wall (their medium one), set in the middle.
Rear bar: None
Tires: 245/45-16 R compounds all around. (Well, this may change as tires are done, but I'll stay with the square setup.)

 

Oh cool! I have been wondering how my FD would be with rear bar disconnected and the Ohlies as I really liked how much traction over uneven surfaces my TII had with no rear bar.

 

gonna have to try that.

 

Just curious if you've had any bump stop issues. And what the overall balance would do if you evenly take the car down a bit (read 1/2") all the way around.

Sorry for being a newb, but I come from a stance backdrop and was hoping to get the ohlins lower for daily stanced driving and then swap a set of race wheels for track time. Was worried about the bump issue.

 

I haven't had any bump stop issues, or issues with compliance on the street or autocross. Just did my second autocross yesterday with this setup, and still say: WOW! I did run a new tire & wheel combo yesterday, 18x10's all around with 285/30 AD08s. Very nice combo, fills up the fronts to the max, and performs very well.

I'm reluctant to go any lower, I have about 5" under the front airdam and its a pita as it is. Front tire clearance would likely be an issue if I went any lower as well.
You can certainly set these lower, but I didn't feel a need, but every setup is different, and we are all looking for slightly different things as we personalize our cars. Tire and wheel sizes affect what you can do as well.

 

Thanks man, the coils sound perfect, they are certainly high up on my list.