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Old 04-15-03, 02:51 PM
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Coilover suggestions

I've been trying to correct the excessive body roll problems with my racecar and I'm decided to go with the coilover springs or the complete coilover kits. I'd like to run a fairly stiff spring rate (probably 700/400-450), so it's important that the setup be well matched. Anyone running coilover springs with Koni Yellows? How is the setup? Are the Yellows underdamped with the stiff springs?

I've also considered the integrated coilover setups. I've searched through Tein, JiC-Magic, and Endless-Zeal products and found nothing made for the FD3S that satsifies the specific need (if I'm going to get an integrated setup, I'd want independent compression/rebound adjustment). Understandably, I could custom order something from any of the aforementioned manufacturers ... but that would probably be a huge PIA (b/c I'd want to match the custom valving to the custom spring rates). That said, it seems like the Advanced Design doubles with the GC coilovers is the only available, affordable option. Any other suggestions not in the exorbitant price range (ala Penske, Aragosta, Koni 2812's)?
Old 04-15-03, 03:40 PM
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M2 sells there (Double Adjustable Shocks by DMS)

they are still pretty pricy at $2350 but I think you can get them custom tailored to your every need.
http://www.m2performance.com/

not sure if this helps or not.

James
93 mb
Old 04-15-03, 03:47 PM
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Check out DMS coilovers, they're adjustable for both compression and rebound. They won't cost you and arm and a leg; just an arm.

Their spring rate for the FD is a 550lb front, 450lb rear.

Available from Jason, link above for RX7store.net (good price, make sure they have the GC top hats)
or
M2
http://www.m2performance.com/

Mark
Old 04-15-03, 05:28 PM
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Kewl. Thanks for the suggestion. I actually went to the DMS website and they have some neat stuff.

www.dmshocks.com

Any other suggestions? Anybody with the GC/M2 coilovers and Koni Yellows?
Old 04-15-03, 08:55 PM
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try a set of thick sway bars front and rear. sway bars control body roll, while springs control dive and squat (and to a lesser extent body roll).
Old 04-15-03, 11:05 PM
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I have a friend with the double adjustable Koni Yellows and GC kit on his FD. It is okay, but it has taken him a long time to learn how to tune them properly.

I have JIC FLT-A2's on my FD. They are rated at 12 kg/mm front and 9 kg/mm rear. Which is around 672 lb/in front and 504 lb/in rear. The ride is very firm yet surprisingly comfortable. There is a firm resistance over bumps, but it is not jarring. I think it is a very smooth ride personally.

My friend has driven my car also and I think if he had to do all over he would go with the JIC's. The Koni/GC kit is firm yet it is also jarring. I think if you are a smooth driver then you would enjoy the JIC's over the Koni/GC. To each his own though.

- Cody
Old 04-16-03, 10:00 AM
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Originally posted by Joker
try a set of thick sway bars front and rear. sway bars control body roll, while springs control dive and squat (and to a lesser extent body roll).
I've already got the Tri-Point front sway bar. The sway bar will help with the body roll, but it will only mask a spring problem. I think it's different between different platforms. On a Miata, sway bars are everything ... with such a short wheelbase, the swaybars have much more effect than springs. At least, this is what Andy Hollis says (Evolution school instructor and a Solo II National Champ).

I've thought about the rear sway bar, but I'd like to keep it planted ... so I'll stick with the '93 stock sway bar until I think I need it. Plus, where the roll is most evident is in sweepers ... where springs/coilovers are the biggest bang.
Old 04-16-03, 10:03 AM
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Originally posted by VTAOE
I have a friend with the double adjustable Koni Yellows and GC kit on his FD. It is okay, but it has taken him a long time to learn how to tune them properly.

I have JIC FLT-A2's on my FD. They are rated at 12 kg/mm front and 9 kg/mm rear. Which is around 672 lb/in front and 504 lb/in rear. The ride is very firm yet surprisingly comfortable. There is a firm resistance over bumps, but it is not jarring. I think it is a very smooth ride personally.

My friend has driven my car also and I think if he had to do all over he would go with the JIC's. The Koni/GC kit is firm yet it is also jarring. I think if you are a smooth driver then you would enjoy the JIC's over the Koni/GC. To each his own though.

- Cody
Cody, the JIC FLT-A2's adjust compression and rebound simultaneously or independently? From their website, it looks like it's simultaneously. Is that correct?

And your friend, what spring rates is he running with the GC kit? I'm planning on running a fairly stiff spring rate. I'm wondering whether or not your friend has underdamped his Koni's?

TIA.
Old 04-16-03, 10:34 AM
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FWIW you can get your Konis custom valved for just under $150 each, but they will still only be single adjustable.
Old 04-16-03, 11:34 AM
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Yeah. But the double-adjustable conversion is $300 per corner. For that price, I could just get the AD doubles and sell my old Koni's .... shoulda never left stock class.
Old 04-16-03, 11:52 AM
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Yep. Yep. And Yep.
Old 04-16-03, 02:11 PM
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JIC are simultaneous adjustment. That's correct.
Old 04-16-03, 09:27 PM
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Like Rishie said. They have simultaneous adjustment. If you happen to get Sport Compact Car magazine then you should look at the November 2002. It is the magazine with an RSX with Tein plastered on the front of it. They used the JIC FLT-A2's on their project Nissan Silvia car. This is what they had to say:

"The FLT-A2 shocks are 15-way single adjustable, which basically means you get a 15-position **** to change rebound damping. Compression damping does change slightly as well, but you can't adjust it independently."

As for my friends spring rates. I think he had 500 lbs/in in the front and 350 lbs/in in the rear. His springs are also 7 inches long. Tripoint suggest that you use 500-550 lbs/in in the front and 300-350 lbs/in in the rear. So that is what he went with. If you get the GC kit then you need to make sure you get the 7 inch springs. I think they were 7 inches anyway. I know they were one inch longer than the ones GC suggests. If you get the 6 inch ones then you will run out of adjustment before you stop rubbing if you have 17" rims.

- Cody
Old 04-17-03, 08:54 AM
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Thanks, Cody. I'll have to consult the GC experts as to whether a 700 lb spring rate is too much for the Koni Yellows. Kewl.
Old 04-20-03, 01:20 AM
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Just remember that to make your car roll half as much, you would basicly need a spring twice as strong...
thats not always practical, you have to take a look at other parts of the system. Try getting some Sway bars too. make sure that there is 2 in the system and at least th rear is adjustable.

You said you dident like the tiens? Did you look at the RA's? they have some pretty heavy rate, says 895lb/in on the tien site. The setup is for racing and has a linear rate spring. Double adjust.

im going to go with the RA's for my FC.
Old 04-20-03, 08:16 AM
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That's why I'm looking for a setup around 650-700/400-450. I already have the Tri-Point front swaybar and I'm convinced that running stiffer springs will have the bigger benefit.

RA's are simultaneously double-adjustable. I'm looking for independently double-adjustable. Tein does make a different damper that satisfies the need ... just not for FD's. I guess the nice thing is that the RA's don't move bump too much, and mostly affects rebound. 900lb is maybe a little too stiff, I think ....
Old 04-20-03, 11:05 AM
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IF you have deep pockets and are serious then the ONLY way to go is Dynamic Suspension by Multimatic.
Old 04-20-03, 09:22 PM
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Oh! i always thought the RA's had independent adjustments for bump and rebound. Guess not!
Old 04-20-03, 09:30 PM
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The Tein Type RS and Type N1 dampers have independent bump and rebound .... but they don't make them for RX-7's. At least, not according to their website. Who knows, maybe they can custom build a set of RA's with the external reservoir. Probably cost you an arm and a leg ...

racerjason, I'm trying not to break the bank here. Plus, Multimatic's 4-way adjustables look like way too much for my application. As if I didn't have enough ***** to turn, now factor in low-speed and high-speed dampening .... uh boy.
Old 04-21-03, 01:05 AM
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Anyone can post about their experience on JIC FLTA2, Zeal/Endless, Tein HA or RA for autocross?
Detail comment or complaint is good

Reza
Old 04-21-03, 12:12 PM
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Originally posted by reza
Anyone can post about their experience on JIC FLTA2, Zeal/Endless, Tein HA or RA for autocross?
Detail comment or complaint is good

Reza
you still didn't buy any?!

just buy a set, if you don't like them, sell them and get another. =p

(buy mine, hint hint)
Old 04-21-03, 12:25 PM
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hey....
i know i know....
calvin is having trouble with his set of Tein HA at autocross. That is why I am not so sure about the Tein HAs...
I am wondering how the JIC FLTA2 performs on autocross.
The only combo I know good is the GAB Super-R with GC kit. But everyone else have that so no fun...

Reza
Old 04-21-03, 12:40 PM
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Originally posted by reza
hey....
i know i know....
calvin is having trouble with his set of Tein HA at autocross. That is why I am not so sure about the Tein HAs...
Ask him again, he adjusted them.
Old 03-04-05, 10:13 AM
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In 2005, what are the currently available coilovers with independently adjustable compression and rebound ?

Will any take a stock spring (for SCCA Super Stock) ?

Thanks,
:-) neil
Old 03-04-05, 11:28 AM
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Red rotor I have been running the GC and koni yellows for about 5 years now. Started with 600 f / 450 rear stock yellows. Then had Tri-Point revalve them for autoxing. Then went to 550 f / 350 rear. Now I am going to be running 800 f / 600 r with the koni yellows. I spoke to koni about the shocks being valved for the other setup and asked if they would need to be redone. I also asked if they would work since I heard they would not be able to control the springs. They said the shocks would handle the springs fine and would not need to be revalved for the stiffer set up.

Spank



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