Super AFC Safc-1 smoked my ecu.
#1
Safc-1 smoked my ecu.
Bought a used afc from a hoda guy. Went on line downloaded and printed the manual and pin out for the ecu. Wired it per specs except for the gray/throttle signal wire. I wired that into the signal wire between the fcd and pressure sensor, yellow wired on the r.b. fcd. Also tapped the blue wire into the 2H to read pressure clamp off voltage. Other than that wired it according to the manual. Went through the settings 4cy arrow up to the right. flapper 06 06. Started it up and it ran like total ****. Had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it alive. i keep going through the setting intialized it two or three times. Never got better.
So i removed the afc and taped the wires. Had to put the car on the charger and hold the gas down for 10 secs then it finally caught. Ran like crap for about a minute. Then idles out smooth. Reved up the car and it back fired like a 50 cal and shoot flames around 2500. Almost like the timing was gone at that rpm and reappeared at 2700 loaded with gas. Shoot timing with the gun to 5 degree atdc and it really bogged down. advanced it to about 10btdc and it sounded much smoother. But the back firing never went away.
Ended up swapping to another ecu and it ran perfect no backfiring, and set the timing to 5 atdc and it sounded smooth just like it used to. Car was runnig perfect before installing the afc. Cost me 120 for the afc and an ecu at 100 quater of the way to a stand alone. The only odd thing was even with car at idle or ko not running the air flow monitor setting showed 100% while the other monitor setting showed 0. That was the only wierd thing i didn't understand. Car is a 82 with a S-5 jspec swapped. rb fcd, stock n-374 ecu, misc modds, no emissions, cone filter on the afm, 3 inch full exhaust, running a n-370 afm, cleaned 550's and RC 750 hi imp in the secondaries, all the parts are less than 6 months old except the engine, and afm, walboro 255 and aeromotive fpr. If any of that matter.
Just wired up the power on the afc to my shop batter and still shows 100% airflow. Thanks for looking and give me your ideas on what i screwed up.
So i removed the afc and taped the wires. Had to put the car on the charger and hold the gas down for 10 secs then it finally caught. Ran like crap for about a minute. Then idles out smooth. Reved up the car and it back fired like a 50 cal and shoot flames around 2500. Almost like the timing was gone at that rpm and reappeared at 2700 loaded with gas. Shoot timing with the gun to 5 degree atdc and it really bogged down. advanced it to about 10btdc and it sounded much smoother. But the back firing never went away.
Ended up swapping to another ecu and it ran perfect no backfiring, and set the timing to 5 atdc and it sounded smooth just like it used to. Car was runnig perfect before installing the afc. Cost me 120 for the afc and an ecu at 100 quater of the way to a stand alone. The only odd thing was even with car at idle or ko not running the air flow monitor setting showed 100% while the other monitor setting showed 0. That was the only wierd thing i didn't understand. Car is a 82 with a S-5 jspec swapped. rb fcd, stock n-374 ecu, misc modds, no emissions, cone filter on the afm, 3 inch full exhaust, running a n-370 afm, cleaned 550's and RC 750 hi imp in the secondaries, all the parts are less than 6 months old except the engine, and afm, walboro 255 and aeromotive fpr. If any of that matter.
Just wired up the power on the afc to my shop batter and still shows 100% airflow. Thanks for looking and give me your ideas on what i screwed up.
#2
You may have the signal and source voltage wires for the AFM switched so that the signal wire is getting system voltage at all times. Higer voltage = more air flow seen by ECU (I am pretty sure I am right on that) which would cause a lean condition because typically vehicles run more lean at WOT than they do when at idle. On your AFM the middle wire is typically your signal wire (should measure about 4.8v key on engine off) and one of the other wires will be ground and the other will be source voltage. I am pretty sure I am right on this unless I got my notes wrong on that day of class.
#3
Unfortunately i didnt get them backwards, i tripple checked every thing. The wire you are talking about is 2B on my ecu green with black stripe, split it and tied white afc to the afm and yellow afc to the ecu side. Your right about the volts it specs at 4.0 ko engine off. Any idea on the air flow reading at 100%. That one really baffles me.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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#9
don't know if this will help at all
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/electrical/afc.html
and this one
http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/safc.htm
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/electrical/afc.html
and this one
http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/safc.htm
Last edited by rmriggin; 12-12-05 at 08:08 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by slpin
your afc turns on right
then the afc is fine
you messed up the wiring
then the afc is fine
you messed up the wiring
Also why when I power up the afc on my shop battery it says 100% on the monitoring window for airflow.?
Gray AFC tap into signal wire between boost sensor and FCD for true boost pressure.
White AFC Split wire 2B Green with Black stripe on my app. White wire goes to the afm side.
Yellow AFC Split wire 2B Green with Black stripe Yellow wire goes to to ecu side.
Green AFC Tap into 1G Blue with yellow stripe for rpm signal
Red AFC Tap into 1B Black with White stripe power to ecu from main relay Key on power on power supply.
Brown AFC Tap into 3C Black closer to the ecu. Dont break wire.
Black AFC Tap into 3C Black back one inch from Brown AFC wire furtherest away form ecu.
Pink AFC Cap and tape.
Orange AFC Cap and tape.
Blue AFC Cap and tape.
If I wired this wrong please let me know where, I would really like to get this AFC working.
Thanks
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