OK. I had my BNR on the car for about 8 months. Took the turbo off because i was going to a scca event and i wanted the stocker back on for responce.

I NOticed the exhaust wheel was pretty white.


ON a turbo piston engines this is a sign of HIGH EGT's , right?


What could this mean? SHould i check my timing?
I have a wide band & i run 10:3:1 Afr's at 7-9 psi

 

Bump. Is this something i should be worried about?

 

With those AFRs your EGTs should be more than reasonable unless your timing is way too retarded.

It is probably the high exhaust backpressure causing more EGT transfer to the exhaust wheel.

Remember, the higher the pressure the more thermal transfer, ie pressure cooker.

Is it fine that way? Well, it isn't helping anything, but if the turbo isn't melty yet it probably won't cause the TURBO to fail, just much harder on the ENGINE.

 

thats way to rich for that boost level btw. Also are you running leaded gasoline becuase that will turn it white.

 

You would be safe in the high 11's AFR.

 

10.3? Wow.. you are really safe with that and must get terrible mileage. With a stockish car you're safe running 11.5-11.7.

 

GUys it only does 10.3 afr's when WOT. I use stock ecu stock 550 prim. and 720 seconds.

SO when i driving normally the afr's are as normal as a stock setup.

I use unleaded 87 oct. all daY.


Exhaust backpresure? I have a full 3" turbo back with a 2.5" resonator.

Thanks for the replies guys.

chris-

 

Exhaust backpressure= stock exhaust wheel and turbo housing having to spool up that big compressor wheel.

A larger turbo back will definitely help your spool up by having less post turbo pressure but won't help the high backpressure between the engine and turbo.

 

What if my stock turbo also has white TURBINE WHELS.

 

your running 87 octane on a stock ecu with an aftermarket turbo? (yes i know its a hybrid)

 

that means the engine was running....

 

yes i do. I only run 7-9 psi. Nothing wrong with 87 oct. when it is being used properly.

 

al injection?

 

10.3 at wide open throttle is still way to rich but that isnt gonna make your turbine wheel run white. Also your asking for it with 87 if you dont have some sort of A.I.

 

No AI.

10.3 is fine. YOu must be thinking piston. Plus i use 87. so 10.3 is perfect. GEEZ.

 

Not really stockish... cone filter, 3" catless exhaust, BNR3/4, 720cc secondaries.
walbro 255, fresh s5 from japan2LA on s4 chassi, FCD. E-fan, no a/c, abs delete.

I guess the engine is mediocre but the car is for autox,circuit.


Hoping my car weighs around 2550 or less. (sunroof is coming out next=)



OH yes i almost forgot. I also like runnign this rich cause on cool nights the car see's 11 psi on boost creep alone.

 

You've got one issue or many issues... Honestly before I get into the list of things it could be can you be sure that the wideband is placed in a proper spot and that it's calibrated. I honestly think if anything you're running lean. It makes no sense on earth why your turbo has a white turbine wheel with a 10.3 a/f... SOMETHINGS UP!

 

Also, is the white an actual coating that you can scrape off or is it just the typical white "stain?" If you don't get where I'm going with this you might not want to ask...

 

It is an innovative wideband with the innovative exhuast sniffer. It has been recently calibrated and compared to zetronics wideband to see how close they were.


The white cannot be scraped off. The turbine wheels is "stained" white.

 

how old is the sensor? i have never liked the innovate widebands, they are just unreliable.

honeslty man you entire setup is just asking for destruction. 87 octane, bnr(stg 3 or 4?) stock ecu, FCD, 3 inch exhaust!! the only thing helping you is the fact that you have 720's where the ecu thinks there are 550's.

and you say 87 is fine. yes 87 is fine if the car is tuned for 87, but your car's tune is wayyyyy off. i highly suggest getting a standalone and moving on from there. but thats my .02cents...

 

The wideband barely gets used. Maybe once a month. BUt it is almost 2 years old.

I dont understand why my whole setup is asking for it? It is as simple as it gets.

SO if i ran 91 oct u think my setup would be perfect? Thats makes no sence.
How could you say my tune is way off. The service manual never said must use high octane.
I DO want a haltech in the future, but it will be a while.

Could you xplain why my setup is dangerous? And does anyone else think my setup is wrong..

PS> dregg100. Your advice seems a little funny because innovative is one of the top widebands. Many tuners prefer the innovative. WHy say its not reliable..
My brother tunes cars and thats what he prefers

 

Ok, I don't want to say it again, but this setup seems awfully dangerous.

BNR 3/4? 550x720? Stock ecu? <--- doesn't that seem a little wrong to you? Have you read about all the people that put a intake and exhaust and a boost controller and blow their **** up?

I'm not going to say you shouldn't run it like that, but its your car do what ever you want, and if it works, congrats, if it blows don't say we didn't tell you so.

You have a WB 02, but that doesn't mean much w/o exhaust temp or knowing what your timing is set at. At the very least you should look into a RTEK 1.8 chip. Full standalone, or RTEK 2.1 would allow you to set timing and log/review whats going on. Stock ECU has more agressive timing tables that what you want when running more boost (or pushing more air into the engine).

High EGTs are normal for a rotary(up to 1600F if I'm not mistaken), but you may have some sort of afterburn going on with all that 87 your dumping in there. Just my guess, I'm no tuner, but I have been tuning my own car pretty successfully. Boost creep is bad, port your wastegate. 87 octane on a turbo rotary isn't a very good Idea either, **** a NA 2jz-GE requires 91. Knock, Pre-ignition, detonation is the killer of Apex seals.

Are you viewing your AFRs? How do you know what they are at WOT w/o logging them? Someone sitting next to you? The numbers usually change really fast?

I ran stock turbo w/ boost creep up to 15psi on RTEK1.5 (retards timing 1 degree per psi after 9 psi) for a while on 91 octane, and I'm guessing I almost blew it a few times seeing the boost around 15psi on cool nights. 3rd and 4th gear were usless because of creep. I knew it wasn't a good idea and was careful with it.

Best of luck!

 

NO it doesnt seem wrong. My setup is SOOO mild. I never run past 7 psi guys. My boost controller stays OFF. I baby my engine more than you guys could ever imagin.

It sees 9 psi on 3rd + gears because of boost creep.
On a cold night i saw 11 psi on the stock turbo. MY BNR has better boost consistancy at 7-8 psi on all gears.

Yes i have my brother riding along watching the Wideband. OR i usually set it on the steeering wheel were i can watch it. Easy when your using empty backroads.

I hate rteks. I have been saving for a haltech for sometime. SHouldnt be too long till i get it.

But, mean while, SHould i retard the timing on my engine? what should i set the trailing and leading at?

 

no i never said anything about running 91 would make your setup perfect, just better off.

you keep saying your setup is mild. do you not understand that a bigger comp wheel and housing=more air into the engine? you also have a 3inch exhaust. the car is not compensating for it since you are on a stock ecu.

as far as the innovate goes, everyone i have ever used works sometimes. basically like it has a mind of its own. and it has a low sample rate. you may want to get a new sensor just to be sure. rotary egt's like to eat sensors.

retard the timing on your engine? really man? the only way to do that on a stock ecu is by rotating the CAS. also meaning you cant adjust leading and trailing separately. this brings me to my next question. have you verified your timing is correct?

my statement about the tune being way off simply goes back to you are using a stock ecu. which is tuned for one thing, stock.

also, you should pay attention to what nick d states above. he makes some good points.

 

Actually I never even checked my timing after the swap.
I am currently looking at the FSM to make the proper timing adjustments.

Also i am using an s4 turbo ecu if you guys didnt know.
I would also like to add. Thats i have even ran 15 psi one time by accident because i used a nice new intake on the BNR.
I do compression checks every months. i have not dropped a single psi of compression since i had the motor. And it even went through that 15 psi mishap.
2 auto x weekends. And multiple drifting sessions. And compression is same as the first time i checked it.



Either way. How much should i retard the timing with the cas if i should at all? OR should i leave it at factory timing.