FD caliper bridge bolt
#1
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Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 761
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From: Walnut, CA
FD caliper bridge bolt
Hi there,
I accidently removed one of the front caliper bridge bolt, I put it back rightaway, but in the shop manual it doesn't mention the torque spec for that bolt, it just has a caution saying do not remove the caliper bridge bolt.
What have I done by removing one of the caliper bridge bolt? How do I put it back properly.
thanks,
Randy
I accidently removed one of the front caliper bridge bolt, I put it back rightaway, but in the shop manual it doesn't mention the torque spec for that bolt, it just has a caution saying do not remove the caliper bridge bolt.
What have I done by removing one of the caliper bridge bolt? How do I put it back properly.
thanks,
Randy
#2
Bringing 5-year old thread back from the dead because this applies to me as well.
I inadvertently removed all FOUR caliper bridge bolts to the point where it split down the middle and some brake fluid leaked out. I was able to re-tighten them to 50ft/lb of torque and after flushing the system, there appears to be no leaks from the caliper, yet.
Should I be worried? Should I open it up and re-seal with a gasket solution?
Thanks,
Kevin
I inadvertently removed all FOUR caliper bridge bolts to the point where it split down the middle and some brake fluid leaked out. I was able to re-tighten them to 50ft/lb of torque and after flushing the system, there appears to be no leaks from the caliper, yet.
Should I be worried? Should I open it up and re-seal with a gasket solution?
Thanks,
Kevin
#3
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
Please download the appropriate manuals for your cars and study them before doing any more work on them.
Please download the appropriate manuals for your cars and study them before doing any more work on them.
#4
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
Please download the appropriate manuals for your cars and study them before doing any more work on them.
Please download the appropriate manuals for your cars and study them before doing any more work on them.
#5
Well, if you can't find torque specs you might want to consider this:
-Put the bolts back in hand tight.
-Get the other caliper (the one that you didn't remove the bolts from
-Get your torque wrench out and starting at the lowest setting (like 10 ft/lbs) start incrementing until the bolt actually turns. By doing this you probably have found the what that bolt was torqued to.
Just an idea if you can't find the proper torque specs. Alternatively, you can go to NAPA and order a reman caliper and give them that caliper as a core.
-Put the bolts back in hand tight.
-Get the other caliper (the one that you didn't remove the bolts from
-Get your torque wrench out and starting at the lowest setting (like 10 ft/lbs) start incrementing until the bolt actually turns. By doing this you probably have found the what that bolt was torqued to.
Just an idea if you can't find the proper torque specs. Alternatively, you can go to NAPA and order a reman caliper and give them that caliper as a core.
#6
You're missing the point of his reply. It addresses your problem so that you can answer your own question. Had you READ the manual BEFORE you started taking things apart you would not have INADVERTENTLY removed the bolts.
#7
Mazda does not list all fastener torque settings because certain parts are not normally taken apart. This also applies to the stock turbos.
You will just have to inadvertently find the value.
You will just have to inadvertently find the value.
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#8
Perhaps you should re-read my initial post. Thanks.
#9
Originally Posted by kevinvr6
Should I be worried? Should I open it up and re-seal with a gasket solution?
If you follow some of the other brake company's recommendations, the bolts are changed out if the caliper is dismantled. A high temp loctite might be an idea too. Can't remember whether they're 12 or 10 x 1.25, in steel, the standard spec for 12.9 ones was somewhere around 57. I imagine one of the issues is the alloy in calipers gets softer and softer, so torque spec is a moveable feast......interesting Mazda does list replacement bolts though!
#10
Bought some calipers off this forum, pedal and bleeding was totally normal. Bloke had disassembled to paint them.....ended up with total brake failure after one opened up in use - fortunately at low speed. I'd give the goop idea the flick.
If you follow some of the other brake company's recommendations, the bolts are changed out if the caliper is dismantled. A high temp loctite might be an idea too. Can't remember whether they're 12 or 10 x 1.25, in steel, the standard spec for 12.9 ones was somewhere around 57. I imagine one of the issues is the alloy in calipers gets softer and softer, so torque spec is a moveable feast......interesting Mazda does list replacement bolts though!
If you follow some of the other brake company's recommendations, the bolts are changed out if the caliper is dismantled. A high temp loctite might be an idea too. Can't remember whether they're 12 or 10 x 1.25, in steel, the standard spec for 12.9 ones was somewhere around 57. I imagine one of the issues is the alloy in calipers gets softer and softer, so torque spec is a moveable feast......interesting Mazda does list replacement bolts though!
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