FD Coilover question: Buddy club or megan racing?
#26
Originally Posted by DriftDreamzSS
You would be suprised in the ride quality of the higher spring rate setups these days. All the companies seem to have made vast improvments in their damper valving even in the low end models over the last few years. Have you considered the stance coilovers, they are supposed to feel awesome and have stateside support for easy rebuilds. I think a huge factor in streetability is the valving. Just take a ride in any car on silk roads, they have comparable spring rates but ride smooth as buttah!
-Jeff
#27
And why is it that you think that they need swift springs? Since you seem to think they're so superior, please elighten us as to why they are so great.
Having a company be able to do rebuilds and revalves is a big plus over just selling you a replacement in my books, because it'll allow you to be able to better tune the car's handling if you decide to change spring rates down the road, then you're not just stuck with the stock valving.
Having a company be able to do rebuilds and revalves is a big plus over just selling you a replacement in my books, because it'll allow you to be able to better tune the car's handling if you decide to change spring rates down the road, then you're not just stuck with the stock valving.
#28
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
And why is it that you think that they need swift springs? Since you seem to think they're so superior, please elighten us as to why they are so great.
Having a company be able to do rebuilds and revalves is a big plus over just selling you a replacement in my books, because it'll allow you to be able to better tune the car's handling if you decide to change spring rates down the road, then you're not just stuck with the stock valving.
Having a company be able to do rebuilds and revalves is a big plus over just selling you a replacement in my books, because it'll allow you to be able to better tune the car's handling if you decide to change spring rates down the road, then you're not just stuck with the stock valving.
-Jeff
P.S. Not trying to argue, but those were my 2 cents. You are to your own opinion. I gave mine.
Last edited by TRISPEEDFD3S; 11-20-06 at 12:34 AM. Reason: Add
#29
Well I wasn't just looking for an "Ooooh, aaaaaah, look, they use these in racing! They must be better!". What I want is why you think that one should throw away perfectly good springs, spend another several hundred dollars getting new springs and going through the work of changing them.
They may have some advantages, but I HIGHLY doubt that these will be apparent on a street car. Maybe if you're running into problems with coil bind then they'll help, but they'll be more suseptable to fatigue and permanent deformation if they're allowed to coil bind because of the higher stresses and strains in the wire due to it being thinner and with fewer coils. There's also other ways to combat coil bind. As for the unsprung weight, especially in an FD with it's high motion ratio suspension, it'll take a lot of reduced weight for it to be apparent. The spring is after all only 1/2 sprung weight, add that to the ~0.66 (IIRC) motion ratio and you get that to get the equivalent benefit of a 1lb reduction of weight at the wheel, you'll need the springs to be about 3lbs lighter. It'll be hardly noticable, especially on a street car with lots of squishy rubber bushings.
Save your money, leave the springs in there, the cost/benefit ratio is terrible.
They may have some advantages, but I HIGHLY doubt that these will be apparent on a street car. Maybe if you're running into problems with coil bind then they'll help, but they'll be more suseptable to fatigue and permanent deformation if they're allowed to coil bind because of the higher stresses and strains in the wire due to it being thinner and with fewer coils. There's also other ways to combat coil bind. As for the unsprung weight, especially in an FD with it's high motion ratio suspension, it'll take a lot of reduced weight for it to be apparent. The spring is after all only 1/2 sprung weight, add that to the ~0.66 (IIRC) motion ratio and you get that to get the equivalent benefit of a 1lb reduction of weight at the wheel, you'll need the springs to be about 3lbs lighter. It'll be hardly noticable, especially on a street car with lots of squishy rubber bushings.
Save your money, leave the springs in there, the cost/benefit ratio is terrible.
#30
Just to add, the replacement springs are $168 a pair. Megan coils are around $900, Buddy Club Racing Spec is around $1,100, Stance are around $1,100, and Stance with Swift springs are around $1,436.
#31
The BC RSD's are only about $1100 without upper mounts, with them they're about $1400.
$168 for a pair of springs isn't that bad, but it'll still add $336 to the cost of a set of coilovers, and will add little to no performance. I maintain that it's not worth it unless you're running into coil bind and cannot solve the problem any other way, or if you're looking to getthe last little advantage suspension wise after maximising everything else. I'd certainly worry about fatigue with them.
$168 for a pair of springs isn't that bad, but it'll still add $336 to the cost of a set of coilovers, and will add little to no performance. I maintain that it's not worth it unless you're running into coil bind and cannot solve the problem any other way, or if you're looking to getthe last little advantage suspension wise after maximising everything else. I'd certainly worry about fatigue with them.
#32
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Coilovers do offer alot if you get the right ones. My old JIC SF1's lost suspension travel when lowered and were not dampened correctly. Their support sucked. The only benefit they had was the free pillowball mounts included. With my new Buddy club's I can adjust dampening, has upper pillowball mounts and most importantly (if done correctly) you can lower the car and retain full travel length. Lowering springs will not do that. You also don't have to worry about choosing the wrong spring/damper combo with seperate lowering springs and replacement dampers. On my CRX H&R springs with Tokico adjustables worked very well but not with KYB adjustables, even when switching to softer Eibachs it could not handle the lower stance and was a terrible ride especially with only 4 settings, it couldn't be dialed in correctly.
#33
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Originally Posted by TRISPEEDFD3S
Just to add, the replacement springs are $168 a pair. Megan coils are around $900, Buddy Club Racing Spec is around $1,100, Stance are around $1,100, and Stance with Swift springs are around $1,436.
Buddy Club Racing Spec is about $1600 (I have these on my car)
Buddy Club N+ are about $1100
Apexi EXV are about $1100
#34
www.sp-power.com
They've got the BC RSD w/o pillow ***** for $1130 for the FD, and w/ pillow ***** for the FD for $1480. That's the absolute cheapest place I've seen, most other places have prices more like $1600 for the RSD, and $1100 for the D1 (N+ is what they call the Honda/Acura ones, but they're the same coilovers).
They've got the BC RSD w/o pillow ***** for $1130 for the FD, and w/ pillow ***** for the FD for $1480. That's the absolute cheapest place I've seen, most other places have prices more like $1600 for the RSD, and $1100 for the D1 (N+ is what they call the Honda/Acura ones, but they're the same coilovers).
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