even the $1500 hks stainless manifold will crack if it's abused.

as i understand, it's basically a copy of a knightsports or feed manifold (i could be wrong on that part). i know you wanna sell your a-spec stuff, but since you've got great products, why don't you let them speak for themselves?

i've heard sooooooo many people talk about them cracking, but i've never seen it. post up if you got pics.

 

that pic of the broken one looks like the flange was re-welded. the ssautochrome welds don't look like that--not the one's i've seen anyway.

i bet that was a person who "heard" they crack and decided to weld it himself. noob

 

Guitarjunkie you are correct any manifold will crack when abused. I've got manifolds out there going on five years cars driven hard on the same setup for five years. Same motor same manifold. I'm not trying to win over the guy who can afford this but can't afford mine. I don't try to. As you said I let the quality and my ability to stand behind you should something go wrong speak for my product. None of this takes away from a poorly chosen selection of materials used. Cracked or not cracked they are of cheap quality that is my point. They never fit right without modifying, and I would bet half the guys who put them on their cars don't even have the cars running right. Let alone running good enough to actually put that manifold through its paces. What I don't get is if I sell that manifold I would be shreaded by you guys on how crappy it is, but as long as they are sold by whoever on ebay they are good enough?

 

since when is stainless a bad selection?

 

Stainless has a higher coefficient of expansion, essentially, it moves more at lower temperatures than mild steel, and is, therfore more prone to cracking. This is made worse when people intermix the two, ie a mild steel flange, and SS tube. Don't laugh, I've seen it, even on Products from companies like Stillen( Supra DP). Carl

 

How many manifolds you build?

Pretty pointless question no? Same as above.
How about flanges that are to thin and then need to be machined any way on top of it, or thinner than 16gauge steel on the FC manifold that someone brought in my shop.
What was the need for me to say this to you other than to clarify something you already know.
Type of material is not the issue.

 

take it easy man. i wasn't trying to start an argument.

i dunno about the fc manifolds--i've never used one.

the thin flanges are on the old manifolds. they're something like 3/8" now. and the tubes are about the same thickness of any other manifold you'd buy.

i just wanna see pics of one that actually cracked. especially the newer ones!

 

Hey Guitarjunkie do you have pictures of your ebay manifold that you use or used in your FD
Just curious!
I actually have one and it looks pretty good too.
But I am considering getting something else

 

well....im ordering one this week for my T78 and i will let everyone know how it ends up

 

3/8" still isn't quite good enough. I don't go any lower than 1/2", along with many others. I'd say thats usually the "standard."

-Alex

 

3/8 is fine.

13bnut, i actually bought that manifold for my fc and cut the flange off and welded it back at an angle so the hot side wouldn't bump the LIM. but that car got stolen, so no pics.

 

-Alex

 

ok, show me a warped or in any other way fubar 3/8 flange.

 

Are you ******* kidding?! That is like saying that a 1/4" flange is just fine, just because there isn't pictures of a warped/cracked flange.

Ask any shop about it, and they'll all tell you the same. Just because everyone doesn't have pictures of things, doesn't mean its not true. It's not like I take pictures of everything that I see go wrong.

-Alex

 

i didn't say 1/4", i said 3/8".

all i'm saying is prove it instead of flapping your gums. have you seen one fail or warp?

 

Thats why I said it's like saying that. The whole point behind it was just because I don't have pictures, doesn't mean that 3/8" flanges are ok.

Search around. Hell, go ask a welder. Anywho, please show me how many other companys use 3/8" flanges in turbo exhaust manifolds. If it was ok, I think everyone else would be using them,since it would save $$ and all.

Part of the reason these manifolds don't line up is because 3/8" stainless will warp like hell when trying to weld it. It's usually best to make flanges from 1/2"-5/8" and then bolt a second flange to it, with the same thickness, during welding. It will keep it from warping.

-Alex

 

no, they don't line up because they didn't drill the holes in the right places.

it seems like you're getting pissed off because i asked you to back up what you said.

 

Oh, even better! Did you ever think that they are even worse because the flange is warped?!

No, i'm trying to make you understand what i'm saying. It's irritating because you choose not to listen, and make other claims. Why don't you back up your claim that 3/8" is just fine. You can search around, ask any welder, or a company that builds manifolds, and they will all tell you that 3/8" won't hold up over time.

-Alex

 

dance around the point.

all you had to say was you had no intention of making your accusation valid. talk to a welder...talk to a welder... would i trust some random welder about a rotary specific topic? would you?

i understand what you're saying perfectly, but if you want to convince me it's correct, you'll have to prove it.

i never said 1/2 isn't better than 3/8. keep that in mind.


but still, don't get bitter. let's keep it civil.

 

So in order for a welder to know if 3/8" will warp, he has to know about a rotary engine?! You don't seem to trust Zero R, and he builds manifolds for a living.

I'm trying to direct you to people you can speak with to support my claims. I don't have any pictures, so I have nothing to really show you. However, your choosing not to listen to my experiences, so i'm directing you to people that can show you pictures, and any other proof you'd need. Give a welder a peice of 3/8" stainless, and let him weld on it. You'll see for your own eyes that it'll warp.

I never said that you did. However, why not play it safe, and go with 1/2"? You say that 3/8" is just fine, but there has to be a reason why no one uses it don't ya think? If it's cheaper, and is just fine to use, it'd be used by other companys. Thats a simple fact.

-Alex

 

i agree play it safe if you can.

but i've never seen a problem with a 3/8 flange. you make it seem like they're gonna warp right away and just be a nightmare.

hell, even the 1/4" flange on my crappy manifold didn't warp under even my abuse.

 

QUICK, BUY THIS, BUY THAT, OR YOUR WHOLE WORLD WILL COME TO AN END, OMG YOU DIDN'T BUY BRAND X? YOUR UNDERWEAR WILL NEVER BE WHITE AGAIN



that is about what most of you sound like, Oh and BTW, I have never bought any SS Autochrome stuff, so I am not defending my purchase of it, I just think there is way to much of the Wellmy friends second cousin removed four times **** that goes on in concerns with it, and everytime I ask for proof, I get none. (manifolds, turbo's)(wastegates, I have =seen and measured)

kenn

 

i'm not even defending the ssautochrome stuff.

but are the other stainless manifolds really $700+ worth of better?

 

It really all depends. You can get the flanges, piping, and bends pretty cheap, and go to a welder to have him weld one up for alot cheaper than $700.00. It's not hard at all to figure out what will flow best. It's really common sense. However, if you don't have time for that, then i'd say they are a better choice then the e-bay products.

-Alex

 

better, sure; but cost-to-benefit.

are they gonna last longer, produce any more hp, or spool the turbo any faster?