If possible, could someone (preferably someone who's DONE one) gimme SOME kind of a list/ idea as to what's needed to fully do a twin- to single-turbo conversion on a 93?

Basically, I know that I'll need to source the following:

Turbo - Stage 3 .63 Turbine housing 50t compressor; T3 Flange; 3-bolt 3" inlet; 360' TRUST Kit (12 ramps instead of 6) - for responsive streetability;

Manifold;
Downpipe;
External Wastegate - Tial 38mm (?)
Y-down-pipe elimination -
etc...

Can anyone give me a list and, if possible, an idea of cost(s)?

The reason that it's going single is that the turbo(s) is/ are shot and leaking oil from the center cartridges. The previous owner let it sit and the seals went on a one-way to poop-ville. *shakesfist*

Anyone that can help me would be the AWESOME-IST *EVAR!*

 

forget the turbo you have mentioned for a start.....way way to small!!

 

^^ yeah.

Get yourself a GT35R with a T3, 1.06 hotside and a short manifold. That's what I got and it spools real quick... Actually my mechanic commented that it's one of the fastest spooling cars that he's ever done.

off the top of my head and assuming you have no mods:

turbo, exhaust manifold, block off plates, wastegate (I have V44 tial), down pipe, midpipe (recomend resonated), exhaust, intake filter, IC and it's routing pipe(make sure it's big enough as I had to ditch my PFS SMIC), BOV, injectors (i have 550's and bored out secondaries to 1300's), tunable ECU, wideband, strongly recoment EGT though, and a boost controller. Oh yeah a tune!

Items that are a really good idea but not necessary are clutch, AI and an HKS twin power. Note the twin power depends on your boost level, fuel, spark so you may never need it. Clutch on power of course, AI not necessary below 15 psi but strongly recommended.

I think that's all.

Price? dude you got a list now go pricing. I'll help you for injectors since they are tough: I sent mine to RC engineering. Serviced my primaries and bored out my secondaries for total price $440 IIRC.


Edit- you don't need the Y pipe elimination per say as your turbo and new IC piping take care of that. Oh and check out this link crispy did an excellent job on documentation:

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/

 

Awesome! That's a good start...

If I were building this car for ME, the list would be WAY more encompassing... But it isn't. The woman wants it, as her daily, so I just wanna go for something responsive and not higher in the HP-range than the approximate stock amount.

Even if hers equates to the 350-380 range, it's still a FAR cry from my old one (like somewhere in the neighborhood of 450hp less).

BTW: That turbo is coming from Evergreen Turbo (of Turbonetics lore), built specifically for this application. The fuel system's got a healthy upgrades of pump, primaries and secondaries and it's got a 4.5" core on the FMIC, coated hard-pipes and SSQV-II BOV. NTM the JDM chin, tail and skirts in CF... Also, new-Gen RX8 wheels, until she decides on her wheels.

Other than that, nothing major.... Like I said, it's for the woman, not me.... I'm about nostril-deep in building a TT 1963 Fairlane500 and an 11" B16-T Civic... So I'm already a bit in.

The quick and easy is just to convert it to single and go from there... About 400mi on the new build (3mil seals are breaking in, nicely) and didn't have the opportunity to do the conversion until recently.

All I need, left, is the 'single' manifold and, uhm... Yeah.

I'm willing to trade my stock twin-turbo bits for the stock single, but I gotta find one.

 

stock single? there never was a stock single on FD's
is that the gt3071 turbo? Sounds like it's that size, if so that turbo is a pea shooter, flows less than the stock twins, no way you'll hit 380, you'll have a hard enough time seeing 350, it's only a tad bigger than the stock FC turbo.

 

Ah. So spending the 180 on the Megan's manif is the way I'll go...

Point noted about the Turbo. An upgrade it is; will let him know tomm.

Anything else that'll be needed to convert?

 

Dont buy a megan manifold for $180. Dont buy any manifold for $180.

If your gonna do it, do it right the first time and use QUALITY parts.

 

Nah....that's the OLD page.

Go here: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/gt35rpage1.htm

Also consider this: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdturboimprove.htm

HTH,
Crispy

 

if you can get someone to do a custom mainfold for you then go ahead, cheaper and it will be custom for the turbo so it will help the turbo flow better

 

I wouldn't buy ANYTHING megan for an FD, or period, do it once, spend the money once, and get good parts the first time around. check rx7store for some decent deals on single turbo kits

 

While the responses are mostly appreciated, I love this went from me asking a simple question to something else...

The only reason I'm looking small (and cheap-er) that I did was because I'm not building this wobbler for me... Ergo less HP. The turbo was in question because I'm not strapping a damned SPL on a rotary, again. If it were for me, then there wouldn't've been any inquiry in to this.

She doesn't drive, like I do so I don't WANT this thing to lay rubber, too quick (think safety, guys, not power), but at the same time, you guys've made a pretty valid point about the compressor map (efficiency of the original turbo) vs. the stockers.

I've already sourced the actual turbo (GT35, per Montego's response), but now I'll look into the 'Triple-R' kit. LOL... I'll just hot-glue the EBC ***** so she can't crank up the boost.

'darkphantom' has a great idea about the custom manifold... I guess that'll depend on how good (bad?) the one from the kit is. Anyone have a line on that?

'Crispy' : Awesome links. I'll hafta look up a price for that kit. Any aid, there?

The one thing I *AM* going to drop alot on is going to be suspension and breaks. I used to run SCCA (Solo2) and so I think she'd need to be able to handle and STOP, more importantly then achieve flight. RE Amemiya DG5 suspension (though the Bridgestone Pro Comp is about a quarter of the cost) is on the list. (JIC anyone remembers my old FC: 200 bux car... Almost 3k in clutch and suspension, a week later... NTM the bank that the 'Bathy' ate.)

Yeah.... Not tryin' to do THAT again.

Once, again, guys: Thanks for all of the help, thus far. Hopefully I can solidify my list and get this crap FINISHED!!

(Once I pin down the list, in it's entirety, I'll post it, for review.)

Thanks!

*** Just off the telly with Evergreen. While they agreed that a 50t may not be enough in the map range - and we'd talked about a 60:1 , instead, they said that the turbo that we'd spec'd would be responsive as hell, and since it's a fun, daily, that it should be fine (as well *** laughed that the GT35R was a pretty big turbo and MIGHT be counter-productive for the ' chick's daily '. Since I've used them before, I'm fairly inclined to agree, since I don't want it having a torque-spike at 1/2 - 3.4 throttle... In traffic. I want the response to come in, pretty low and with the .63 it will, but at least eh 60:1 will pull the end-number(s) up, a little from the 50t. Any opinions? ***

 

search for howard coleman's thread on turbo sizing, a gt35 is NOT a big turbo by rx7 standards. Just cuz it says 1.3 liters doesn't mean it behaves like one.

 

this one
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/turbo-comparison-includes-new-2023-garrett-gbc-bw-sx-r-turbos-post-one-869614/
and this one is helpful too
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...12#post9946112

 

if you read that fist link, a 60-1 is still smaller than the OEM FD turbos, and therefore flow less

 

Awesome post! I like how I'm not the only geek that would sit around and do some free-flow math, just to sate some sick obsession.


The 60-1 is only the measurement of the one side.... That chart is assuming that bothe the turbine and compressors are of the stock spec (according to the chart).

This line is quite important, " [H]ot area V cold area is especially valuable w the rotary. the rotary places a premium on large hot V cold wheel relationships. you want something approaching 1 to 1 areawise, " when spec'ing a turbo... The A/R is a major factor in the equation, not just the turbine, or compressor.

That number not only agrees with the quoted sentence, but also give an indication as to how laggy/ punchy it will be.

My old FC got a turbo with a .92 A/R on it. According to that chart, my turbo would've been JUST better than the T51R.... And it was was a 'little' T4. The 60:1 is only one side of the equation.... You'd look at the entire setup and then figure up how responsive it will be.

Awesome resource, but like a compressor map, itself, people will need to interpret the data.... Correctly, as it is.

 

If you want some more info on the GT35R I strongly suggest you look here:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fel...oselection.htm
Significant research was done with my friend Gene before I chose the 35R and it is an excellent "fit" for the rotary.

And if you are concerned with a torque spike you are mistaken. Torque curve is flat and broad. Dyno plots at multiple boost levesl to prove it (middle page):
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fde...doverview4.htm

Oh and if you are looking for a GT35R kit....PM me.
Regards,
Crispy

 

Gigetty!