R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

it all depends on his front setup. But in any way IMO, it shouldnt exceed the 300-310mm rotor diameter

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

the link i gave on my previous post shows the calipers that use the OEM handbrake.

That shouldnt worry you too much though. Since you gonna make a custom setup you might as well use the hydrolic pump

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

http://www.srmotorsports.com/sr93susp.html

Mazdaspeed rear brake kit

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

i highly doubt these are mazdaspeed... i have a few cataloques of mazdaspeed and none offer rear kit for the fd ... especially on that price...
You find second hand mazdaspeed front brakes for 4500-5000 from japan..

str8ryd

iTrader: (473)

This is the setup I'm running on my FD. Brembo BBK in the front and the '99 brake setup in the rear. Haven't tested it yet, but I imagine it'll be fine for what I require.

superdan50

iTrader: (3)

i would like to get an aggressive setup for road racing, how ever i want to retain the hand brake function, since i would like to get into drifting more. im getting better, but havent been using the e-brake but rather do it at like 20mph rev and drop in 2nd to brake em loose.

jcurtis

iTrader: (1)

i want that!

superdan50

iTrader: (3)

how about a set of c6 z06 brakes? they are 6 pot in front, and 4 in the rear? the z06 has a handbrake that would mean there is no reason for a caliper specifically for the handbrake and one for regular use. i will check when i get to work tomorrow, and post the results.

superdan50

iTrader: (3)

scratch that idea. the z06 has a drum style e brake inside the rear rotor. time for a new plan

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

AtomicRex in England has a 4-wheel kit that includes 4-piston rears WITH an e-brake. They are rebadged HiSpec calipers.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Like everything else that guy sells, I'm sure it's a rebadged item you can buy elsewhere for 2/3rds the price.

SR Ultimate rad=koyo
'Mazdaspeed' PPF=stock PPF painted red
etc etc.

RxVIIracer

Check the thread out when you get a chance, here's my 2 bits....

I have Stoptech's in front 332mm x 32mm, with the (RB)RacingBrake rear kit 322mm x 20mm.

http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_REAR_...2107-311-0.htm

http://www.powerslot.com/partsapp/re...categories=22&

Its a decent track set up without having to mess with a proprtioning vavle, though with a proportioning valve it can be tuned to anyones particular style of driving for the track or street. Another advantage of using the stock rear caliper is your unsprung weight doesn't increase too much, no messing with additional mechanisms, and no worrying about reliablity issues.

I like this set up, it works well, I recommend it!!

superdan50

iTrader: (3)

how much better do u feel ur setup stops than stock? can u feel a good difference with the lager rear rotor over stock?

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

Would moving the stock front brakes to the back enable the usage of the e-brake?

RxVIIracer

My thoughts about my Stoptech/ Racing brake setup; Requires less pedal force to slow the vehicle, though especially with street tires it requires more pedal discipline, I find that to get the most effective braking you need to get on the brakes real light at first, JUST enough to shift the weight to the front wheels, then really push down PROGRESSIVELY on the brakes before the anti-lock kicks in(I NOTICED THE WHEELS WILL SOUND LIKE THERE LOCKING UP BEFORE THE ANTI -LOCK KICKS IN, BUT THE WHEELS ARE ONLY MOVING SLIGHTLY SLOWER THAN THE GRIP ITS PRODUCING.)

The pedal feel and response is definitely NOT of an OEM car. With the stock brake you can SLAM them down RELYING on the antilock, and the brakes work fairly well. IT SEEMS WITH THE STOPTECH'S IF YOU SLAM DOWN ON THE BRAKES AND NOT ALLOW THE WEIGHT SHIFT TO THE FRONT, THE WHEELS INEFFECTIVLY PULSATE TO STOP, AND YOUR STOPPING DISTANCE SEEMS TO INCREASE. In my opinion its better to drive the car like it has no antilock, applying impeding lockup techniques. Antilock DOES NOT seem to be as effective with the big brake setup.

Don't get me wrong the stopping power is much stronger, With the bigger brakes I noticed I can brake later on the tracks used to visit, . Brake fade is definitely decreased, At the track I would find a brake marker and apply it as such, by the end of the run, and esspecially at the end of the track day that brake marker would have to be adjusted a great distance to compensate for the brake fade. I can now consistanly use the same brake marker wihout adjusting.
I used to wear pads out real aggressively, now its barely noticeable at the end of a track day.

As far as the larger rear rotors, there's not really any significantly huge difference especially for the street and the average track day driver, though I find if you push the vehicle to its potential limit and apply left foot braking or late braking the rear seems point and shoot more consistanly compared to the stock rotors especially when you've been doing it lap after lap. Also for drifting or gymkana, I find the E-brake is SLIGHTLY more responsive with the larger rotors.

I think the rear rotor upgrade is not essential, though with the feeling of more consistant performance it gives you more confidence to drive closer to the vehicle's limits.

Everybody's prefereces are different, these are just my personal findings.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

FWIW, that Racing Brake rear caliper adapter is essentially the same as the OEM '99 RZ rear caliper.

(a comparison of my old cooked OEM rear calipers and the '99 RZ caliper I use with a 315mmx20mm Precision Brake two piece rear rotor. I used to crack rear rotors regularly att he track...not anymore.

And as an aside the key to brake longevity, IMHO, is not to add bigger rotors and more mass but to add better cooling. Ducting is the key.

Regards,
Crispy

RxVIIracer

Great info in general !! About the brake ductiing....do you have any pics of your ducting? I love to get some ideas to adopt your recommendations....

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

^ http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/dedicatedducting.htm

I am quite limited in my ducting options because I use a '99 front end. But I think you get the idea. Those of you with aftermarket front ends can scoop much more airflow than I can and will therefore benefit considerably more. I added the ducting after I cracked a set of AP rotors on my BBK.

Regards,
Crispy

superdan50

iTrader: (3)

awesome write up, thanks

dclin

iTrader: (4)

RE: what ptrhahn posted, AtomicRex/HiSPec calipers:

http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/sierra_2wd_45_deg__up.htm

Even has the right angle for the e-brake boss fitting apparently. Planning on making an adapter to fit to my Racing Brake rear rotors, but have to add that to my laundry list of things to do later.

irishrx7

Im running D2s front and rear on my time attack FD. couldn be happier with them.

old vs new





rears
old vs new

superdan50

iTrader: (3)

what did that setup cost u?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Actually, that is incorrect. The RacingBrake rear caliper adaptor is longer than the 99 RZ rear caliper to accommodate the larger diameter RacingBrake rear brake rotor.

I know that to be 100% accurate since I upgraded from the 99 kit to the RacingBrake kit.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

^Ok. Let me clarify what I meant by "essentially the same." The '99 rear calipers are NOT IDENTICAL to the Racing Brake rear adapter. The Racing brake caliper will allow you to fit a rotor that is 4-7mm larger in diameter. The '99 RZ rear caliper can accept up to a 318mm x 20mm rear rotor even though I only use a 315mm rear rotor since it's a standard size. I guess what one can take away from this is that there are two of these kind of options available. The slightly larger Racing Brake "kit" with improved rotor design, but using only a caliper adapter the more expensive option at close to $1000. On the flipside the '99RZ "package" would be less expensive for those more cost conscious (sorry I don't recall what I paid offhand) and would include new calipers but but with slightly less engineered rotor design.
Thanks for prompting the clarification.
Regards,
Crispy