The probabibility of binding is right at 100%.

I would just keep the OEM rubber bushings the rear arms and use individual adjusters. Go with delrin subframe and diff bushings, and ditch the adjustable center adjuster.

 

You don't think the stock bushings would lead to binding at all?

Would I be able to get away with even a little adjustment using the center adjuster? 0.1 - 0.2 degrees from the centre adjuster would make the individual ones work less and lower the probability of binding.

 

The stock arm bushings will resist movement a bit but not bind. I ran individual adjusters with the OEM rubber rear bushings for a little while and it was not bad. The change to the spherical bearings was not that dramatic.

Think of delrin as solid, it does not move. With rubber subframe bushings you can mess around with the center adjuster to get camber in the ball park, but you will still need to even out the camber with the individual adjusters. If you do that you can't run delrin anywhere.

I would rather have the subframe positively located with delrin, and rubber in the arm (which is held in place by the soild toe link and solid camber adjuster) than delrin everywhere, not aligned perfect and binding.

 

I know Delrin is solid, what I was wondering was:

After the Delrin bushings are installed, how much clearance do you have to work with where the movement is free-play, but because the stock center link is non-adjustable, you're not able to take advantage of it to adjust camber?

I hope I worded that correctly.

 

I understand what you are saying. There is not much if any free play that I noticed when reinstalling my subframe with delrin. I'm sure you can get some adjustment out of it but it wont be much. Plus the camber will still probably be uneven.

 

Thanks for the info.

I feel like any adjustment is beneficial, even if it's negligent as it'll make the individual ones work less.

I'll probably keep your setup in mind. Rubber bushings for the rear, delrin front, subframe and diff. Size the adjustable camber link to equal the stock link in size, install the link. Take out any free play with the adjuster. Do the rest with the individual.

 

Hi Guys,

Thanks again for everyones input and feedback.

Josh18_2k: I am running STOCK front and rear sway bars

LargeOrangeFont: I live in Australia, that is why it is $155USD shipped.

twilight slide: Thanks for the feedback about the MMR DTSS Eliminators. As a result, my shopping list has changed and I will get the AWR units.

So, as it sits now, the parts I will order are...

- Full Energy Suspension Bushing Kit
- MMR Individual Rear Camber Links
- AWR DTSS Eliminators
- AWR Rear Adjustable Lateral (toe) Links

I will, however, do some investigating into buying all the bushes separate so I can use Delrin in the front instead. I will let you know what $$$ I come up with.

 

OK,

So I have started to do some investigating into...

- Who offers the products
- What they charge
- Any specifics worth mentioning

...and have come up with a matrix that makes it much easier to assess ALL products in one easy spot. This will allow me to work out not only the best solution, but the best price too.

Here it is:



As a result of this, I personally think the best way forward for me will be ONE of the following two options...

 

Unless your lateral links have slop in them, you don't need the AWR or SuperNow adjustable replacements.

You can use the factory eccentrics to adjust toe with the spherical arm bearings.

 

OK,

Thats good to know.

So do you use the factory Mazda Adjusting Bolt and Cam Plate on the ends of the new spherical bearings?

 

Yes, you use the OEM Mazda toe eccentrics and mounting hardware.

 

Hi Guys,

Let me just say, I am happy - problem fixed!!

I went back to the wheel aligner to get some finer tuning done on the alignment.

When I arrived at the shop the Aligner said that after the last alignment he did on my car he was concerned about some of the numbers and didn’t think it sounded right.

As they have recently had a brand new state of the art aligner installed (Corghi Exact BlackTech - http://www.corghi.com.au/wheel_aligners.html ) he called the technician and had them come and do a re-calibration. As it turn out a few areas were not exactly calibrated and this would have caused an issue.

We put the car back on the machine and my Caster is ALL OK – which is awesome as this was one area really concerning me.

So we did a full alignment this time, including rear, which was not done last time, and the numbers are great!!

FRONT END

TOE (LEFT / RIGHT)
WAS: +1.2mm / +1.2mm
NOW: +0.7mm / +0.7mm


CAMBER (LEFT / RIGHT)
WAS: -01.20 / -00.45
NOW: -01.50 / -01.50


CASTER (LEFT / RIGHT)
WAS: +04.40 / +06.30
NOW: +04.40 / +04.40


---------------------------------------------------------

REAR END

TOE (LEFT / RIGHT)
WAS: +2.7mm / +2.5mm
NOW: +0.9mm / +0.8mm


CAMBER (LEFT / RIGHT)
WAS: -02.20 / -01.25
NOW: -02.20 / -01.40

So all I need now is the Spherical Rear Control Arm Bushes and the Individual Rear Camber Adjusters and I will be good to go!!

And how does it drive now?? Brilliant!! I love it as it now just feels planted and together.

 

You could use coilovers and camber plates for the front.

 

I already have adjustable JIC Coil Overs and adjustable JIC Camber Tops.

That is how I got such a good front end result.