Are the Brake Kits Really Worth It?
#1
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What funny smell?
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Are the Brake Kits Really Worth It?
I plan to take my FD to the track several times this year. I am running in the HPDE2 class of NASA, so nothing competitive, just for fun.
I was considering upgrading from the stock brake system. For my needs though, is it really worth the money? Rotary Performance sells an upgrade kit that replaces rotors, pads and includes fluid and stainless lines for $600. Anything beyond that is well over $1500 for the fronts alone.
From you guys with experience, are the kits worth the investment at the stage I am in?
Thank You
I was considering upgrading from the stock brake system. For my needs though, is it really worth the money? Rotary Performance sells an upgrade kit that replaces rotors, pads and includes fluid and stainless lines for $600. Anything beyond that is well over $1500 for the fronts alone.
From you guys with experience, are the kits worth the investment at the stage I am in?
Thank You
#2
They are only worth it if you need it. You'll know when you need a BBK as you'll have run through all the other options and are fading track pads and cracking stock sized rotors. At HPDE 2, you probably don't need them. Once you are doing HPDE4, that might be different.
Read some of GooRoo's posts in the Suspension section (might be in this section also).
Read some of GooRoo's posts in the Suspension section (might be in this section also).
#3
Thread Starter
What funny smell?
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
So, should I check out the kit from Rotary Performance and get new rotors, pads, lines?
This is my third FD, just bought it last week, so before I take it to the track I plan to at least give the brakes a close look.
Thanks
This is my third FD, just bought it last week, so before I take it to the track I plan to at least give the brakes a close look.
Thanks
#4
I do NOT plan to track my FD and plan on ordering a Brembo f50 brake kit for my car. In your situation, I think the extra money is definitely justified assuming the rest of your car is well sorted. I MIGHT be able to work out a deal with you, I have a good condition, Greddy 4 pot 330mm big brake kit coming from Japan in about 3 weeks, MSRP is $3100.
#6
Bryan
#7
You'll be fine with stock brakes for HPDE 2. SPICcnmFD has tracked his car for a long time and still uses stock brakes. He competes in SCCA and NASA TT. He also won the Speed For Sale Shootout 2007 TT. As mentioned above, you'll know when you need them. As far as replacement stuff if you are on a budget/trying to save money for other stuff... SS braided lines should be a little less than $100. If you got something like Motul 600, that should be less than $100 as well. Hawk Blue's should be $100 or less. That just leaves you with rotors, which I think you can find for less than $300. Alot of the rotors at parts stores come with life time warranty, so if they crack, you can prob. exchange them at least once I think a major weak point in the stock brakes is the rear brakes. They tend to crack rotors due to not getting enough cooling.
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#9
1. Track
Different tracks are harder or easier on brakes.
2. Tires
The sticker the tire, the faster you'll go and the more brakes you'll need.
3. Your ability
The better you are, the faster you'll want to go
In the least, you'll want the following:
* SS lines
* Brake fluid with good boiling points
* Track brake pad for the front, upgraded street pad for the rear
#10
You are right, my recommendation wasn't for the best brake pad though. It was for a good brake pad at a reasonable price. If I remember correctly, the DTC's cost me close to $200. I've only ran HT-10's in the rear, but they were around $50 more expensive than the blues. Either way, the OP has plenty of recommendations for brake pads now to best fit his budget.
#11
Thread Starter
What funny smell?
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
what about this kit guys? - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-B...Q5fAccessories
Saw it on ebay, looked like a good price, but I may just look into the track pads, lines and fluid like you recommend.
I have track'd before a few times, my confidence level is pretty good and I am comfortable at speed. The area where I need improvement is definetly braking late into corners. My confidence and skill level aren't as high in that area.
Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.
Saw it on ebay, looked like a good price, but I may just look into the track pads, lines and fluid like you recommend.
I have track'd before a few times, my confidence level is pretty good and I am comfortable at speed. The area where I need improvement is definetly braking late into corners. My confidence and skill level aren't as high in that area.
Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.
#12
You are right, my recommendation wasn't for the best brake pad though. It was for a good brake pad at a reasonable price. If I remember correctly, the DTC's cost me close to $200. I've only ran HT-10's in the rear, but they were around $50 more expensive than the blues. Either way, the OP has plenty of recommendations for brake pads now to best fit his budget.
OP - Mahjik had some good old posts on brake pad selection that you might want to search for. He has tried more pads than I have.
#13
Thread Starter
What funny smell?
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
so I'm thinking about that kit mentioned above for the front, plus buying some new rotors, ss lines, and more aggressive pads for the rear to even out the bias better.
I figured that kit is only 90$ more than the full bonez kit from rx7.com, and I will get new calipers out of it.
Or, I just may buy new pads, ss lines, fluid and get the stock rotors turned (if applicable) and call it a day.
always appreciate the feedback.
I figured that kit is only 90$ more than the full bonez kit from rx7.com, and I will get new calipers out of it.
Or, I just may buy new pads, ss lines, fluid and get the stock rotors turned (if applicable) and call it a day.
always appreciate the feedback.
#14
If you go that route, make sure you know what size rotors and pads will work with the kit (for when you need to replace your wear items). Some kits have a small range of replacement part choices which IMO makes them a worse investment (i.e. you may only have 1 or 2 brands of track pads to pick from).
#15
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What funny smell?
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 567
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
my mistake, that kit above on ebay is for the FC only. I think I will take this advice and get some pads, ss lines, quality fluid and go from there. I will pull the rotors off tomorrow and see if they need to be replaced or simply turned. If they're not worth saving, I plan to get a kit that includes rotors.
Thanks
Thanks
#16
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJWelWerSgQ
i think they said they are using stock ones on the re car.
i think they said they are using stock ones on the re car.
#18
#21
Buy a bbk sooner than later if track days are in your future. If you're only doing a lap or two, stock brakes will suffice, but if running 20-30 minute sessions they are going to be your car's weak link . Pad life is also pretty bad with the stockers, more heat + same sized leading and trailing caliper pistons will eat your $$ pads in a hurry.
#23
You don't need a BBK for most tracks, certainly not in the beginning. They are NEVER necessary for a street only car.
Get good track pads, flush the lines, and fresh rotors. You don't need fancy slotted/drilled/cryo rotors either - Napa blanks work for me. It's not as if the moment your brakes fade you will run head-on into a wall. If you do manage to overwork them, you will begin to feel the pedal getting soft or less bite when you are under braking. If that happens just cool it for a lap or two and don't brake as hard or late on the big braking zones, you can still carry plenty of speed everywhere else.
Dave
Get good track pads, flush the lines, and fresh rotors. You don't need fancy slotted/drilled/cryo rotors either - Napa blanks work for me. It's not as if the moment your brakes fade you will run head-on into a wall. If you do manage to overwork them, you will begin to feel the pedal getting soft or less bite when you are under braking. If that happens just cool it for a lap or two and don't brake as hard or late on the big braking zones, you can still carry plenty of speed everywhere else.
Dave
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