slo

iTrader: (1)

I just found out that the stock downpipes to turbo gasket is around 85 dollars. I'm not willing to pay that much, but the dam thing should be replaced so I plan to cut one out of:

a. Copper???

b. aluminum???

any special type???

how's 14 ga sound for thickness???

I'm leaning twords copper, I only through aluminum in there because I have seen exhaust gaskets made of aluminum (and its so much cheaper), though even at 8 dollars per pound for copper, I can still make about 4 gaskets for 10 dollars.

Rotary_Rocket_87

I don't know about the DP gasket but I used two sheets of approx. 12 ga. copper sandwiching some copper RTV sealant to seal the midpipe to the Y.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Umm the gasket shouldnt be that much money, try racing beat or mazdatrix....

slo

iTrader: (1)

um your talking out of your ***

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Use anealed copper. #1, buy a sheet of copper, approx 0.03" thick or slightly thicker. #2 Take a propane torch, heat it up till its almost red, let it slowley cool. It should be anealed (becomes soft). #3 Stamp, cut any gasket you want (intake, exhaust etc). If it cools too quick (by dumping it in water and or cool oil) it will HARDEN and be brittle. YOUR WELCOME

~Mike.....

slo

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, excellent post right to the point.

In your opinion, is copper suitable for an exhaust manifold gasket on a turbo rotary?

The gasket needs to be re-annealed every time it comes off correct?

I've always heard that with copper the rate of cooling is immaterial to the hardness of the metal. I've seen my grandfather anneal copper head gaskets (many years ago), he would heat it up cherry red and drop it into a bucket of water, probably because he didn't want to wait for it to cool.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

I went back and looked at my notes and googled it. Apparently (and if I'm wrong correct me if you KNOW). Quinching it in water (I preffere using oil cause it wont boil over) won't harm it and it will still anneal. It should soften, and if its not soft enough, repeat the process till your happy with it, then cut/punch your gasket of it. Its the heating that anneals it. I've used copper gaskets as header to block and manifold to turbo gaskets with NO problems what so ever and use them over and over. The gasket is sandwhiched and never sees super high heat. Don't believe me?? Take a piece of paper, wrap it around a copper or aluminum tube, then TORCH IT. The paper will survive no matter what heat you put to it so as the metal metrial you use to wrap it with does not melt.(heating steel, then quinching hardens it, I guess not copper?). A benifit and the main reason for making my own copper gaskets is port matching. I usually pin the two pieces together, match my gasket to one surface, transfer it over to the other surface via pin location, then match the port to the gasket. Not to mention they can be re-used over and over till there too thin or hard, then in some cases you can re-anneal them again (still free!!).

~Mike......

slo

iTrader: (1)

I believe you, hell they can be used as head gaskets.

Since I'm going for extreme low production, I will probably just cut them out in the plasma cutter including the bolt holes, port match them, finish drilling the holes then anneal them. Should be an easy 20 minute job.

When I finally do get BNR stg 3 twins I will make a full new set of copper gaskets for the twins.

Old Slow Coach

Here, see post #5 and #14 of this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/v-band-flange-gasket-467421/

slo

iTrader: (1)

I made one today out of ~13 ga copper that was free. I bout some SS the other day and grabbed a few small squares of copper which the metal supply place gave me free.

The coper was easy to cut with a plasma cutter using the old gasket as a template. Then I ported the gasket to match the downpipe and heated it cherry red. It got real nice and soft and sealed up real good.

rotaryB-2000

thank you mike..