17x9 front 17x10 rear
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#10
if its right in the middle, its 0mm
if its closer to the outside face, its positive
if its closer to the inside face, its negative
amount is distance from middle to actual mounting surface
#11
+35 will NOT work, particularly on a lowered FD, without rolled fenders.
I had 8.5's on the front, +37, w/ 235/45/17, and it would've jacked up the fender lips if I hadn't rolled them. Also rubbed the liners at full lock, but that's normal on FD's. I also had 8" +38's, and THEY jacked up the fenders with both 235/45 and 245/40.
The rear might work with a small tire like 255/40, but then what's the point of 10's? You need more like +42 at least to run real tires.
I had 8.5's on the front, +37, w/ 235/45/17, and it would've jacked up the fender lips if I hadn't rolled them. Also rubbed the liners at full lock, but that's normal on FD's. I also had 8" +38's, and THEY jacked up the fenders with both 235/45 and 245/40.
The rear might work with a small tire like 255/40, but then what's the point of 10's? You need more like +42 at least to run real tires.
#12
#13
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Originally Posted by onefast3gen
I went with +41 front +44 rear
#14
I agree. I have 17x9 +45 with 255/40/17s. They have been great fitment overall but I somehow caught my lip for the first time ever last week. I was turning and going up a steepish driveway.
#15
^^^^
Ideally the higher offset would go up front, but if you're culling from what's available in a given wheel, those will work. Fikse's standard fitment, FWIW, is lower on front than rear, and besides, the width differences throw it all off anyway.
Ideally the higher offset would go up front, but if you're culling from what's available in a given wheel, those will work. Fikse's standard fitment, FWIW, is lower on front than rear, and besides, the width differences throw it all off anyway.
#16
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Yeah I guess so, haha. I only know my own wheel and assumed it was the same for all. I didn't know Fiske was set up that way, weird. I'd love to get a set of those wheels though, mmm mmm.
#17
offset = distance from the middle of the wheel to the mounting surface where it bolts to the hub
if its right in the middle, its 0mm
if its closer to the outside face, its positive
if its closer to the inside face, its negative
amount is distance from middle to actual mounting surface
if its right in the middle, its 0mm
if its closer to the outside face, its positive
if its closer to the inside face, its negative
amount is distance from middle to actual mounting surface
#18
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,619
Likes: 120
From: Colorado Springs, CO
#19
So, the FD uses 16x8 with a +50 offset. If you want the wheel to be more flush with the fenders, you use a lower offset of something like +40. If you have a widebody kit which extends out, you need to use an even lower offset like a +15.
Now, if you think about spacers, they actually work the opposite. Say you want to use a 10mm spacer on the stock rims. That doesn't make the new offset 50 + 10 = 60, as that would be pushing the wheel more into the center of the car and not what a spacer does. So it's the other way 50 - 10 = 40 since its pushing the wheel out towards the fender. So adding a 10mm spacer to the stock offset would make the wheel look like a +40 offset instead of the +50 without the 10mm spacer.
#20
Thanks mahjik ..lets see if i get this now.. the + offset brings the wheel/rim closer to the inside of the car... and - makes it more like more away from the car... i hope thats kinda right, i dont want to be wrong... if i am eh. im trying to learn..