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Breaking in new brake pads?

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Old 06-26-05 | 12:09 PM
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Breaking in new brake pads?

I cannot remember what you call it but do you need to "heat cycle/break-in" new brake pads? I have a set of AXXIS metal masters, and I though I read somewhere you should break in new pads but I cannot remember where I saw it.
Old 06-26-05 | 12:49 PM
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Try this:

Bedding-in Street Performance Pads

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green’ pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
Old 06-26-05 | 09:53 PM
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Thanks Mahjik!

BTW where did you get that from? And is it really necessary? Or atleast doing it two or three times?
Old 06-26-05 | 10:28 PM
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That came from Stop-Tech:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedinfaq.htm

IMO, you should be fine if you can get five or six 60mph -> 10mph stops, and then letting them cool. If you can do 10, that would be good but I wouldn't do a second set of 10 myself.
Old 06-27-05 | 01:41 AM
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Stoptech has a GREAT tech section. Read it & learn.

I wish I could do more than 5-6 stops with my brakes before they fade into oblivion. Bedded them in a month ago (they had become unbedded through a lot of gentle stops - ferrets in an RX-7 (in a cage) don't lead to much ability to hammer on it). By #5 I was feeling fade, and by #8 it was pure engine braking. 20 miles of driving later, the wheels were still too hot to touch :-)

But DAMN, the rotors looked fine... beautiful greyish blue over the entire pad contact area.

-=Russ=-
Old 06-27-05 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Syonyk
But DAMN, the rotors looked fine... beautiful greyish blue over the entire pad contact area.
Uh, I don't think it's supposed to be blue.
Blue implies something is burning...usually the brake pads.
That usually means it's getting too hot for the brake pads you're using.


-Ted
Old 06-27-05 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Uh, I don't think it's supposed to be blue.
If I've had the rotors freshly turned mine will be a gunmetal blue after getting them really hot during pad break in. I don't know if what I'm seeing is really the rotor or actually the transfer layer, but the blueness goes away after more use. I've never had problems.
Old 06-27-05 | 11:54 AM
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Yeah, bluing of the rotor is usually a sign that the pad (usually the resin component of the brake pad binding) is burning.
If the bluing is persistent, that's a bad sign.
If it goes away, it's okay.


-Ted
Old 06-27-05 | 01:08 PM
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The rotors should be covered with a blue-grey film after proper pad bed-in.
Old 07-09-05 | 09:38 PM
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Thanks for the help. I did not get a chance to read the whole page about the bedding process, since I just now found time to instll my new pads. I have a few more more questions. Why do you want to bed the pads in? And is it necessary to do so, even if pretty much only seeing street use? Syonyk mentioned his became unbedded after alot of gentle stops, is this normal?

I did notice recently that my OE brake pads were chattering/pulsating is this a symptom of them needing bedded?

Last edited by eyecandy; 07-09-05 at 09:42 PM.
Old 07-09-05 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by eyecandy
Thanks for the help. I did not get a chance to read the whole page about the bedding process, since I just now found time to instll my new pads. I have a few more more questions. Why do you want to bed the pads in? And is it necessary to do so, even if pretty much only seeing street use? Syonyk mentioned his became unbedded after alot of gentle stops, is this normal?

I did notice recently that my OE brake pads were chattering/pulsating is this a symptom of them needing bedded?
Pretty much all your questions are answered on the Stoptech sight.
Old 07-10-05 | 12:33 AM
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The current issue of grassroots motorsports has an article on this topic. It tells you how to "break in" street and race pads. Its pretty much the same info as what Mahjik posted.
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