Water to Air intercooler for street/drift use
#51
Haha, it works very well...I haven't had issues with it yet.
The thread that goes into the center of the pump is the one that sucks and the one sticking out the side is the one that pushes. I actually mounted it on its side so the suction one is pointing sideways and the pushing one is pointing up. I don't have any pics right now but I will see if I can get some and post them. Just make sure and place the pump post heat exchanger, no reason to shorten its life by making it pump warm/hot water as opposed to cool water.
Chris
The thread that goes into the center of the pump is the one that sucks and the one sticking out the side is the one that pushes. I actually mounted it on its side so the suction one is pointing sideways and the pushing one is pointing up. I don't have any pics right now but I will see if I can get some and post them. Just make sure and place the pump post heat exchanger, no reason to shorten its life by making it pump warm/hot water as opposed to cool water.
Chris
So, is this how you have yours plumbed?
#52
#54
#57
I painted all the stuff myself with duplicolor engine paint (Aluminum) and then sprayed engine clear all over everything. It worked out pretty good and the clear makes it easy to wipe off clean as opposed to just the paint which rubs off with time...it also gave it a very glossy finish like it was done by a body shop.
Chris
#58
oh..hey man...sorry, I didn't see this.
I painted all the stuff myself with duplicolor engine paint (Aluminum) and then sprayed engine clear all over everything. It worked out pretty good and the clear makes it easy to wipe off clean as opposed to just the paint which rubs off with time...it also gave it a very glossy finish like it was done by a body shop.
Chris
I painted all the stuff myself with duplicolor engine paint (Aluminum) and then sprayed engine clear all over everything. It worked out pretty good and the clear makes it easy to wipe off clean as opposed to just the paint which rubs off with time...it also gave it a very glossy finish like it was done by a body shop.
Chris
#59
so let me get this straight..
It is completely possible to use a A/W intercooler on the street as long as i:
Have a water pump flowing 500gph or more.
have a suitable sized heat exchanger
high speed fans on the heat exchanger.
how big of a heat exchanger do you need to support around 1000 or so hp? will a 500gph pump be enough to support that as well?
It is completely possible to use a A/W intercooler on the street as long as i:
Have a water pump flowing 500gph or more.
have a suitable sized heat exchanger
high speed fans on the heat exchanger.
how big of a heat exchanger do you need to support around 1000 or so hp? will a 500gph pump be enough to support that as well?
#60
4th string e-armchair QB
iTrader: (11)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
500 gph isn't necessary, it's just what's offered in the kit because it's cheaper. The more expensive pump upgrade flows less (360 gph), but is more reliable.
You just need to have a heat exchanger/fan large enough to maintain low temperatures in the conditions you will be driving in. It's no different than the cooling system in any vehicle.
And on another note, guys running 2000+HP drag cars are using this kind of setup like VWH stated in the 10.5 class, so yeah it should be good for your needs. If your temps get too high, you just need to upgrade the heat exchanger, and use a reservoir to increase your water capacity and bring temps down. Worst case scenario, run an aluminum rad as an exchanger.
You just need to have a heat exchanger/fan large enough to maintain low temperatures in the conditions you will be driving in. It's no different than the cooling system in any vehicle.
And on another note, guys running 2000+HP drag cars are using this kind of setup like VWH stated in the 10.5 class, so yeah it should be good for your needs. If your temps get too high, you just need to upgrade the heat exchanger, and use a reservoir to increase your water capacity and bring temps down. Worst case scenario, run an aluminum rad as an exchanger.
#61
500 gph isn't necessary, it's just what's offered in the kit because it's cheaper. The more expensive pump upgrade flows less (360 gph), but is more reliable.
You just need to have a heat exchanger/fan large enough to maintain low temperatures in the conditions you will be driving in. It's no different than the cooling system in any vehicle.
And on another note, guys running 2000+HP drag cars are using this kind of setup like VWH stated in the 10.5 class, so yeah it should be good for your needs. If your temps get too high, you just need to upgrade the heat exchanger, and use a reservoir to increase your water capacity and bring temps down. Worst case scenario, run an aluminum rad as an exchanger.
You just need to have a heat exchanger/fan large enough to maintain low temperatures in the conditions you will be driving in. It's no different than the cooling system in any vehicle.
And on another note, guys running 2000+HP drag cars are using this kind of setup like VWH stated in the 10.5 class, so yeah it should be good for your needs. If your temps get too high, you just need to upgrade the heat exchanger, and use a reservoir to increase your water capacity and bring temps down. Worst case scenario, run an aluminum rad as an exchanger.
ok, thats good.
The idea of having such quick boost response is undeniably irresistible, so reading that it is possible to use a a/w intercooler is just fantastic.
If i used a massive enough heat exchanger, do you think its possible to get consistent lower-than-ambient air temperatures? even while at 25 lbs of boost?
#62
4th string e-armchair QB
iTrader: (11)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
boost response generally doesn't go hand-in-hand with a 75mm turbo bud! Sounds like you're trying to have your cake and eat it too.
Ambient temperature is exterior air. Your heat exchanger cools the water down by means of ambient air. It is physically impossible to use ambient air to cool something to lower-than-ambient temperatures.
The only way you'd do that is if you used a reservoir with ice in it, and that wouldn't last more than 15-20 mins of driving. Or alcohol.
Ambient temperature is exterior air. Your heat exchanger cools the water down by means of ambient air. It is physically impossible to use ambient air to cool something to lower-than-ambient temperatures.
The only way you'd do that is if you used a reservoir with ice in it, and that wouldn't last more than 15-20 mins of driving. Or alcohol.
#63
Lower than ambient will be impossible without filling your reservoir with ice. Ultimately, heat is being exchanged with ambient air, so getting lower than that isn't physically possible.
EDIT: What ^ he said.
EDIT: What ^ he said.
#66
so let me get this straight..
It is completely possible to use a A/W intercooler on the street as long as i:
Have a water pump flowing 500gph or more.
have a suitable sized heat exchanger
high speed fans on the heat exchanger.
how big of a heat exchanger do you need to support around 1000 or so hp? will a 500gph pump be enough to support that as well?
It is completely possible to use a A/W intercooler on the street as long as i:
Have a water pump flowing 500gph or more.
have a suitable sized heat exchanger
high speed fans on the heat exchanger.
how big of a heat exchanger do you need to support around 1000 or so hp? will a 500gph pump be enough to support that as well?
They have a few packages per HP level. There is one for over 1200hp and one from 600-1200 as well as one for less than 600. I have the one for 600-1200...and you can pick and choose your components to match your install from the options they offer on each kit.
Chris
#67
500 gph isn't necessary, it's just what's offered in the kit because it's cheaper. The more expensive pump upgrade flows less (360 gph), but is more reliable.
You just need to have a heat exchanger/fan large enough to maintain low temperatures in the conditions you will be driving in. It's no different than the cooling system in any vehicle.
And on another note, guys running 2000+HP drag cars are using this kind of setup like VWH stated in the 10.5 class, so yeah it should be good for your needs. If your temps get too high, you just need to upgrade the heat exchanger, and use a reservoir to increase your water capacity and bring temps down. Worst case scenario, run an aluminum rad as an exchanger.
You just need to have a heat exchanger/fan large enough to maintain low temperatures in the conditions you will be driving in. It's no different than the cooling system in any vehicle.
And on another note, guys running 2000+HP drag cars are using this kind of setup like VWH stated in the 10.5 class, so yeah it should be good for your needs. If your temps get too high, you just need to upgrade the heat exchanger, and use a reservoir to increase your water capacity and bring temps down. Worst case scenario, run an aluminum rad as an exchanger.
look in the passenger compartment, took the roof right off
in car video http://video.streetlegaltv.com/video/7127
#69
#70
I've seen that done before. I know someone who rerouted their A/C to chill the air about to hit the IC. It worked pretty well actually.
I don't think it's worth it to keep all that crap around and have no A/C, but it was a fun project.
I don't think it's worth it to keep all that crap around and have no A/C, but it was a fun project.
#71
Plus, I'm not sure how the track would feel about you running the AC in the staging lanes
#74
Anyhow, Check this out : http://www.chiseledperformance.net/watertanks.htm
I'm running one of these in my street car. The pump is inside and for the price you can not beat it. I also run a PT1001 Intercooler.
What I need to do is get an Heat extractor for my setup. Otherwise, everything is kosher.
I'm running one of these in my street car. The pump is inside and for the price you can not beat it. I also run a PT1001 Intercooler.
What I need to do is get an Heat extractor for my setup. Otherwise, everything is kosher.
#75