Is this possible? If so, how?

I'm assuming they'd have to be a certain offset, just not sure what it is...

 

I have put 18x9 with 24mm offset. THey rubbed a little in the front but they were fine in the rear for sure.

 

Currently running 255 40 17's in the front on 17x9 rim - 0 offset. - Only way I could get the CobraR rims. Using a 5.5 adapter w/ extended studs.
Works great perfect shock clearance

Rear has 275 40 17's on a 10.5x17" rim - 0 offset - perfect fit!
No rubbing at all on the trail arm - about 3/8" clearance.

Hope that helped,

TFitz

 

If those are really the offsets then they'll be sticking out past the fenders. Not close, but past them. No way that it's a "perfect fit".

 

Check the sticky at the top of the section. Jimlab put together a great sizing chart with all the fun stats you need for the wheel sizings which will fit the FD, including offset (I am getting 17x8.5 front, and 17x9.5 rears).

Also, if you have not already purchased the wheels and are looking to get them I would *seriously* get up with Connor at Tirerack, he knows his stuff when it comes to rx-7's and can be PM'd on the site.

 

Pictures?

Well this is for an FC, but I'll check it out. I wanted to go 17x9 and not a stagger because I wanted to be able to rotate my tires. Why do a lot of people use the stagger?

 

fitment.

Here's my FC on 17x8 and 9s.

 

Thanks, nice S5. What are the offsets?

 

Because apparently it's cool to have wide rear tires and suffer from understeer.

The fact is that many that run a stagger haven't maxed out the front wheel and tire width, probably don't have enough power to really need rear tires that wide and haven't re-tuned the suspension to regain more neutral handling.

Now there's certainly plenty of people with enough power to need those wide rears, but the rest still will often apply there.

 

So how much power would you say is needed?

It sounds like it doesn't effect the handling of the car?

 

You do not have stock fenders by any means...

My cobra r's fit with 245/45/18 tires with 24mm offset.. would rub on FULL LOCK at about 60mph on the autocross course...

 

Personally I always have way more problems with not enough rear grip then I do with not enough front grip (although this is partially due to the old suspension).

OTOH, in my case I'd rather have the widest possible non-staggered tires, with spacers on the rear and equal offset rims, so that I can still rotate my tires.

 

Basically if you're already using really sticky tires and are still having problems with wheel spin then more width is needed. This doesn't mean that when you dump the clutch at full throttle on the rev limiter that you get wheelspin, you can do that with just about anything, I mean having wheelspin in second or third when you floor it sort of thing.

It absolutely will have an effect on the handling. Wider rears will generally lead to more steady state understeer, but some people will mistake the ability to get power on oversteer as balanced handling and say that it's fine. With proper suspension tuning the negative effects can be minimized, but it's generally best to run as wide as you can up front to better match what's out back.

 

The problem is that a 255 / 40 / 17 is perfect on a 17" x 9.0" wheel.
The problem is that a 255 wide tire is next to impossible to fit up front on an FC.
You *can* run hippari stretch to make them fit up front...
235 or 225 wide on a 9.0" wide with like a +15 to +20 offset up front should fit under the stock fenders.


-Ted

 

Yea, but why do you *need* 17x9's in the first place? If you've got lots of power I understand completely, but there's guys with nearly stock NA's that run huge staggers, which is dumb. I have a hard enough time getting my ultra high performance 225/45/17's to let go.

 

Understeer on an FC?

I could still kick the rear end out with 235f and 245 BFG KDW2s on the rear, no problem. Even with my almost stock N/A.
I bought the 8's in front because of the spoke pattern. If you look at the pic, you can see that there's plenty of clearance for any kind of BBK I could want, unlike the 9's in the rear, with the flat-faced spokes.

Plus, these were the sized Rishie recommended for my FC, and I respect his opinion on FC wheel fitment, more than anyone else. He's RIM_GURUsan.

 

"Kicking" the rear out (power on oversteer) is fundamentally different from steady state understeer, when talking about chassis tuning. 2 different causes.

 

I had nowhere near enough power for "power on oversteer". It was all inertia, or feint oversteer.

 

Sounds like you're doing some variation of the "Scandanavian flick" that rally drivers do (drifters too, I imagine) to get the car to oversteer. Flick left, then turn right, so the rears break loose because the manoeuvre causes weight transfer to unweight the outside rear tire. Can be very effective in provoking oversteer where it wouldn't otherwise happen.

Still has nothing to do with steady state oversteer. Steady state cornering behaviour is what you'll see on a skidpad. Circle the skidpad going faster and faster, until you can't maintain the path any more. If the front end washes out - understeer, if the rear - oversteer. This describes the fundamental balance of the car. You can vary that balance with power, or with deliberate weight transfer changes (the "flick"), but those aren't suspension characteristics.

 

Yeah my N/A is about stock. I was just curious to see if they would fit or not, I'm probably going to go with 17x8s. Just not sure of the offset. Probably +35, but +25 is an option (5zigen FN01R-C)

 

Those are far from the stickiest tires out there. With a better 225 it'll probably give more grip. I'd be willing to bet that my 225/45/17 Bridgestone RE-070's have more grip. That's also only a 10mm difference, not like some people with something like 225's and 275's or something like that.

 

its a stock NA.. lets keep it realistic
i say go 17x8 +25 all around with 225/45/17
it will be close enough to flush without ramming your fenders, or being sunk in too far (gross)

 

Ok, well i plan to lower it in the future, so will this affect how much I can lower it?

 

It depends. If you want to use Tein or Tanabe lowering springs then go for the low side on offsets, but you'll be more likely to contact the fender in front. I don't think it'll be an issue with that combo unless you're running very little camber. If you've got enough for decent handling, you haven't lowered it too much, and are stiff enough to prevent excessive roll then you'll be fine. Adding in more steering angle will mean that you effectively have less room though.

Anything between a 35 and 25mm offset should work in front with 225/45/17's on 17x8's with stock fenders.

You really shouldn't be slamming it anyway, it does bad things to the geometry, it causes issues with scraping and so on. Keep it realistic (under 2", under 1" if you're not doing anything about the rear camber) and you'll be fine.

 

dont be scared to run wide up front! with a good set of wide front fenders or panspeed over fender flare replicas from corksport, you can run a non stagger 17x9 +15 setup with up to a 255 tire all around. the fenders are so cheap nowadays that I think its crazy so many FC owners are still running oem fenders and trying to deal with squeaking by some wide fitments up front.

non stagger 17x9 +15 setup with up to a 255 tire all around is a favorite time-attack setup in japan and lends to a well balanced handling FC, as long as youre not pounding out insane hp to the rear wheels, then you may want to bump it up to a 275 out back, on a 17x10 +35.

Natey, nice setup, car looks great!!!!!!!!!! WOWIE!