black93RX7

The car was running between 12.4 and 12.9 psi boost

first run: 347.9 rwhp @7300 rpm
251.7 torque @7200 rpm

Second: 322.8 rwhp @6900 rpm
245.7 torque @6900 rpm

third: 340.6 rwhp @7400
248.2 torque @6900 rpm

engine: 3mm seals, dowell pinned, street ported

fuel system: 550 cc primary, 1600cc secondary injectors, supra fuel pump, sx fuel pressure regulator,

Exhaust: dp, resonated mp, RB dual tip,

cooling: custom 4 core rad, custom IC

EMS: Microtec LT-8

Greddy E01 boost controller

FJO wide band

After the three runs loked under the car and there was a large puddle of oil under it. Looked like it was being forced out from the dip stick hole.

Could inadaquate crank case ventilation be the case of the oil leak? Before the last run the oil filler cap was loosened to release some of the pressure and oil shot all over the greddy elbow during the last run.

going to go wash down the car and look for oil leaks right now.

These numbers are low compared to other T-78 dyno sheets I have seen

I was told the oil could be from blow by but the only way it could be from blow by is if a side seal was stuck aND IF A SIDE SEAL WAS STUCK THE CAR WOULD NOT REV UP LIKE IT DID.

So I don;t know what to think. All i do know is the car is not performing like it should for the mods that are in it.

A/F 's were good through out ranging from 10.5 - 11.6
under boost they were pretty much stable between 11.3 -11.5

I was also told conservative timing may be the reason for the low numbers. Right now I think timing is set around 23 or 24 degrees.

What do you guys think? Any help is appeciated

Thanks
Erik

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

Depending on who did the street port. The seal could have been lost due to size of port. Who ported your motor this has happened to me in the past

black93RX7

If the seal was lost would the motor still rev up to 7500 rpm with no problem? I was told it wouldn't.
Thanks

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it will just be alot richer, because of the unburnt fuel thats not being compressed in that cycle but it can still rev, just wont idle as well and a compression test will show low compression. IF the side seal is gone then the comression of the motor is escaping past the oil control ring. Its not meant to hold back the pressure in the cumbustion chamber so the crankcase gets pressurized by cumbustion pressure and voila Oil out the Dip stick.

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

Again who Built your motor?

black93RX7

I am still talking to the builder about the problems and would prefer not to mention anything right now. What your saying makes alot of sense, and the car is running rich @ idle its between 11.4 and 12.3 usually.

black93RX7

I did a compression test yesturday and it showed 60 psi in each rotor, I am leaving now to check for oil leaks and do another compression test, yesturday I did not open the throttle when we tested so that is why I am doing it again.

I was told "cranking compression is not a function of how well an engine seals, compression under fire is what matters" What do you think of this statement?

kabooski

you probly cracked the rear plate

Poweraxel

how did you get boost below 1 bar/14.7psi? A T78 kit with full exhaust with the stock spring is 1bar....??

Sl0w7

**** i put down more than that at the SAME pressure on stock twins!!!
-Keith

Jason

iTrader: (5)

The spring with the T-78 wastegate is a 10lb spring.

Jason

RETed

Something stinks unless your comression gauge is faulty...

There can't be too many rotary shops in Winnepeg?


-Ted

black93RX7

Another compression test and the same results. This time with with the throttle open the car had 65 psi and 60 psi.

When ever I go WOT the car pisses oil , but I can't find from where. It may be from the line under the oil filter. It definetly is coming from the top driver side of the engine. Its not from the dip stick hole like I thought earlier.

Also I put in new leading plugs before I dynoed this morning and when I puller them after one has a nice brown burn on it the other was black and looked to be wet with oil.

So I am thinking a couple of things:
1) bad spark on the one plug
2) the one rotor is getting oil blow by

Again what do you guys think of this statement?

I was told "cranking compression is not a function of how well an engine seals, compression under fire is what matters"

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

I PM'd you. Where you from?

black93RX7

What impact would advancing the timing from say 23 degrees to 27 degrees have on rwh

black93RX7

pm'd you back

IGY

You are running 23 degrees of timing at 12psi? That is about 5 degrees more than on the edge at that boost with your setup and 10 degrees more than what most people run. You should hope that the oil is a seperate problem(o rings on the filter pedestal) and not a cracked rear plate. If you lost a side seal, as soon as you hit boost you would have a crazy smoke screen out your exhaust(saw a motor where someone left out a side seal).

black93RX7

Last night I was on the hwy with a couple friends that had a CBR 600 and a GSX-R 600 and they said when I took off they saw alot of black smoke come out my exhaust. I am waiting for a call back to ask them exacly how much smoke they saw.

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

I will follow the thread best i can but PM me with any new info and I will help ya the best i can. PM'd ya back with some helpful info

black93RX7

Thanks for all the info, The car still pulls okay. It gets up to 200 km pretty fast, I don't have anything to compare it too except my 99 GSX-R 600. But with this set up I should be putting down more power.

However The car was dynoed on an MD-1750 if that makes any difference

Air fuels are stable under boost 11.3- 11.6

The oil leak issue I am still unsure of but my greddy fuel pressure guage stopped working again, is it possible the oil is leaking from the sending unit, which is under the oil filter (the area where it looks like the oil is coming from)

The plugs burning different in each rotor, I am not sure what to think about that

As for the timing IGY stated it might be way off

IGY, so your saying @ 12 psi my timing should be between 13 and 18?

I don't have much experience with this so you will have to excuse my ignorance about what the timing should be at. The tuner said what I had was really conservative and there is alot of rwhp to be gained just by adjusting the timing.

I am also running pre-mix.

DyNaMiTe KiD

shouldnt the car be at 14.0 at idle or even 14.7

black93RX7

Yes, but the tuner had trouble leaning the car out at idle

Beast From The East

Rotaries don't idle well at stoich - best idle is usually between high 12's to 13.5 depending upon port and timing. Your idle will bounce and hunt if you try to get it to 14.7 - also some guys have their air pumps still, and it's not uncommon to have the air pump push extra air at idle and give you false readings (depending on where you put your wb02). You should tune your n/a area with your air pump off (disconnect the electrical connector) to get the 'right' readings. It doesn't matter at WOT or boost because the air pump cuts off and doesn't interfere with actual readings.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

The dyno you were on is a Mustang dyno and if it had loading turned on then it would be reading about 15% lower than a dynojet. So your 347 run on a dynojet would be around 399HP. That is alot closer to what the car should be making.

Jason

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

your timing is way to aggressive. at around 12 psi you should be running not much more than 15 degrees. where oh where did you come up w that ignition map?

igy is right on the money.

you need to consult someone who knows what he is doing. your tuner telling you the ignition is conservative may be relating it to a piston motor.

howard coleman