which Sigle Turbo 400-500 RWHP?
#1
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which Sigle Turbo 400-500 RWHP?
I am now looking into changing my 7 into a single turbo.
I want to have anything between 400-500 hp but also be as realiably
modded as i possibly can!
Which turbo setup do you guys think would be the most reliable and produce
around that amount of horsepower. I can put an LS1 in my car anytime
I want because my stepfather's business is building american muscle cars
so all the labor is free i'd only have to pay for the mounts but I've been thinking
lately, the sole reason i got this car is because Not only its a beautiful speciment
but its rare, and nimble. But lately I haven't been able to sleep because
I keep thinking of my motor blowing. So what do you guys think I should do?
1993 FD R1
stock twins
haltech e6k
A couple of other mods.
RWHP @287 TQ @ 228 ( trying to raise tq any advice?) 10 PSI
I want to have anything between 400-500 hp but also be as realiably
modded as i possibly can!
Which turbo setup do you guys think would be the most reliable and produce
around that amount of horsepower. I can put an LS1 in my car anytime
I want because my stepfather's business is building american muscle cars
so all the labor is free i'd only have to pay for the mounts but I've been thinking
lately, the sole reason i got this car is because Not only its a beautiful speciment
but its rare, and nimble. But lately I haven't been able to sleep because
I keep thinking of my motor blowing. So what do you guys think I should do?
1993 FD R1
stock twins
haltech e6k
A couple of other mods.
RWHP @287 TQ @ 228 ( trying to raise tq any advice?) 10 PSI
#2
Saiga-12 Power!
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A-spec's 500R turbo will get you into that power range. Many other turbos will get your there as well.
Just about every single turbo setup will be more reliable than the problematic and complex stock twin setup. Make sure you have all the supporting mods for going single turbo. You have the haltech already so your set there. Look into upgrading the fuel system and cooling system if you haven't already.
https://www.rx7club.com/spec-tuning-154/spec-500r-508561/
Just about every single turbo setup will be more reliable than the problematic and complex stock twin setup. Make sure you have all the supporting mods for going single turbo. You have the haltech already so your set there. Look into upgrading the fuel system and cooling system if you haven't already.
https://www.rx7club.com/spec-tuning-154/spec-500r-508561/
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You can get all the right components and a good tune, but pop your motor the second that your fuel injectors get too clogged to deliver. Advice is to get a wide band O2 and account for any changes you observe. Tune it towards the rich side and you will have some margin for observation. Tune too close to the edge, and you may not get a chance to address issues before you're forced to do so.
ps- local loudmouth who bashed his rotary at every opportunity, does LS1 swap and goes right out and spins a bearing.
ps- local loudmouth who bashed his rotary at every opportunity, does LS1 swap and goes right out and spins a bearing.
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these are my mods
what do i need?
-Motor rebuilt at ~99k w/ Large Street Port
-Poor mans non sequential Twin Turbo Setup
-Haltech Fully programmable ECU with Data logging
(Laptop for tuning/adjustments provided with sale)
-ACT 6 puck Racing clutch (~11k)
-Toyota Supra Fuel pump
-3” Down Pipe
-3” Mid-pipe with Racing Muffler(Looks like a Catalytic Converter)
-PFS Single Tip Exhaust
-No Catalytic Converter or Air pump
-Dual Oil Coolers
-Short Shifter
-R1 Strut Brace
-HKS Electronic Boost Controller
-Koyo Racing Radiator (~2k)
-Large Greddy Front mount Intercooler (~11k)
-Thrust Dual Intake (~2k)
-Fiberglass hood
-99spec front lip (series 4 front (91-98) JPN (93-95) US with custom fitted 99' spec lights)
-Brembo Cross Drilled and slotted rotors(~2k)
-Optima yellow top Located in Passenger Bin
-Cold Air Duct Head light Cover
-Auto Meter Water temp & PFC Boost Gauge
-Underdrive pulleys
-Detachable face CD Player
-Tires with 80%+ tread on rear Yokohomas 95%+ on Fronts.
-Apexi BOV
-Has Alternator and Battery kill switch for Track.
-10lbs boost.
what do i need?
-Motor rebuilt at ~99k w/ Large Street Port
-Poor mans non sequential Twin Turbo Setup
-Haltech Fully programmable ECU with Data logging
(Laptop for tuning/adjustments provided with sale)
-ACT 6 puck Racing clutch (~11k)
-Toyota Supra Fuel pump
-3” Down Pipe
-3” Mid-pipe with Racing Muffler(Looks like a Catalytic Converter)
-PFS Single Tip Exhaust
-No Catalytic Converter or Air pump
-Dual Oil Coolers
-Short Shifter
-R1 Strut Brace
-HKS Electronic Boost Controller
-Koyo Racing Radiator (~2k)
-Large Greddy Front mount Intercooler (~11k)
-Thrust Dual Intake (~2k)
-Fiberglass hood
-99spec front lip (series 4 front (91-98) JPN (93-95) US with custom fitted 99' spec lights)
-Brembo Cross Drilled and slotted rotors(~2k)
-Optima yellow top Located in Passenger Bin
-Cold Air Duct Head light Cover
-Auto Meter Water temp & PFC Boost Gauge
-Underdrive pulleys
-Detachable face CD Player
-Tires with 80%+ tread on rear Yokohomas 95%+ on Fronts.
-Apexi BOV
-Has Alternator and Battery kill switch for Track.
-10lbs boost.
#6
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how about reliabilty mods? anything else i should get? to make it more reliable
I want to make it "BULLETPROFF"
P-S. Note the part that says "BULLETPROFF" is a joke.
I want to make it "BULLETPROFF"
P-S. Note the part that says "BULLETPROFF" is a joke.
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