i want to build 400whp turbo kit, buying parts separately and putting them all together. I am already pushing 290whp with stock turbines with exhaust,downpipe,midpipe,power fc, walbro pump,intake. etc... Looking to buy a
T04 turbo. Should i buy a hks cast iron manifold or a OBX stainless steel manifold (cheaper but stainless steel lower temps)?


What injectors should i use? I am not porting the engine(not yet, waiting for rebuild) Does this limit my goal of 400whp? Do i need to upgrade ignition to HKS twin ignition? What else am i misssing?

Any help?

Power corrupts........and i wanted to be corrupted

 

I'd recommend you spend a lot of time in the single turbo archives researching

a GT35R will get you to your goal on a stock port engine, most people run 1680cc top feed injectors, and the HK$ twin power is a pretty good idea at that power level in my opinion.

 

thanks for the input..........having hard time finding this specific project in the archives. so any fresh ideas are welcome

 

i like the stainless mani, obx is decent but i would find a welder that can brace it for you to make sure its strong, then wrap it with headder wrap to help with heat.

your stock 550 with 1600 secondary should be more then you should need, you might want to run the jumper mod for power to the fuel pump and take it form there to see if you needs 2 pumps.

For sure upgrade to the HKS twin power, other then that all you should need is a tune...
you could also do an EGT and Wideband if you dont have one already.

 

how about the turbos.. a gt35r, gt40r, or a t04? Does a 44mm wastegate works?

 

What kind of lag is acceptable for you? When do you want full boost by, and what will be 'full' boost for you? What are you using the car for?

 

If you are looking to do it on the cheap, a T04S (60-1) is a capable turbo that you can buy for $800 or so new that will spool quickly enough. HKS makes cast iron manifolds for FD's that are proven and can be had for $350 or so new. Get a 44+ mm wastegate and you are good to go (I have a 50mm). Get a local hydraulic shop to make you some lines for the oil drain and oil feed. Himniracing has good prices on downpipes in several sizes or a local exhaust shop may beat them (diesel shops seem to always have large pipe to do the job). You can be out less than $2,000 and have a good, proven 400 horsepower capable single turbo setup.

Reading in the archives is a good idea if you want to look into several different options available.

Josh

 

the car is mainly used for weekend use of street and maybe some drag. I am looking to run 20psi on full track boost and maybe 15-16psi on the street.

 

Not to thread jack but I'm thinking similarly on an FC build. Going with a 35R.

Why would/does it seem many prefer the 40 over the 35? Having read up on this, it would seem the 40 is less restrictive (less backpressure/heat) and greater potential for overall output but isn't there a significant trade off in spool? Would seem the 35 spools pretty early (good street/track car) and flows pretty well all around and is capable of making pretty big power efficiently (still very efficient @ 20+psi).

My making sense? My goals would be 400-500whp as well.


Thanks,
Eric

 

wouldnt the gt35r spool quicker than the 60-1 witht he same a/r ratios??

 

A/r ratios are not the same, the 35R uses a much smaller turbine than the standard P trim found on most "60-1s". See pic below..

 

You will also need a 3 bar map sensor since you are planning to go over 16lbs.

 

so the gt35r will spool faster than a 60-1 would regardless right? has anyone seen a gt35 spool full boost below 3500rpm on a street ported 13brew?

 

I have, but you gotta remember just because its at full boost at a low rpm doesn't mean its making much torque. A Good 60-1 setup should be at 1 bar by 3500rpms also.

 

so are there much differance in a 60-1 vs a gt35r as apposed to spool up? if i can make 14.7psi by 3500 with a 60-1 and be able to make all the power id ever need why would i want to go gt35r? just save the money and put the cash elsewhere where it is needed. right?

or given the same conditions the 35r will out spool the 60-1?

 

I ran both a 60-1 and a 35r over the past 2 years. In all honesty you wont notice the difference in spool, at least I didnt.

 

then honestly why not just run the 60-1? its cheaper to rebuild, and can make more power? plus there cheaper to buy.

 

So would one be better served by running say the GT40R and or a T04Z being they should be less restrictive with larger hot side turbines?

Sounds like the differnce in spool for either setup would be minimal as compared to the 35R even with the T4 .82 AR? I'll assume a nice T04Z should be making full boost in the low'ish 4k range with plenty of top end potential and room to grow into the 6-700whp range provided proper support....

What are guys seeing for rpm/full boost on a 40R/T04 setup?

 

Thats my personal opinion yes. I've had success with the Z over the 40R.

 

Great info! Much appreciated.

T04Z just seems like a great option. Lots of options as well.

How big? 1.15 AR work or slightly smaller?

 

I never run below a 1.15 on that size of a compressor. A customer just called me earlier this morning and said he gets 1 bar by 4000rpms on his To4Z setup( 1.15 P trim), 4th gear of course.

 

Any gains going to the 1.32 or larger (assuming increase in absolute output)? It sounds like the 1.15 is the way to go for a street/track car though. Plenty of breathing even at high rpm and should be efficient enough at my target 1-1.3bar usage. This will be on a BP 13B REW running water/meth injection as a supplement.


My feeling is 1bar by 4k is absolutely useable. Targeting 440'iish whp @ 1bar with this setup.

 

Oh if you have a BP I would move to the 1.32. Don't forgot about the 4" exhaust.

 

I have a non-obx manifold that just needs a wastegate flange welded on, its an old t4 manifold i ran for a while with a diff wastegate setup, and needed the flange for something else


pics here http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...l/649ca1ac.jpg


its the one on the right, just no longer has the wg flange, runners are still there , its cut after they merge, no cracks etc etc, pm me if your intreasted, i dont need it anymore

-Jacob

 

could ya weld a vband flange on it?