Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

What to Do if want to run 20+ psi on rotary

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Old 06-12-03 | 08:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally posted by vosko
ajc13b ran like 30 psi on pump gas with zero timing ....

i would rather not risk damaging my very expensive engine
Ah, I ran 23psi....
Old 06-12-03 | 10:37 AM
  #27  
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1. Cooling both water (radiator) and air (intercooler)

2. Fuel (water injection wouldn't hurt

3. Dowl pin. (high boost causes flex)

4. Did I mention cooling?

These are just a few out of the big picture.
Old 06-12-03 | 11:03 AM
  #28  
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ARD,

Choose a different approach.
Try to set your goals based on application.
It'll lead to a horsepower/torque figure that is more well defined than a relative pressure figure.

To have a reliable 400rwhp car that weighs about 2700lbs is a nice and rare thing considering all the sports car and wannabe sports car drivers out in the USA.

With a power figure in mind, you can easily build the engine, fuel system, turbo, IC, ignition, and chassis. The execution and patience of tuning will be the roughest part.

In my experiences with my GT35/40, it starts to really pull power at around 15psi on a stock ported 13B-REW engine running conservative timing and fuel (10.8 A/F). I have run it to 20psi a few times and it felt good. In other words, the turbo is great at high boost, but mediocre at low boost.

If you spec out a turbo that is more efficient at lower boost, you may be happier with it, make the power you want, and repeat the power consistently and reliably.

If you feel more comfortable with 3mm apex seals, then go for it. However, 2mm seals may have better performance on the lower rpm range due to better sealing (debatable topic).

J
Old 06-12-03 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
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Everyone is always saying stuff like "dont build your system around water injection , it could fail and ......", I am fed up with totally unfounded , unproven statements like these , anyone with failed systems ??? , basically its a crock of **** !!!!.
I have been using AQUAMIST's systems for years and have never had any type of failure, if the system is set up properly it could be as bullet proof as anything else. The setup and install can be the weak point if not done properly , after I installed my system I used a soda bottle as a reservoir and , guess what ............it finished and I blew up my engine , my fault !!!!!!.
You build your system around fuel , guess what , fuel pumps die , injectors stick and jam filters become blocked ......so what should we do now ? .
PREVENTATIVE MAINTAINENCE , thats what !!.
Old 06-12-03 | 07:22 PM
  #30  
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Your logic escapes me.
Old 06-12-03 | 07:47 PM
  #31  
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Originally posted by AJC13B
Ah, I ran 23psi....
i was close sorta going off memory
Old 06-12-03 | 11:56 PM
  #32  
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Thanks for the insight AjAtx.

i was just thinking the same thing which is why i created a new thread to help find the right turbo for me. Still would like to have engine max out the turbos potential if possible. Not for roadrace just cause I'll take it to Grudge night here and there. lol.

Thanks, Rishie
Old 06-13-03 | 12:00 AM
  #33  
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From: lebanon
Water Injection
Old 06-13-03 | 12:30 AM
  #34  
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Rishie T666 is evil
Old 06-13-03 | 03:56 PM
  #35  
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hehe. lol. Dude I have to see what's up with sevenstock. I don't know what to do. I may have an opportunity to fly out to AUS and get some training with Microtech on microtech. But it's at the same time.

What would you guys suggest?? **** I don't know what to do.

Rishie
Old 06-13-03 | 08:00 PM
  #36  
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Whats stock PSI on both an S4 and S5?
Old 06-13-03 | 08:14 PM
  #37  
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Now Mr. BillB......... , didn't you mention somewhere in your post that "water injection wouldn't hurt " ? , so why the dumb *** comment "my logic escapes you " , if you dont have a meaningfull input to the topic at hand then DONT F....IN' post , just read and edify your self .
What you posted previously is totally useless , in that every one and their grand mother knows that those things you mentioned are obvious and basic in any system be it built to ron 5 , 10 or 30 psi boost , except the dowell pinning , which is unnecessary, by the way.
I read somewhere in this thread that a system shouldn't be built "around water injection" because of reliability issues , I merely expressed my opinion based on my personnel experience , I am not talking out of my *** (like some people). Making a strong statement like that (W.I.is unreliable) is wrong , there are many members including myself , who have been using these systems for years without any type of failure.
This topic has been discussed to death on this and other forums and it is generally known that to run high 20+ boost on pmp gas you will need race gas or W.I . .I merely pointed out that to those who believe that WI is a band aid and "a system shouldnt be "built around it " because of failure and malfunction , the use of over fueling for coolling the charge to hold off detonation can also be concidered unreliable because as I have seen , **** happens to your fuel system too , ask turbostreetfighter who gave up when an injector failed on the dyno and caused his engine to blow , so seeing that you can be fucked with or without the WI , maybe we should all take off our turbos and go NA ?.
If someone decides to go with the high priced high octane fuel , pull out almost all their timing and run ratios of 10:1 and figure that this is better than WI then so be it , just dont make unfair and untrue comments about the other choice 'cause some less experienced person mighat actually believe you and find themselves in trouble .
If my logic excapes you it may be because yours is totally flawed or non existant .

PEACE !!
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