This thread is here specifically for kit install suggestions and such, if you currently have a kit and installed it and have some suggestions for either making life easier or parts that would make the overall package better please post it in here. If you DO NOT have experience with a kit please DO NOT post in here the post will be removed.

-S-

 

More clearance between the wastegate and crossmember would be nice (long runner manifold). It's very close and on some cars like mine it doesn't clear at all. I know that different motor mounts or old sagging mounts might make a difference in engine height you can't always account for but if you design it with a bit more clearance to start it shouldn't be an issue for anyone.

 

Been beating my head up on that one for awhile. The main reason for the current WG placement is heat. I wanted to keep it away from being trapped right between the DP and trans. When you say crossmember you are referring to the engine cradle correct? I have been debating making some more improvements to the manifold to solve that issue, as well as the filter issue that some people who aren't quite as fab savy will wont have to worry about. It will require a whole new manifold and DP being mocked up is the only thing holding me back from doing it immediately.

-S-

 

Got the GT3574 from you guys, everything is awesome and we'll see what this bad boy does come this saturday with a Kan tuning. Only gripe I have is the turbo sits too far up with the long runner. Been racking my brain to try and come up with something to fit a air filter in there. Don't want to screen it but it looks that way.

Sent you a PM too Sean, thanks.

 

Correct.

 

Overall I'm extremely happy with the performance, quality, and fit-and-finish of the kit, not to mention the customer service

Sean, the few minor suggestions of mine have been covered already via email.

Roto7FD, I'm running a K&N 'shorty' style air filter I got through Gotham, it's around 4-5 inches long. Alex will know the correct part, tell him it's the one I'm using.

 

on the 42R kit, the downpipe to turbo v-band touches the UIM. You could move it another inch or so towards the fender. Also, on the thermostat relocation housing, the coolant sensor bung would be better on the drivers side, instead of the passenger where it hits the compressor housing.

 

Keep them coming, I am taking all of this in and will be making appropriate changes.

-S-

 

also the bung on the downpipe doesnt allow a sensor to be threaded in, you have to loosen everything up in order to get it to fit, then tighten it back up.

 

I finally have my GT35R long runner motor running. I love it. Great response and power.

I don't know if there is a way you could make the front driver side manifold to turbo exhaust housing nut a little earier to reach. It's very difficult to get on and off due to the lack of clearance even for an experienced mechanic. Perhaps if you had a stud threaded into the exhaust housing and the nut on the other side of the manifold?

 

Good to hear!! The long runner with the T4 35R is a fantastic all around street setup. I think I know which stud your referring to. That is one of those things that is a pain and there isn't much you can do about it unfortunately.

-S-

 

The flange hits part of the motor mount. I can grind part of it off, but then Im not even sure the turbo will sit in there. Is it ok for me to grind part of the flange down to see if it will work. I don't want to cut on it and then have you not warranty it.

 

The GT35R-T4 recirc kit I am installing is having issues, I just sent Sean an email. I put everything on while the engine was on the stand and had a hell of a time with the oil and coolant hoses/fittings, dp fitment, etc.

The turbo is not clocked properly for the oil supply/drain so I had to take it loose, to put it together properly I had to leave one of the bolts out that hold the chra to the hotside. This would be avoided by an extended oil inlet fitting that moves the tubing fitting above the hotside, I had to omit the one bolt to have room to get the oil line on the male oil fitting. Extended water fittings would simplify install of coolant lines by a TON, it is near impossible to get them fully tight, I had to take the cold side housing off and then it was a bitch to get it back on and tight with the water fittings on the chra. The oil drain line (new braided line) was a tad too short and had to be pulled/stretched by tightening the the two bolt flange on the engine.

Now the dp. The dp is about 3/8" too short to reach the turbo flange. I could make everything fit on the engine stand by stretching the hell out of the flex joints but on the car it was impossible. On the stand with the mani fit to the motor I loosely fit the dp to the turbo and the wg to the mani , then put the turbo/dp on the mani and loosely put the two rear nuts on to hold the turbo on the mani, then had to rock the turbo/dp back to fit the dp recirc line to the wg, then tightened up the flanges on the wg, then tightened the nuts on the turbo to mani to pull the turbo down. This worked but put alot of preload on the dp flex joints, believe me I tried a lot of other sequences and I am an experienced wrencher when it comes to such things.

For improvements I suggest 1) longer fittings on chra oil inlet and water in/out to move the male connection outboard of the hot/cold housings so the female AN line fittings can be properly tightened, 2) slightly longer oil outlet line (fab tolerances need to be very very tight on this one hose), 3) clock the hotside prior to shipment, 4) revise the jigs on the dp or exhaust mani, one of them or both are way off, 5) 3" dp v-band clamp doesn't seem to be the right clamp for the v-band flanges as I had to use my high torque carpenter clamp to compress the v-band clamp over the dp/turbo v-band flange just to get the v-band clamp's bolt thru the female side of the v-band far enough to get the nut on it 6) suggested install sequences would help the inexperienced and experienced, would have been nice to know that the wg prevents motor install with turbo kit on the motor, this would have had me address the dp fitment prior to install of the motor (which I just did today) and saved me the yet to be experienced delay, after motor install, to get the dp fixed.

I've installed many turbo kits, some very experimental, and never experienced such a list of issues for what is considered a "kit". I can only guess I got an off kit given the few number of complaints on this forum.

Forgot to mention the mani had issues. The flanges were flat with one exception of a high spot at the membrane on the turbo flange, easily taken down with an air tool sanding disc. There were gross metal shards at the wg runner locations inside the mani runners, when the holes were cut they were not deburred. I ground these out as I was concerned that when they came loose they might damage the turbine wheel. The welds were beautiful on the outside, really nice on both the mani and dp.

 

The turbo's usually go out clocked and somewhat assembled, not always as some do sneak through, but I try and make sure they all go out that way.

Your DP was off mainly due to the turbine housing differences that I wasn't aware of, inconvenient yes, sucks, most definitely yes. But I'll make it right. I did mention also that chances were slim that you would get the kit in complete with the motor due to WG placement. The centre divider(TO4) being high is a odd one usually it sits lower and the whole flanged gets faced to match, weird. As for the other stuff, I did have a new guy making these starting this year, after having little issue after little issue start to pop up. I put my other guy back on it. So no more worries there.

I should have some install notes up here for reference when I get a chance, but in the mean time contact me, I'm pretty quick with emails on install questions as they get priority.

The fittings/lines are what the fittings/lines are. Some people have little issue with them some people want to pull out their hair. (This does not mean anyone is being judged or called out for having issues, I pull out my hair at times as well and I am more familiar than most with this stuff) I had longer fittings people complained, I made shorter fittings people complained. I had simple easy drains people complained. I make nicer braided ones, people complain. Point is they are what they are. I seem to have almost no issue installing the stuff here.(again this is not placing judgment on anyone, so please don't respond or take it like I am) What I do think is we've done enough here we know are way around it a bit more. Even still I hate the WG placement on some days and wanna change it.

The clamps, I have enclosed pics as I have had a few people say they were a bitch to put on. Some even insisted they got the wrong size. I explained to them that the flanges were machined to the clamp. They fit and fit tight, especially the first time. Why? So they have less chance of leaking. Once I explained how to install the clamp they agreed it wasn't much of a issue if any.

I would do this once out of the car first. So you have the room.

Pic one will show the clamp and the bolt being too short. What you need to do is hold the bolt in place(As per pic 2) this usually either gives enough bolt to start immediately or once you squeeze it with your hand it will. Tighten. Then loosen and the clamp will have stretched to fit without much if any effort at all. What can and does happen in the car is the there isn't much room, the DP is fighting you, the bolt has dropped down, and you can't seem to squeeze the clamp enough to get the bolt to poke through.(mainly because it has dropped down) This is because the clamps are made to fit so snugly.

Hope that helps some.

 

what filter do you recommend for the GT3574 kit with long runners?

 

We usually use a shorter cone filter, I believe Rich, goodfellas has a part number for one he found to work really well.

 

Check your PM

 

Hey guys. I started to mock up the 3574 in my FC and I'm curious how people are running their IC piping? If I run the compressor outlet towards the hood, the turbo is awfully close to the strut tower. If I run it down then I'll have to make an interesting IC pipe and somehow fit a filter on there

 

We ran it pointing downward, you will need to use a couple couplers and a 45* bend if memory serves.

 

I'll pull the lower cover off and take some pictures of the progress for my fellow FC owners.

 

Hmm no room to route the pipes down. I'll have to clock the housing toward the intake manifold. Any issues welding a 90 to the compressor outlet? Even then I will probably have to mod my thermostat housing to clear pipes. Unless I can sneak it down with a tight 90 welded to the outlet then come up and over the "frame" as there is no room around that radiator

Here's what I'm talking about

 

For the external dump, here is a picture of the downpipe mocked up in the car. How do you normally dump the wategate? Straight down? With the downpipe a bit then turn down?

 

A gradual turn down towards the ground will work fine, essentially following the curve of your frame rail in the above picture.

 

I'll try and find pics to this but you can route it down that what we have done here on a few cars.

~S~

 

I've run the kit over two years. I road race the car and I've run a few two hour races on it. On the initial mounting i had to leave one hotside bolt out to clear the oil drain line. I have had a number of issues with the coolant lines as the fit with the t$ 1.06 hotside is so tight. I've had a few minor coolant leaks from the fittings into the chra. The main problem is getting in to tighten the adapters. I've also slightly warped the flange and had a few exhaust gasket leaks because of that. (my fault, got it stupid hot with a bad partial throttle tune (who knew you'd need to run a race car at partial throttle under a long yellow )). I have a 2000 degree F EGT gauge and it was off the top. Toasted the turbo.

My suggestions:
Make a race option.
Upgrade the lines to braided or hardlines around the chra so you have better clearance. Ultimately I'd like to see the adapters on the coolant side go away (potential point of failure).
Use higher temp or shielded hose for the oil drain and coolant lines.
Provide a stainless shield for the tubo hotside and possibly the inside of the downpipe


I'd also like to know if there is a special method for getting the hotside off the turbo. I have the split rings holding the hotside on and after a few runs they will not come out period. I managed to get them off the toasted turbo using a 4lb mallet on the turbine.

Overall, I've beat the hell out of the kit and run down everything from turbo porshes to 2007 corvette Z06's to tube frame 300Z race cars. The setup has been very solid.

-Trent